8 lug Disk swap 1982 to 1964 confirmation advice

[64hauler]

So after looking at posts on front disk swaps, this is my idea...I own a 1982 1 ton automatic with single axle 8 bolt GMC with hydoboost, so as far as I can tell I can take the entire cross member our and swap it to the 64 C30 1 ton with the power steering as well, what about the hydroboost? Maybe drill a few new holes worst case. or what is missing if I don't use the entire cross member..and just swap entire upper/lower control arms, and just drill holes for the idle arm..am I on the right track here...thx

Question 2...I would like to put in my 400 Turbo tranny in the 64 and remove 4 speed, is the drive shaft going to be the main issue, yolk difference probably and length, what about the trans e- brake..i do have a manual line lock to do a rear e brake if needed, any advice on driveshaft that will work or out of never truck... would help.

[padresag]

put in the entire crossmember. if it is the early style h/boost it will just bolt in; later style see capt fab here on the forum , he makes an adaptor which is quite reasonable along with a steering box mounting plate to mount the box properly to the frame.
you may have to do some work to the d/shaft( you might have to let a moth or 2 flutter out of your wallet), but I doubt that it will break you.you will have to remove the crossmember under the b/housing and install a rear trans cross member
ron

[Captainfab]

It will be easiest to swap the entire front suspension, crossmember and all. One reason being that the '63-'66 C20 lower control arm shafts are flat and bolt to the crossmember with regular bolts. The newer lower control arms will not bolt up as not only are the holes not present for the U-bolts, but the saddles are also missing.

As for mounting the hydroboost, I sell the brackets to make the installation a clean looking bolt on deal. I also sell the power steering box adapter plate.

About the e-brake. If you have or can get the rear end from the '82, I would install that also. Not only will that allow you to convert to a regular cable operated e-brake, but will also give you a taller gear other than the 4.57 gear your '64 likely has. Plus the parts for the Eaton HO52/72 are getting harder to find and $$$ when you do. The '82 likely has a 10.5 FF 14 bolt. Parts for those are readily avaliable.

[64hauler]

Thx guys for the good info, yes I can take the diff as well, I assume is it just a matter of putting dual wheels on the 14 bolt diff but due to it being a single wheel 1 ton, I thought cab and chassey truck diffs were narrower and would be wider now, or were 64 cab and chassey trucks not narrower in the rear diff department.? Thx

P.S. I do have an 89 Chevy cab and chassey dually truck 350 tbi 4 speed...is that a truck better to use everything from, it still has the 81 up body style for that year C&C

Originally Posted by Captainfab

It will be easiest to swap the entire front suspension, crossmember and all. One reason being that the '63-'66 C20 lower control arm shafts are flat and bolt to the crossmember with regular bolts. The newer lower control arms will not bolt up as not only are the holes not present for the U-bolts, but the saddles are also missing.

As for mounting the hydroboost, I sell the brackets to make the installation a clean looking bolt on deal. I also sell the power steering box adapter plate.

About the e-brake. If you have or can get the rear end from the '82, I would install that also. Not only will that allow you to convert to a regular cable operated e-brake, but will also give you a taller gear other than the 4.57 gear your '64 likely has. Plus the parts for the Eaton HO52/72 are getting harder to find and $$$ when you do. The '82 likely has a 10.5 FF 14 bolt. Parts for those are readily avaliable.

[Captainfab]

If you are wanting to keep your '64 a dually, then yes I would use the '89 dually suspension and running gear if you don't mind using it for a donor. Your '82 being a single wheel truck, the front rotors are different from a dually truck. The single wheel 14 bolt has shorter wheel studs than a dual wheel 14 bolt. Of course those could be changed to the longer ones. Also I believe the dually trucks had larger brakes....13" versus 12"? Yes I do believe the C&C truck dually differentials are a bit narrower than the dually's with a pickup bed. I don't remember just how much. I do know the backing plates are very close to the springs which makes it hard to bleed the brakes.

Originally Posted by 64hauler

Thx guys for the good info, yes I can take the diff as well, I assume is it just a matter of putting dual wheels on the 14 bolt diff but due to it being a single wheel 1 ton, I thought cab and chassey truck diffs were narrower and would be wider now, or were 64 cab and chassey trucks not narrower in the rear diff department.? Thx

P.S. I do have an 89 Chevy cab and chassey dually truck 350 tbi 4 speed...is that a truck better to use everything from, it still has the 81 up body style for that year C&C