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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Choosing front sway bar
I'm having some trouble choosing a front sway bar for my 68, despite searching through the site extensively as well as google images, etc. I notice several options that fit my truck and are in my budget, and have read a few installation issue threads, so I'm looking to get some feedback regarding what would be best for my truck.
Currently the truck has stock arms, 3" spindles, 2" springs trimmed a bit. Also has power steering (not sure if that creates any clearance issues on some designs). I know some of the designs are better for lowered applications via the shorter frame perches, etc. I also know I wont be spending over $200 on this which takes me away from of the really nice stuff like NoLimit/ Hotchkis/ etc. Here's a picture of how it sits for reference: ![]() The options I see are stock style like this, with the bushing ends on the a-arms. Vendor would have to be ECE right, I'm not heading to a junk yard to pull one? Also does this stock style bar have any hang ups when used as low as I am? I did read one thread about an oddly shaped bar coming from ECE which deters me. ![]() Next would be the End link style bars. First is the one POL sells. This style one uses L-brackets that need to be mounted to the front of the arm, not utilizing any of the existing holes. This seems popular, but mounting to the top of the arm must be slightly better right? ![]() This bar is very similar, but it does use the factory hole in the a-arm. Seems very nice, but not sure if I'd have to use the tall frame perch? Seems as if there is no drop in the bar at all and it must be mounted flat. ![]() The CPP bar looks near identical, and comes with both height perches, and looks to be solid. The shape is much more angular, making me think there might be issues with the steering clearance? There is an install article on hotrod where they use this style and they have to use the tall perches to get it to work. Not sure that's best? ![]() Overall, just looking for real world install advice from you guys. Has anyone had success with any of these bars? The clear winner after the threads I HAVE read seems to be the stock style, but I'd like some confirmation due to not many guys being as low/ power steering clearance/ etc. Any info helps, thanks in advance! |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Belews Creek , NC
Posts: 4,220
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Watching for feedback on this also as I am about to purchase my front swaybar
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Larry It is easily overlooked that what is now called vintage was once brand new. "Project 68" paypal.me/ldgrant |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
Posts: 8,545
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
I use factory bars you couldn't pay me to mount that hokey end link with the tiny little bushings and rods, it all looks generic ? use the drop mounts if your concerned about clearance issues .
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#4 |
Moderator
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,004
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
The bigger the the bar the better the performance. I always pull one from the local junkyard from a 1 ton 70s-80s truck. They are 1 1/4 inch diameter and make a world of difference in handling.
__________________
1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man |
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#5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
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#6 |
Moderator
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,004
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
If you don't want to go to a yard buy one off the parts board here or Craigslist.
__________________
1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man |
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#7 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
The other method which is the cheapest if you need ground clearance such as for those concrete parking stops is to eliminate the frame bracket in picture 1 and mount the front of the bar directly to the frame, this is necessary when the A arms are level or close to level with the frame on very low trucks, this was the "trick" in the 80's on lowered trucks, still works today....
Look under your truck and see how far the A arms are in relation to the frame to see if it will work. You can get a used bar on the parts forum here too. |
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Quote:
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: strausstown pa
Posts: 3,394
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Thats a sweet looking truck you have there.
My opinion is you can't go wrong with a oe 1 1/4" bar. I've never heard of fitment issuses with them but I'm not into bagging trucks either. My BBC 67 with ece 4/6 drop and a 1 1/4" oe bar with poly bushings and the lower height mounts. It handles awesome and it fit perfect makes a world of difference in the way it handles. I think I might have a total of $45-50 into it that's the bar, bushings,paint and bolts. I pulled it from From a p step van in a jy. Mine only had one rivit on each side of the frame stands to get out the rest was bolted in.
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81 camaro 355 4/spd 342 posi my first love ![]() 67 swb step 454/4spd ott 373 posi 4/7 drop. 2000 s10 zr2 little blue truck that never gets stuck. '74 heald super bronc vt8. tecumseh powered moon rover. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sherwood AR
Posts: 553
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
My '67 is just as low as your truck. im using a 70s one ton bar, poly bushings, and the ECE short brackets. No clearance issues at all with power steering/ drag link.
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
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#12 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
As long as I'm on this thread...
Make sure the front frame cross member is still tight, check each rivet by placing your finger where the crossmember attaches to the frame near the rivet and have someone shake the steering wheel left and right, if you feel movement replace the rivets with fine thread tight fitting bolts, 7/16 grade 8, I believe. You will loose a lot of sway bar effect with a loose crossmember and most of them are at least a little bit loose fitting since they are so old now. |
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#13 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Per request via PM.
ACDELCO 46G0527A sway bar bushings, set of 2 for $4.93 at rock auto. They are black urethane bushings for the stock sway bar. I think they have cheaper ones too, but those are the ones I used. |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Randy here had a bar he sold me for a good price, and I just found the bushings at a local parts store for < $10. Should have the bar by the weekend and try to install. I'll post when I have an update. Thanks everyone.
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Harvard Illinois
Posts: 76
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
I bought the CPP one with the links but have to replace my lower control arms before I can install it. The passenger side lower control arm is bent. I will let you know how it fits when I install it.
I currently have 2.5 drop spindles and 2" drop Belltech springs with Street Performer shocks on my 72 LWB.
__________________
1972 C10 Custom Deluxe 4.8 LS 4l60e |
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#17 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,106
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
I just put a 1 1/4" stock bar on my Burban. It was $40 bucks at the wrecking yard pulled. Two of the straps were missing and one of the center ones was smashed. Trip to the parts store for two sets of 1 1/4" energy suspension bushings ($18.40 each). Removed the factory stands for the bushings and found that the sway bar hit when the front was aired out. So I modified the stands and bolted it up. $78.80 invested and the truck drives SO MUCH BETTER! I could have spent less if I went to the u-pull-it and gotten one with all the straps in good condition. I have pictures and more info on my Working Man's Burban thread page 8 about half way down. (The WMB link below) I believe you could run a bar without the bushing stands with a 4 or 6 inch drop.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bartlett, TN (near Memphis)
Posts: 202
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
I put ECE on my truck. No regrets.
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#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Quote:
Good to know, especially since it's essentially a remake of the factory 1 1/4" bar. Thanks for the reply. |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
So randy500 sent me a stock bar with brackets for a good price, and I got new bushings locally for <$10. Received the bar on Saturday, cleaned it up a bit and installed Sunday morning. Just so happens it matches the rest of my suspension
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 64
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Ninja edit.... found what I was looking for, great thread!
Last edited by Janz99; 03-20-2017 at 12:28 PM. |
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#22 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Here is what should be noted from this thread...
The frame bracket on the frame is not needed nor desired with any amount of spring drop. You see Ben said he had a little over 2" spring drop which makes the frame bracket not needed, his bar sits the proper distance from the frame to the control arms without the frame bracket. He has increased clearance for curb style parking stops since the brackets now are gone and the bar sits above or near the lower edge of the front bumper. He didn't have to remove the front crossmember rivet which can be a real pain. Those kits shown in the first post suck compared to the way he mounted his bar... Clean install, good job! |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 64
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Ben_Yeaton - what diameter bar is the one you installed?
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 141
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
It's a stock 1 1/16" bar. I think the 1 1/4" bars that people speak of are pulled from 3/4 ton trucks. Either will work but obviously require the appropriate sized bushings. Otherwise; same shape and size.
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2,188
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Re: Choosing front sway bar
Ive been thinking about doing this for a while. My truck has 2" lowering springs, stock spindles.
I saw it mentioned that the stock truck bars are riveted in... Is that the case on all of them? I'd like to save a few bucks and find one in a pick-a-part, but not if I need to take anything other than hand tools with me. Thanks!
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RIP EastSideLowLife '72 C20 SWB convert. 5 lug, LS1/4l60e |
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