1970 Chevrolet C20 Pickup - Removing and Prevent Rust in Motor Area

[ggalv]

Hi,

There is some rust in some of the metal parts in the motor area. Trying to find out what is the best way to deal with this. Is there something that I can use to remove the rust? Or is removing the rust something more involved and requires someone with more experience with this kind of stuff?

Is there something that I can use to maybe prevent the rust from getting worse? Not sure if I should use WD-40? Spray or apply it with a towel? Or if there something else that is recommended?

Also, I have some jump starters that have rust. I am assuming they are metal, not sure if they have some cooper. How should I go about removing the rust from these

Appreciate your help, thanks.

[geezer#99]

What metal parts?
Not familiar with jump starters.
Pics help.

[dmjlambert]

I recommend posting pictures of what you're dealing with. Removing and cleaning up parts and re-painting is the best bet. Or masking off areas you want to cover prepare the surface and spray paint it.

[ggalv]

I meant jumper cables. Also, the master cylinder was recently restored but it was installed the fluid leaked and caused the corrosion. Appreciate your help.

[ggalv]

Here are two more pictures

[dmjlambert]

The rust won't hurt anything, but you can treat it anyway to beautify. Mine looked similar, and I work on one thing at a time. You will be amazed at how much better the whole engine compartment looks when you pick and item and restore it.

I took the grill and front bumper off my truck, it's just a few bolts, and that gave me some good access to the radiator support. Washed the radiator support with soap and water and a brush, used a drill with wire wheel on some of the more rusted areas. Then masked off the items around it and gave it a coat of gloss rustoleum black spray paint. I removed the headlights so I could access all the nooks and crannies. Then bought a fresh emissions control or tune-up sticker from Classic Industries and stuck it on there.

Same treatment for the air cleaner. Stickers are available. I put a new curved 350 turbo-fire 240 horsepower decal on top. Looks great.

You can take the hood off and take the hinges off and clean them up and paint them and put them back on. If you have patience you can take the hinges off one at a time and prop the hood open with 2x4 lumber between the hood latch on the grill and hood latch on the hood, and put a stick of lumber between the cowl and fender for the hood to rest on while you work on cleaning up and painting a hinge.

There is POR-15 exhaust manifold paint that is the color of cast iron, so if you paint your exhaust manifolds with it they look new. You can paint them in place, but I think it is easier to take them off and paint them and put them back on.

I bought some cast iron color spray paint for the master cylinder.

When I took the steering gear and steering column off for re-sealing and refurb, I gave those the spray paint treatment as well.

I keep plugging away at it.

[dmjlambert]

You can soak the jumper cable clamps in vinegar for a couple of hours, then rinse them off and wipe the rust off, wire wheel them if necessary, and give them a fresh coat of paint except leave the teeth area where it clamps onto the battery terminal free of paint.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I like Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It seals the rust & flows out good & smooth. You can top color it the next day.

George

[GASoline71]

It's all just surface rust. Elbow grease with different grit sandpapers, or scotch-brite pads, drills with wire wheels, 90-degree grinder with wire wheels (use eye protection and a face shield), etc. then primer and paint. The cast iron exhaust manifolds will get hot enough to pretty much burn off anything you put on it anyways, so just leave them alone.

Gary

[PbFut]

Engine bay clean up is a slow labor of love. You disassemble a deep as you want to go. Then clean your parts with solvent or soaps. Wire brush and clean some more. Then use paint of choice. Rustoleum products work quite well and provide a respectable overall finished look. Eastman has a nice gray phosphate paint for hinges and hood release. Remember that anything you paint will make surrounding parts look worse. It becomes a rabbit hole of sorts.

[ggalv]

Thank you, appreciate your advice.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Engine bay clean up is a slow labor of love. You disassemble a deep as you want to go. Then clean your parts with solvent or soaps. Wire brush and clean some more. Then use paint of choice. Rustoleum products work quite well and provide a respectable overall finished look. Eastman has a nice gray phosphate paint for hinges and hood release. Remember that anything you paint will make surrounding parts look worse. It becomes a rabbit hole of sorts.

It’s not Eastman, it’s Eastwood.
Lots of stuff in their site including some cast iron paint that doesn’t flake off the exhaust manifolds.


https://www.eastwood.com/

[HO455]

There dozens of opinions on what process to use. Are you looking for short term prevention until a restoration or long term fix?

Personally operating under a budget and wanting a longer term solution. I would remove things like the hinges, hood latch, battery tray to clean and wire brush them. Followed by soaking in vinegar. Before painting neutralize the parts.

For large items like the core support I likely would clean and wire brush in place then treat the parts with Ospho. After 24 hours re-apply Ospho and then rinse with water. Once dry paint with your choice of paint.

Lots of information on both of these processes on the interweb.

[ggalv]

Right now, was looking for a short term prevention. But also appreciate the advice being given regarding more long term fix. Using vinegar has been recommended, would that be 5% acidity typically sold at food stores?

[dmjlambert]

Yes plain white vinegar.