Lowering Regrets

[cebra]

I recently put a 2.5" drop spindle, 2" springs, lowered shocks on the front along with 40 series tires on 20's. I replaced all wear items (steering and suspension) and got a quite pricey dynamic alignment. I did a 5" springs, shock relocators, new shocks, and adjustable track bar with 50 series tires on 20's in the rear. It looks really good; it is made to be a daily driver though and it rides horribly. I can feel every crack in the road, it clangs, it bangs, (both front and rear), I can't get in and out of driveways, I have maybe an inch max before I am into the bumps front and rear, I am tucking tires all around. This is all my opinion on my vehicle but I hate it and wish I had not lowered it and stuck with my 15" rallys. Now I am trying to figure out how to get it back to as stock as possible without changing the spindles and having to pull the spring relocators/adjustable track bar (because I don't have them for various reasons). Thinking 16" rallys, stock front springs on the 2.5" drop spindles, 3" rear drop springs, and new front shocks may get me closer for the least amount of money. This was all my own doing but wanted to post a differing opinion for folks that may be on the fence about lowering their trucks.

[Killer Bee]

sorry to hear that..

some of us know we love lowered trucks
some of us know we hate lowered trucks
some of us are in the middle and sometimes learn the hard way

only suggestion I have to consider..

if it's not an heirloom or otherwise sentimental truck, consider selling and buying another stock one?

with all the money and time wrapped up in this one, maybe cut your losses and move into another truck..

of course I don't know the model, options, or any other details about it.. but that's what I would do if I made a mistake on something I bought..

good luck!

[Mbeef61]

I think you are on the right track if you want a change. Put the stock front springs back on. A little less drop in the rear. And more tire sidewall should all help. See how that goes. You may be getting into the bumpstops where you are at now. Maybe get shorter ones and see what happens.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by cebra

I recently put a 2.5" drop spindle, 2" springs, lowered shocks on the front along with 40 series tires on 20's. I replaced all wear items (steering and suspension) and got a quite pricey dynamic alignment. I did a 5" springs, shock relocators, new shocks, and adjustable track bar with 50 series tires on 20's in the rear. It looks really good; it is made to be a daily driver though and it rides horribly. I can feel every crack in the road, it clangs, it bangs, (both front and rear), I can't get in and out of driveways, I have maybe an inch max before I am into the bumps front and rear, I am tucking tires all around.

The harshness comes from lower profile tires, (which in my opinon you have to get use to, because you don't have giant sidewall 15" tires anymore)

You mention nothing about making room for suspension travel.
You have limited the room between moving parts, so you have to open up some room so parts don't bottom out. (your words,... "rides horribly)

Up front you remove the rubber bump stops and the stands they mount on.
I leave part of the steering top for the spindle to contact.
The rear you also need to remove the rubber bump stop and add a c-notch if you want even more travel.
I would start with just removing the bump stop and adding a shorter version like Energy Suspension sells.

If you don't have a front sway bar,... you need one.
This will help with body roll.
Take some pics of your current set up (the suspension) not the truck.

My 2wd blazer bottomed out a lot until I added a rear c-notch. It's like driving a different blazer.
Its bagged now, so that's a whole different conversation.

[rjs53]

I have the 4/6 drop on mine, very happy with the set up. 20's with 245/45 front and 295/40 on rear,front sway bar and C notch. I think it rides pretty good, not to rough and not alot of roll when hitting a corner. My idea of smooth and yours are different but I'm happy. Good luck

[cebra]

Originally Posted by Mbeef61

I think you are on the right track if you want a change. Put the stock front springs back on. A little less drop in the rear. And more tire sidewall should all help. See how that goes. You may be getting into the bumpstops where you are at now. Maybe get shorter ones and see what happens.

I believe my options are:
1. 2.5" spindles, stock springs, 3" rear springs, 20's with 50's on front (I think this may look bad to me due to wheel gap/fat front tires)
2. 2.5" spindles, stock springs, 3" rear springs, 16" rallyes (16" rallyes are expensive)
3. 2" springs, stock spindles, 3" rear springs, 15" rallyes (will still be on bumps in front)
4. all stock with 15" rallyes (I would need to rebuy everything, ouch)

Selling my truck over my suspension screw up isn't feasible as I am $25K into this (SWB conversion/LS swap/new everything).

[Mbeef61]

Start cheap and work your way up. You can find stock front springs easy and cheap. You can remove bump stops easy. You can find used rear springs pretty cheap and easy. If that doesn’t work start on tires wheels etc.

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by cebra

Selling my truck over my suspension screw up isn't feasible as I am $25K into this (SWB conversion/LS swap/new everything).

ooof! I hear ya.. reading this sight unseen is difficult to tell what's going on..

good luck straightening it all out!

[cebra]

Up front you remove the rubber bump stops and the stands they mount on.
I leave part of the steering top for the spindle to contact.

Can you elaborate further on this (the second part)? My clanging in the front is coming from my spring compressing too much and the coils banging against each other...you can hear the sort of recoil/reverberating sound of the coil clanging almost like when I hit a bump the control arms are separating leaving the spring "hanging in mid air" and then slamming back down on it sort of clang. The bang is from the back where I suspect I am smashing the bumps/hitting the frame. I do have a front sway bar. Bigger front tires may be the way to go as well, the 50's look huge on the back so perhaps 45 is a better option although my tires are pretty tucked already in the front. Is it feasible to trim the rear mounts down a bit?

I need to weigh it though whether I want to go further down the lowered path or bite the bullet and sell everything/return to stock. I drive 25K+ miles a year and the feasibility of DDing this truck is not good as I feel I need to really baby it.

[Mbeef61]

Pics would help a lot

[TruDom]

like everyone else is saying... pull the bump stops out before doing anything else. It cost nothing and gives you another 1.5" travel.

i have a 4/6 drop and find it great to drive. (although my daily is an accord so im used to tighter suspension/handling)

[cebra]

Not really close ups of the suspension compressed or anything but what I am working with.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TruDom

like everyone else is saying... pull the bump stops out before doing anything else. It cost nothing and gives you another 1.5" travel

This is a good 1st step. It should eliminate some of the noises your hearing and bottom out less.

Another option is a 17” rim and tire combo, you will have lots of tire options (bigger sidwalls), plus, the cost would be offset when you sell the 20’s. American racing makes a 17 inch rally wheel that looks great.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by cebra

Up front you remove the rubber bump stops and the stands they mount on.
I leave part of the steering top for the spindle to contact.

Can you elaborate further on this (the second part?

If your coil spring is banging the coils together they are too soft.
Here’s a picture of the lower a-arms I modify.

[lolife99]

Also what brand of lowering components did you use.
Your truck doesn’t look that low,...

[Overdriven]

never mind

[67_C-30]

I hated my first lowered truck until I removed the bump stops as well.

[Ganty101]

If you’re already that far in why not add air ride???

[Andy4639]

Buy you some helper bags like mine by air lift. Installed on all 4 corners and you will love the way it rides. I'm so pleased with how it drives I have never installed my air bags I have. I bought a complete system and never have installed it.

I have the fronts at 20lbs. I installed shrader valve in the front spoiler to pump them up when I need to add air.
I have the back hooked to a compresser and can fill them from the cab if need be. I run 20 lbs in them when nothing in the bed. My truck never bottoms out and I have no c notch in the rear.
Best part is you don't have to take anything loose they will go in with the truck jacked up between the coils.
I'm telling you you will never look back after doing it.

[cebra]

I removed the front bumps, I had maybe a finger gap with the bumps. It is clanging a lot more now...reverberating like hitting a gong. The rear is sitting on the bumps so I couldn't get those out yet but it is bottoming out in the rear so I know my options there (raise it or c-notch it).

I will mess with it but in general this thread was my opinion that I regret going SWB/lowered/big wheels which cost me $5.4K. I personally thought the truck looked better LWB at stock height on Rallyes and was significantly more driveable.

If I put stock spindles back on the front so I can run 15" Rallyes (I like the Rallye wheels much better than my 20's) and keep the lowered springs, I wonder if it will still clang constantly or if the taller sidewall will help absorb cracks/bumps better? I can't run 15" Rallyes on my lowered spindles (they drag really bad) and I think SWB at stock height look tall/short.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Also what brand of lowering components did you use.
Your truck doesn’t look that low,...

Front:
CPP 2" Springs
McCaughy 2.5" Spindles
Belltech shocks (these fit like crap btw they are too fat so they have to be spaced out significantly from the frame)

Rear:
CPP 5" springs
CPP adjustable trac bar
CPP shock relocators
KYP Gas a just shocks

[MySons68C20]

[QUOTE=lolife99;8544648]Also what brand of lowering components did you use.
Your truck doesn’t look that low,...[/QUOT

My ECE (Early Classic) stock front springs w/2.5" drop spindles and their 4" drop springs in the back = no rubbing/banging and rides great.
I am running original replacement stops front and back too.

[TruDom]

Originally Posted by cebra

I removed the front bumps, I had maybe a finger gap with the bumps. It is clanging a lot more now...reverberating like hitting a gong. The rear is sitting on the bumps so I couldn't get those out yet but it is bottoming out in the rear so I know my options there (raise it or c-notch it).

I will mess with it but in general this thread was my opinion that I regret going SWB/lowered/big wheels which cost me $5.4K. I personally thought the truck looked better LWB at stock height on Rallyes and was significantly more driveable.

If I put stock spindles back on the front so I can run 15" Rallyes (I like the Rallye wheels much better than my 20's) and keep the lowered springs, I wonder if it will still clang constantly or if the taller sidewall will help absorb cracks/bumps better? I can't run 15" Rallyes on my lowered spindles (they drag really bad) and I think SWB at stock height look tall/short.

something just doesnt sound right. sitting on bumps in rear?

i have same setup 4/6 drop (from ECE) with 20" wheels and have never bottomed out even hauling stuff in the bed. no c-notch. have scraped the long tube headers on the ground because they hang lower than everything.

good luck friend. id recommend replacing the springs with taller ones from ECE maybe 1/3 or 2/4 drops instead. at only 114/pair i'd think they would perform better opposed to putting stock springs back in that have a lot of wear on them. but it's your money/truck. sucks to feel burned with what you have done.

[lolife99]

Can the OP of this thread post some suspension pics?
It sounds like you are hitting the bumpstop metal stand now.
That's why I say remove them.
Also CPP springs have been known to sag way too soon.
Removing your drop spindles will not solve this issue.

Also,... why can't you put your rally wheels on now?

[Dwyert4]

I have 2 1/2" spindles and 1" drop springs and drop shocks on front and 4" springs and drop shocks on the rear with 22" transits.( lower profile tire now) and it's a good ride with space between bump stops. I agree that a c notch would definitely help for the rear. But to keep the sidewall I think for that drop without a lot of work, smaller wheels or bags. Nice truck by the way.