Fuel regulator mounting

[Inverter]

Wondering if I could mount my regulator as the pics show? Would the hanging weight of the regulator,press.gauge and attached filter/braided lines cause stress on the hard line inlet fittings w/engine vibration causing leaks?
Any advice is appreciated,thank you,~T.

[ulakovic22]

With hard lines and a small regulator I wouldn't think so, but they make regulator mounts that you bolt on using the carb bolts so I don't see why you wouldn't use them.

[Inverter]

Yea, I have the carb mount for the reg.but doesnt workout w/the hard lines.My hard lines were prebent and wont reach the reg. when mounted w/the brackeacket,,,Line came w/the bracket,go figure..I might have to make something.

[fastwillie 696969]

i always put mine lower than the carbs

[Inverter]

Originally Posted by 70blowngmc

i always put mine lower than the carbs

This being my 1st real hot rod,I didnt know where to put it but saw there was these billet brackets that mounted on the carb studs.Im not sure if I even need a regulator but figured it looked cool. Anyway,,the brackets sold do place the reg. right about where my pics show it. Is there a reason for having it below the carb?

[Inverter]

couldnt sleep on it so I came up w/something. Switched to a braided inlet line and used a piece of the original bracket. I feel this will work and the look has better semetry.

[ulakovic22]

Looks nice, you using teflon tape on your threads or something else?

[Inverter]

Thanks,
Some of the AN fittings recommend you not use tape but a liquid thread sealant. I have some Jegs thread sealant in a tube for the final assembly.Ive never used anything but teflon tape before,,not sure if you squirt on the liquid sealer and tighten or use a diff. technique.

[ulakovic22]

Pretty sure it's applied to the threads and then installed. Similar to loctite or antiseize.

[Alex1]

The liquid sealer , put a nice bead all around some of the threads, thread it in and that's it.

[Alex1]

Why the 2" spacer?

[383Ram]

The only thread sealer that should be used is a paste type ( i use a permetex product, 765-1188 i believe is the NAPA number). BUT, the sealer should only be used on pipe thread connections such as those going into the regulator.
DO NOT use it on the flared connections.

The -AN fittings (37 degree flares) as well as SAE (45 degree flares--such as brake lines and such) are meant to seal on the flareing surface only. The threads only make the connection--not the seal. On -AN flared connections---especially with aluminum fittings, a light oil should be used sparingly on the threads to prevent gaulling of the threads.

If i misunderstood what you are using the sealer for, i am sorry. They way i was reading seemed like you were headed in the wrong direction. Just a little FYI, as i have seen sealer used in many places were it should not be used.

[Inverter]

Originally Posted by Alex1

Why the 2" spacer?

It was given to me some time back and I just put it in place.Im not sure what the spacers even do.Im just dry fitting everything while Im waiting to get back my trans. from the shop. Are there any performance gains to be had from a 2"spacer ? What would you sudgest instead?

Originally Posted by 383Ram

The only thread sealer that should be used is a paste type ( i use a permetex product, 765-1188 i believe is the NAPA number). BUT, the sealer should only be used on pipe thread connections such as those going into the regulator.
DO NOT use it on the flared connections.

The -AN fittings (37 degree flares) as well as SAE (45 degree flares--such as brake lines and such) are meant to seal on the flareing surface only. The threads only make the connection--not the seal. On -AN flared connections---especially with aluminum fittings, a light oil should be used sparingly on the threads to prevent gaulling of the threads.

If i misunderstood what you are using the sealer for, i am sorry. They way i was reading seemed like you were headed in the wrong direction. Just a little FYI, as i have seen sealer used in many places were it should not be used.

I was meaning to only use the thread sealant on the npt fittings. I have that one on the bottom of the reg. and 2 more on the fuel pump. I hadnt heard of using an oil on the aluminum threads.I did tear up threads on an aluminum npt fitting trying to dry fit it. Ruined the threads.
What is this oil you sudjest for a/n fitting threads?

[383Ram]

You can use a 10w30 or similar oil, even a little lighter is ok--just something on there. Something that basically wont get in the way but will stick to the surfaces.

Also, make sure you oil the threads of the fitting when assembleing -AN fittings into hoses. Pushloc stuff i just use something real light like WD40. On regular -AN stuff i use some 10w30 in a squirt can i have. It does two things, makes it easier to assemble, and later on if you need to make new hoses, it comes apart alot easier also and doesnt wreck the fittings so they can be reused.

[Inverter]

Great,
I can use tips like these.I was having a hell of a time assembling hoses w/o tearing up the fittings. I will try these things. Thanks for the advice.

[383Ram]

Here is how i assemble hoses, as learned from two different hose making business that are local to me.

First, i usually put the fittings on the parts they need to go on. Then i take hose and measure the distance. If you are useing the standard red and blue fittings (it'll just be easier to explain with these, but other two piece fittings are the same) , just measure to between the red part of the fittings--where the red and blue parts meet. Depending on how brand name your fittings are, you may see a little line near the top of the red end on the hex part---this is where the hose really ends in the fitting. I also use the hose to make my measurements because you can get an idea of where you may want some extra for clearance around items or for vibration or around obsticles.

Once you get an idea of your length of hose, assemble one fitting onto the hose. We'll assume at this point that you have a clean cut end to start with. While carfully holding the end of the hose so as not to get poked with the stainless wire, carefully install the red end onto the hose using a twisting motion---it also helps to slightly push in the end of the hose on itself while inserting the red end so the stainless wire mesh doesnt try and fold back on itself. Once you get the red end on all the way, take some masking or electrical tape and wrap it around the hose, up against the red fittining---this will be important for later.

Now, lube the threads of the blue end with some motor oil, and put a little on the threads of the red end and inside of the hose, then-- while holding the hose near the red end (do not hold onto the red end itself) insert the blue end into the red end and screw on to get it started by hand.

I HIGHLY recommend getting aluminum -AN vise jaws. These are magnetic and stick onto a standard size vise(usually a six inch vise). These keep from marring your fittings and are specifically made for assembleing hoses. If you are not getting the vise jaws, wrap the fitting several times tightly with masking or eklectrical tape--like 8-10 times to keep from marring the finish. Now put the red end into the jaws and tighten the vise. Now use an appropriate wrench and tighten the blue end to meet up with the red end. You want it to meet so the is no gap between the two or no more than 1/16" gap between the two. A tip here, they do sell aluminum wrenches, for assembling, i like to use a regular steel wrench, where i dont stop and reset the wrench while turning--i just put it on the blue side and keep turning---you can also line the inside of the wrench with masking tape to keep from scratching the fittings.

I feel the aluminum wrenches will eventually stretch and wear from the pulling of assembly and thus are not sutible for assembly. I do feel however they are great if you intend to unhook your lines often as they do keep from marring the fittings.

Now, this is important. Remember the tape you put on the hose just below the red fitting? As you are tightening the blue end, make sure the hose does not push out of the red end. A little is ok, i say no more than a 1/8" though. The only way you will know if its happening is by using the tape as an indicator, so i HIGHLY recommend you dont skip this step.

Once you get one end on, i feel it is a good idea to put the hose and fittings back on the car and double check your measurement of length. Now that you have the length right, take some masking or electrical (preferred) and wrap it tightly around the hose where you will be cutting it. This keeps the braided mesh from going haywire and frying. I personally feel the best method to cut the hoses are a cut off wheel for metal--whether it be a dremal tool, a die grinder, a electric grinder or a chop saw. This is the least damaging method and the cleanest cut you can get---just make sure the cut off wheel is meant for metal. Alternatly, the next best is using a fine tooth hacksaw blade, but some frying is almost inevetiable. Once cut, unwrap the tape and assemble your other end onto the hose as you did before.

I then take some brake kleener and spray it through the hose to wash any debris and oil out, lightly oil the end fitting threads and install.

My only other tip i can think of for now is, i use swivel fittings. They are more expensive, but you dont have to worry where the fitting ends up on the hose when made or kinking the hose when assembling trying to get the fittings to line up. If you are not using swivel fittings, you must make indexing markes on the hos and fitting so when you assemble them they line up like you want them too---so spend a little extra and save some aggrivation, get the swivel fittings.

[383Ram]

And to answer your original question, the regulator is fine where it is. You want it close to the carb as possible, not off on a fenderwell, where you can get a pressure drop between the regulator and carb.

[85sqbdy]

With a well planned fuel system you won't have any issues. I'm running mine on the fenderwell and do not have pressure drop problems. I run a return style electric pump from Chuck Nuytten. 460gph, 10AN from pump to Holley big port regulator, 8AN to carb. I have a pressure guage on the pump outlet, one at the inlet on the regulator, one on each line to the carb, and liquid filled guages in the dash. It'll go wide open with no pressure drop.

[Inverter]

Thank you 383,
Ive been trying to assemble the hoses w/o the propper wrenches and not using a clamp. I did,however,order some a/n wrenches and an a/n vice fitting clamp. I have been using the swivel fittings,I also like that theres no binding of the hose w/them. I have more hoses to build and will try using your method as well as my new tools. Its funny,I knew there were a/n wrenches and a fitting clamp but thought I could do it w/an adjust. wrench and some painters tape...Now that I know better I will do better.

Thank you for sharing your experience w/a beginner.

[383Ram]

'85sqbdy, My only beef with your particular set up as applied to NHRA rules is that the regulator is mounted on the firewall. They dont like to see this incase of a trans explosion or flywheel explosion as there would be a great chance of busting the lines and regulator and having fuel eveywhere. For that matter, technically, any fuel lines that pass the bellhousing/torque converter area need to be shielded--i believe it 1/8" or thicker steel caseing---i have used a piece of pipe welded to a frame rail---or run the lines outside the frame rail in that area.

Also, just wondering, where is your pressure gauge tapped into? Is it on a fitting right before the carb? Or a line coming out of the regulator? Even if its not next to the carb(although its not my personal favorite to see it tapped into anywhere else), The fact you have no pressure drop out of the reg at WOT is very good. And yea, for dedicated carbed performance use, the big holley reg is awesome.

My turbo Dart i had used a #12 feed to the pump, #10 to the reg, #10 return, and #6 to the carb. The reg was mounted off the front of the intake, i had an Areomotive A1000 pump and Areomotive return style regulator---awesome stuff they make.

But in my opinion, for a regular performance street car with a carb, #8 line is adaquate to plumb a system with from pump to reg ---and as long as the reg is near the carb, #6 from the reg to the carb is plenty

[LostMy65]

I was wondering if we could get some more routing options pics.

I found these so far:

[LostMy65]

Here's another:

Originally Posted by 78 Chevyrado

I have an edelbrock 1406 and use this regulator with it
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12-803/10002/-1?CT=999

It works perfectly.
Here's how I mounted mine




I put a gauge in the bypass side or you could just plug it.
Don't mind the rubber line from the pump to the regulator. It's worked so far but when I redo the engine soon, it will have a steel line up to about the carb and then turn out and go up to the regulator with some fuel injection hose so i can still mount the filter where it is.

[Captainfab]

I don't have a pic handy, but I can get one for you tomorrow, of a regulator and gauge mounted directly to the inlet of a Edelbrock carb.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't have a pic handy, but I can get one for you tomorrow, of a regulator and gauge mounted directly to the inlet of a Edelbrock carb.

Thanks.

I'll keep an eye out for your post.

[LostMy65]

Found another pic