Starting the overall replacement of front suspension today :-) drop time.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Replacing front spindle, brakes, caliper, shocks and springs, brake lines, prop, master. The PO replaced all before with new bushings, spindle, etc... New I still have original rotors on that look great I will have them turned until I get replacements. I still havent decided on a set that will match my wilwood d154 set up, any suggestions? Think I will be adding a more performance driven mood to my truck. Just got this 71 gmc c15 few months back and with is is my first wack at her. Belltech and wilwood makes some quality pieces if anyone is concerned or interested in the same all my parts came from them besides the 4" rear drop leaves from ece. Brake lines and braided components came from thestopshop on amazon, great people to work with and you can not beat their prices. I will be putting up pics as I progress one side at a time amd move to rear late next week. 4" drop should be done on front by weekend. If anyone is looking to do a front rear disk swap and needs spindle etc... I will be getting rid of them. They are in great shape. Spindles are coated I think, will update as i go.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Making progress.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Got everything off on passengers side that will be replaced, have the upper and lower control arms cleaned up and spraying some vinegar water on with a hint of krud cutter to convert any remaining rust before I spray some rustoleum rust reformer on, 2 coats. Ball joints are new so I will shoot some grease in them before install. I left them on, I know some people remove but I rather not have to press the lower back in as nice as it is. I will be removing master and prop next and bend my lines because there is easy access to where they are with everything removed. I will keep posting pics amd updates as I progres, any tips shoot them my way.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

When the rust is black it is not coming back, for a while anyways.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

If anyone wants to know a good rust killer my mix is 10oz white vinegar, 15oz water, and 2oz of krud kutter must for rust. Put in spray bottle keep parts damp with it for 2 hrs or more depending on your rust. Will turn black. Cost is about $6 total from Wal-Mart. This works if anyone is interested. Rinse with water and wipe off surface rust your good to go. I spray suspension parts with a rust reformer also afterwards and top coat it afterwards. Always has worked well.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

So after the 160 views and not a single comment I finished at 11pm. Rustoleum rust reformer with a vht chassis stain top coat. Heating the arms up between coats and after top coat with a heater seems to help paint application, I feel as if they look good. Got this far after 8hrs today. Had to go get pickle fork for tie rod, and went ahead and got some line wrenches from harbor frieght. Ball joints poped out fine with some PB blaster and a 3lb hammer, I wacked the side of bottom joint on spindle for lower and hit bottom of spindle to relase upper. Starting passengers side tomorrow and pulling brake lines, and make some coat hanger templates to test final fit. I might get to master, prop and booster removal, any tips guys? This is my first time doing this on a truck as old as mine and I have never done a full suspension upgrade at once. So far it is going well and want to thank all you guys on the forums for your input. I have learned a lot on the steps simply reading here. Great community.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

If anyone wants to know a good rust killer my mix is 10oz white vinegar, 15oz water, and 2oz of krud kutter must for rust. Put in spray bottle keep parts damp with it for 2 hrs or more depending on your rust. Will turn black. Cost is about $6 total from Wal-Mart. This works if anyone is interested. Rinse with water and wipe off surface rust your good to go. I spray suspension parts with a rust reformer also afterwards and top coat it afterwards. Always has worked well.

Interesting. I've been using just white vinegar and dash of water that feels right. But I still have to brush everything off. You saying you don't have to do that, comes pretty well clean where there's no metal damage (i.e., pitting)? If so, I may have to get that crud kutter.



Nice job on that suspension OP. I have to pull mine yet. That's coming soon, it's near all that's left on the frame.

[weq92f]

Nice work! The other side should go even better now!

-klb

[71sierragrande]

Great tips! Those control arms look new out of the box. Interested in your opinion of the drop leaf springs, Im debating purchasing those myself.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I use that mix as a converter for pits and any junk I can not get. Yes krud kutter the must for rust at walmart. Works great for heavy applications as well. Simply more of the krud cutter and make a strong mix of kk, water, vinegar and dip item in it while you sleep. I use a wire wheel on my drill or a wire brush before the treatment for few min to remove heavy flaking. KK has phosphoric acid in it which does convert rust and remove it as well. It is not a supper strong mix, tends to be a more user friendly rust remover. so I use it with vinegar and water to make the job easy. I shoot the parts with some rustoleum rust reformer to help finish any pits I may have missed. Kk will etch the metal if you leave it submersed in a mix with only water for to long.

[54blackhornet]

Nice write up ! Keep up the great work, also interested in the leaf springs you mention upgrading

[PaPaStewySnipes]

They will be here in a few hours if fed ex is not late. I am going to wait on right side suspension and go ahead and pull booster/master, I'm sore folks I did everything so far in one day even the paint on control arms. I have new wilwood master and adj prop, going to run new lines I need to do that before drivers side suspension is bolted up because lines run to a T and union by the header in a tight spot. As for the booster I will replace the vac nipple in the front and give it a good black paint job if possible. I did the booster test with car on and off seems to work fine however pitted and nasty. As for taking it off, I havent removed a booster before I simply want to paint the brackets and booster black, or look for a factory looking replacement.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

This pin right here, this all I have to undo besides front bracket nuts to remove booster, be sure to not loose tiny clip commponets. I need a new air filter while I am at it. What PO put in before is one of those washable eldgebrock filter setup. Going to take a water hose it, I know it looks filthy. Later on I will go under brade pedal and remove pin to remove rest of booster bracket assembly and shaft, refinish bracket and any parts needing to be replaced. I will be looking for the rubber grommet for where push rod goes through firewall. Will check "help" area in autoparts store locally for a suitable replacement.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

I use that mix as a converter for pits and any junk I can not get. Yes krud kutter the must for rust at walmart. Works great for heavy applications as well. Simply more of the krud cutter and make a strong mix of kk, water, vinegar and dip item in it while you sleep. I use a wire wheel on my drill or a wire brush before the treatment for few min to remove heavy flaking. KK has phosphoric acid in it which does convert rust and remove it as well. It is not a supper strong mix, tends to be a more user friendly rust remover. so I use it with vinegar and water to make the job easy. I shoot the parts with some rustoleum rust reformer to help finish any pits I may have missed. Kk will etch the metal if you leave it submersed in a mix with only water for to long.

Awesome thanks. I didn't know it had phosphoric acid. I'll score some for sure, follow your recipe.

If you're ever concerned about that acid BTW, I was just mentioning a baking soda bath. I use it with distilled water. It will leave the part fully black, or more a dark gray, but that comes off easily with a brush or scouring pad. That's how I do it anyway. I'm going to finish everything in bulk, or so is the plan.

You move pretty fast, BTW.

Not sure I can answer your question about that pin (aka push rod), but I would say yes, disconnect that rod to remove the booster, because it's part of it. If you need too many notes on that top end , or anything else brake, I've got them. Don't forget to trigger the "primer button" on your combination valve when you bleed the brakes, assuming that's your application. I bled my brakes once, didn't know anything about it. I had brakes anyway, but I understand I did it wrong.

Also per one of our members, for a newly installed booster: "Depress the pedal while the engine is off to use up the vacuum. Hold the pedal and start the engine. The pedal should drop 1-2 inches if the booster is good."

[PaPaStewySnipes]

That will neutralize the acid before paint. Thanks for mentioning, a little baking soda and water after you use the mix is a important step I forgot to mention, that is exactly what I did. I used purple power to clean before the converter mix, it is just as inportant to have old oil and dirt off for best results. The KK is only $4 at walmart for 8oz and works well.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Got the bad boys in. 4" drop leafs from ece. One of the bushings was knocked in and beat up on the sleeve but it is repairable. This is a nice set and yes made in the USA. I will have installed by next weekend along with rear disk brakes. Getting back to work on the front after a day of rest.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well today I got the brake lines off. Master, prop and booster removed as well. Looking at my booster I can refinish it glossy black, add new vac nipple and boot and it will look new. However I'm using everything else new on the brake system. Autozone has reman Delco boosters with the factory gold plated finish for $86, I called to check and put it on hold. Most of the time they are finished gray. I'm tempted to simply go grab a remain unit for the local auto parts store and use a 20% off coupon, anyone have experience using the remain Delco boosters for AutoZone... Etc. It is listed as a A1 cardone reman unit. Soon I will be ready to fab some brake lines.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well simply went out and bought new booster from AutoZone. Some how I got lucky and got the cad plated booster out of the bunch. $93 out the door and kept my old rod that contacts the factory master. I will be making a thin gasket where with master flange meets booster threads, the factory set had one similar that sealed it up nice. Any tips throw them at me.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Will be using factory rod with new o ring on new booster, should give me about 3/8" till I contact master when brake pedal is pushed. Removed booster bracket will refinish it gloss black to match master and button this part up. My replacement booster fits well and looks nice. Still haven't got around to bending me some nicop lines yet. So this little project has turned into me replacing and refinishing everything that needs it while I am in the area. So far going well no issues.

[Indyspecracer]

Nice work! I'm enjoying following along. A 4 - 6 drop is upcoming for my 69 C10 SWB.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Thanks, I'm working on bracket at this very moment have one side of bracket soaking in my mix bath and tiny parts soaking in purple power. I work a lot at night when son is getting to bed. So what you got going with on the drop as for parts.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Looking good Papastewy.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Looking good Papastewy.

Thanks, any suggestions throw them my way.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I have about 1/8" gab till rod engages master, perfect. Some how I got lucky. Went to pickup a reman a1 cardone booster from AutoZone, think they gave me a new one different brand I didnt ask questions because when I saw it while holding my Delco pulled out the tape and had a perfect match , the one I should have got is gray. The rod that came with it magicly worked perfect for my wilwood master no issues, bolted up perfect to brackets A+. I tested my factory booster with wilwood master prior to picking up I didnt have enough play, it was as if when I pushed on back shaft of booster to force rod into master it was already engaged against master... I felt no play. Well lucky me got a new rod 1/8" shorter than my factory rod in my Delco booster, that is what about you need so there is no preload on master. Brackets are cooking and look good have a supper shine ill see if I like it, all components have been restored up to brake pedal however I still need firewall boot.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Update, have it together looks nice, haven't attached prop on yet because I have to bench bleed master. Has anyone done it while master is attached to the truck, I have bleed kit with hoses. This whole setup was about $380. Has a nice factory look to it. Simular setup goes around $550 so my price matching and good luck on booster, and some black gloss enamel gave me a nice setup. If anyone is interested booster I got was from AutoZone part# 54-71125 came with both rods perfect length to match up with wilwood master and foot pedal assembly.