Are disc brakes worth the money

[randamospenamos]

hey guys im new to the site and im starting a daily driver restoration on my 69 gmc cst. at the moment im having a hard time shelling out $1500 for a ssbc brake kit is having disc brakes worth the money or is a fresh rebuild on my existing drum brakes enough stopping power for a daily driver.

[71 super]

In a word yes! Take a look at the kits offered by GMC Pauls and CPP as well as early classic all offer great kits and are cheaper than ssbc .

[GRX]

Originally Posted by randamospenamos

hey guys im new to the site and im starting a daily driver restoration on my 69 gmc cst. at the moment im having a hard time shelling out $1500 for a ssbc brake kit is having disc brakes worth the money or is a fresh rebuild on my existing drum brakes enough stopping power for a daily driver.

Yes. I emboldened the important parts for you above. Stopping is nice. Not only do disks help you stop quicker, they don't fade like drums. And lets not forget, when going through deep water it can get trapped in the drum which reduces friction. And since you are more likely to encounter water on the passenger side of the road, it can make the truck pull to the left into traffic. This was the source of many head on collisions back in the olden days. Exactly why it is always good to ride your brakes a little bit right after you go through a puddle to dry them out.

[PanelDeland]

The kits above are cheaper.You can also use the entire front crossmember and suspension from up to 86IIRC.It will probably be about the same $$ if you replace all the wear parts.Brakes,suspension,and steering are no place to scrimp on any build.The rest of it can be wasted because you saved a buck there,not to mention your and others safety and health.

[randamospenamos]

thanks for the advise guys i know better than to go with drum brakes im just a tight wad. lol. i was just going to see if anyone out there is still running drums but i guess i gotta bite the bullet and shell out the dough. is the mustang 2 setup worth a damn?

[stomper]

Ask yourself how many times you've driven thru water above your wheels or experienced 'fade' on your drum brakes in your daily commute. No doubt discs are an upgrade but if the drums are working fine and have a good set of pads I could think of other things I'd rather spend $1500 on. All things being equal, I'd choose discs but I was never afraid to drive a drum brake car.

[GRX]

The truck in my sig still has front drums. I drive it often and would like disks but things I'd rather spend the $ on right now. You just have to drive it differently. Having said that, the truck was in near original condition. I did replace nearly everything that helps make it stop. I take that very seriously. New shoes, hardware, hoses, hard lines, and all 5 cylinders. Can't remember how much total cost was. Made all the lines myself so it was pretty cheap.

[crazy longhorn]

I run a manual dics/drum combo on my old longhorn(all pcs thanks to a dead 75 C-10). My old longhorn will flat haul down to stop better than my 02 silverado , with 4 wheel discs/power & that abs chit. You dont need to spend a bunch of money, on the stoppers....just take it ALL from the donor truck(prop valve, lines & all). Rebuild what needs to be? I would have to do a little figure....but Ill bet that I dont have over 5-600 bones in the brakes(new drums,rotors,rebuilt calipers,new hoses,wheel cyls, shoes & hardware). It all was pirated from a 75 C-10, all the way to the 12 bolt diff, & was a free parts truck? Just fruit for thought....you can pay the man, or do it yourself crazyL

[hugger6933]

Look in the FAQ section there is a post about changing to 6 lug disc using all gm stuff from the light duty 2500 stuff fromm a 88-98 C2500. I have two 70's and a 68 GMC that I am building. the 68 and 1 70 have gotten a 5 lug change over to front discs and the other 70 I will be doing the 6 lug 3/4 ton stuff change in the front as I already have the stuff laying around from truck I have junked. Alos I would like to welcome you to the best board on the net from eastern Arkansas

[gysgtc]

I bought mine from this guy on ebay and I am real happy with it.
http://stores.ebay.com/tomsclassic/C...=p4634.c0.m322

[71 super]

I recommended the GMC paul kit simply because for $550 it is a direct bolt on. You need no extra parts your tie rods and ball joints are reused and simply put other than a prop valve and m/c is all there except the fluid and grease. I converted my 68 using parts from a 72 donor and after buying 6 lug rotors hoses etc, rebuilding or buying new all the components in front end to work with 72 spindles, the kit with spindles would have been money ahead. For the 70 I used Pauls kit and I was literally done with the swap in 2 hours and driving again. Drums are fine, the ones on the 68 stopped fine, but they get out of adjustment and do start to pull. If you are going to jack up the h/p the disc will better serve you because there is nothing worse than going fast and not being able to stop when you want.

[cdowns]

an excellent driver can adapt his driving style to equipment limitations keeping within your limitations is considered safe successfull driving

i've driven probablly a million or so miles on all drum brakes without serious incedent, i tho still prefer high quality disc brakes

[Shyguy]

A lot of people have different opinons on this subject, but it kind of depends on how you drive the truck and your budget. Normal every day driving drum brakes in good shape will work just fine, even manual drums.

If you are pulling trailers power brakes are real a plus, drum or disc.

We are building me a '67 swb stepper and have put all the running gear and suspension on it from my '71 lwb. I bought the '71 for a daily driver quite a few years ago real cheap, $600 if memory serves me.

[Mike C]

Put the discs on it. Don't even think about it. You will never regret having them, but you might regret not. The best mod ever on my '70 3/4 ton GMC big block truck, and the next thing to happen to the '69 short step I have now.

[biggestjohn]

Originally Posted by stomper

Ask yourself how many times you've driven thru water above your wheels or experienced 'fade' on your drum brakes in your daily commute. No doubt discs are an upgrade but if the drums are working fine and have a good set of pads I could think of other things I'd rather spend $1500 on. All things being equal, I'd choose discs but I was never afraid to drive a drum brake car.

While not totally disk brake related, I didn't think traction control was worth the price until I crested the top of a hill and had a car coming at me at 60mph plus in my lane! I had to cram the brakes as hard as I could, and put it in the grass. The car never even squirmed. ( Chrys 300C)

The point being that If you need good brakes, you need them now, not later.

[jhwkns]

Drums stop better, they just don't cool as well. I'm fine with my manual drum brakes. I'm more worried about people running into me.

[PanelDeland]

Most of what has been said is great advice.However I notice you're in Denton.You might as well be in LA.The type of traffic you drive in would make discs a must have for me.You can learn to leave more distance from the truck in front of you,to slow earlier,and to be sure and drive within the limits of your drums.And all that goes out the window as soon as Mr."It's all about me BMW drivin' idiot",comes flying past you and nearly takes your front bumper off darting over in front of you to lock em up.The disc wont save you but they may make the hit he takes a bit softer.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by jhwkns

Drums stop better, ............

First I have heard of this. Drum shoes press outward, the drum expands. Friction is reduced. Caliper pads clamp toward each other.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by GRX

Drum shoes press outward, the drum expands.

I've never had any sort of luck reshaping, bending, or even flexing cast iron.

My old Ford has drums and it'll stop just as fast as my GMC. I've never had a problem with fading either. But whenever I cross a crick, they take awhile to get dry. Especially when it's below zero and the water freezes in the drum. Those are some good times.

[Dingfodgy]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

I've never had any sort of luck reshaping, bending, or even flexing cast iron.

My old Ford has drums and it'll stop just as fast as my GMC. I've never had a problem with fading either. But whenever I cross a crick, they take awhile to get dry. Especially when it's below zero and the water freezes in the drum. Those are some good times.

Truth of the matter is that "taking awhile to get dry" can be a big problem in urban/suburban driving. For those of us who live out in BFE- it's not so much an issue. Bottom line is disc brakes are fundementally superior to drum brakes. They offer higher clamping force, cool better, aren't nearly as affected by moisture, are simpler to maintain and service and are easily upgradeable with larger rotors and multi-piston calipers for even better braking performance. There's not much you can do to improve a drum brake setup beyond keeping them well adjusted and using quality shoes.
Anything I can do to improve the safety of my ride is worth the investment. That being said- I think $1500 for the SSBC is a bit steep. For a little more than half of that you could get the modular 12" setup from CPP.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

I've never had any sort of luck reshaping, bending, or even flexing cast iron.

My old Ford has drums and it'll stop just as fast as my GMC. I've never had a problem with fading either. But whenever I cross a crick, they take awhile to get dry. Especially when it's below zero and the water freezes in the drum. Those are some good times.

Never had a problem with fading? Really? You are lucky. That has not been my experience at all. Having owned GTO's the same model year with stock either front drums or disks, I gotta say drums will fade quick when you are trying to stop at 120-mph at the end of the track. Not near so much with disks.

[steelhorse]

Snag a setup froma 73-79 C10 and save some money.

[mud.man.rj]

All I know is I did a conversion on a 66 Mustang with SSBC front and what a total difference, brakes soooo straight, no more constant adjusting so it wouldn't pull to one side more than another, drums are old tech.

[pat 70/71]

I would recommend you save the money and purchase a disc brake/ booster kit for the front of your truck. That way your truck will stop when you really need it to! Nothing wrong with drum brakes on trailer queens. But if you drive it don't risk the odd chance of someone pulling in front of you and you not being able to stop. I had a 70 1/2 ton, drums all around/ no booster, pulling my boat going down hill and a guy pulled in front of me and I had plenty of time to react but I hit the brakes and they were all in a done with in seconds! I didn't hit the guy but it was toooo close! Don't let this happen to you my friend. cheers Pat

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by GRX

Never had a problem with fading? Really? You are lucky. That has not been my experience at all. Having owned GTO's the same model year with stock either front drums or disks, I gotta say drums will fade quick when you are trying to stop at 120-mph at the end of the track. Not near so much with disks.

WOW, drums that don't fade, not knocking anyone... never experienced THAT!!!

I HATE 4 wheel drum vehicles.

My experience is that they FADE, without doubt. What's worse, is after a small amount of wear on the shoes, they fade WORSE, and it never gets better in the life of the shoes, only WORSE.

I've done 3 complete replacement brake jobs, ALL new parts, inc. M/cyl, same deal..

I have a 67 and 68, they will NOT see the road again w/ 4 wheel drum brakes, life is too short!!!

Stock type disc brakes are all you need, they do an excellent job!!! You don't need anything fancy. I've seen kits the have 6 lug rotors, so that you can keep your stock 6 lug rear axles...