04-16-2003, 11:00 PM | #1 |
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Raised bed floor
Next, I'm going to do a 11 or 12 gauge bed floor with 5 bead rolls in it, then I can squirt the whole thing with a spray-in bed liner.
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04-16-2003, 11:02 PM | #2 |
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and...
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04-16-2003, 11:34 PM | #3 |
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Kennith - keep me posted on this please. I need to do something with mine and not sure what that is. I've already started raising the floor but not sure what to finish it in. Is that floor frame made with? 2x2?
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04-16-2003, 11:47 PM | #4 | |
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Oh, and you need a plex floor so people can appreciate all that rear suspension work! Kenneth
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04-17-2003, 10:55 AM | #5 | ||
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04-17-2003, 11:11 AM | #6 | |
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04-17-2003, 12:33 PM | #7 |
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That's going to be cool. How thick will the spray in bedliner be? You don't think that it will hide the bead rolls do you?
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04-17-2003, 12:49 PM | #8 |
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Looking at his plan, the rolls are going to be 1" wide - not sure how tall. I would think they would still show. I guess there going to be there to stiff'n up the panel as well as for looks.
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04-17-2003, 03:38 PM | #9 |
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Standard thickness bedliner will allow the bead rolls to show fine.It shows the raised ridges in the new beds so it should just follow the contours.
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04-17-2003, 05:40 PM | #10 |
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what brand liner are you going with? Nortons is good stuff
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04-17-2003, 07:09 PM | #11 | ||
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Quote:
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Kenneth
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04-17-2003, 07:39 PM | #12 |
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looks like you have plenty of room in there to work on the truck..heh
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04-18-2003, 01:00 PM | #13 |
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sup kenneth, looking good on the progress. any info on the tailgate latches etc?
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04-18-2003, 01:13 PM | #14 | |
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Latches are like the ones here. There's a tech article on it here. Once I get the bed floor done, I can start on the bed cover. It will be a hard cover that latches in a similar fashion as the tailgate latches work... except that the release mechanism will be hidden under the roll of the bed side lip. That way there's no apparent way to get into the bed-- just reach under the lip and pop the top, then reach inside and pop the tailgate... voila. Kenneth
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04-18-2003, 01:15 PM | #15 |
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Looking forward to seeing finished pics.
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04-18-2003, 01:21 PM | #16 |
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You going to make the hard cover out of aluminum? That's one nice thing about step sides - you can buy sheets of metal and such that fit in one piece.
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04-18-2003, 01:25 PM | #17 |
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I seen a step side the other day that had polished ALUM. floor plate in the bottom of the bed, and the sides were sprayed with bed liner, man, it looked good
Sam
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04-18-2003, 05:38 PM | #18 |
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What guage are the 2X2's? I really like that idea, that is really right up my alley. I don't however want to build something that is either heavy like a pig, or too thin that will smash. I guess you could make the top panel out of Stainless...
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04-18-2003, 05:43 PM | #19 |
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1/4" polished ALUM. diamond floor plate, it will not be too heavy and it looks bad ass
Sam
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04-18-2003, 05:51 PM | #20 | |
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As for the bed cover, I haven't really thought too hard on it other than that I was picturing a square tube aluminum frame with a couple of cross beams, and then skinned with either aluminum or fiberglass. I don't need to be able to stand on it... I just need it to be rigid (as opposed to the vinyl ones that tend to flap in the wind) and I need it to appear to have no "connectors" (like the snaps, etc., you usually see on vinyl ones). The finish will either be a very light pebble texture then body color paint or a good marine vinyl if I can find a matching color. Ideally it could be ultra-smooth and painted but with such a large flat area it might be impossible to get it smooth enough for high-gloss to look good. Kenneth
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04-18-2003, 09:44 PM | #21 |
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you must have a hell of a bead roller to do 12 gauge ..i've only played with small bead rollers and anything 18 gauge or over is almost impossible
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04-19-2003, 03:38 PM | #22 | |
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04-19-2003, 11:26 PM | #23 |
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I know I've seen shops bend metal to match the factory "ribs" in the newer bed floors - maybe thats another option to look at...?
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