LS swap assistance and info please

[Chevmdnss]

Ok Gang, here we go... starting point 1970 C/10 LB 350 2bbl/TH350 A/C cab

I am going into the shop tomorrow to do the static drop, McGaughy's 4.5/5 with disc conversion, ECE adjustable super trac bar, & front sway bar. During this it will also be getting the full MOOG front end rebuild. I feel this will give me the stance and handling I want.

Now to the reason for this post....

I have the opportunity to buy a running/driving 2001 K2500 with LQ4 (U code 6.0) and 4L80 really cheap.

Since many of you have challenged the LS swap and succeeded, can you guys please advise me of the parts you bought and why. I want to use as many of the stock GM pieces from the K2500 as possible. I am not looking to boost the performance of the 6.0 at this time because 300+ hp and almost 400lbft are more than enough for a daily driver that is 46 years old.

I know there will be some things I will have to buy, and some things that have to be fabricated.

Concerns of mine as of right now....

Belt drive - will this setup work in these frame rails
4wd tranny - is it as easy as putting a tailshaft housing on and calling it good?
A/C - should I buy a vintage air kit, or what?

Oil pan - do I need to change it?
Driveshaft length - will it need to be modified or are the engine mounts adjustable enough to accommodate?

I am reading every thread I can find, so I may find some answers as I go...

I understand that this is not a cheap venture at all, but I want to have as much heads up as possible before we start this part of the build.

Thanks in advance for any input!!

[Chevmdnss]

Don't kill me guys... I'm still adjusting to the forum.... LOL I found the LSx section!

[12secondnova]

The stock accessories will work. Even the stock fan fits in the factory shroud.

And you will need to change the oil pan, the stock one hangs down an inch below the frame so with your lower kit you will probably want to change it. I bought the cheap 'gm muscle car swap pan' from gm for about $150. The dimensions say its an inch shallower than the stock truck pan but I haven't installed my engine yet so I can't speak to whether it fully tucks above the frame.

The 4l80 will need the output shaft and the tailshaft changed.

Driveshaft will need to be shortened.

Not sure about the A/C never installed it but vintage seems to be the choice of alot of people.

[72MARIO]

I would keep the factory ac even if it cost double to get working like new. Ctsv oil pan is my choice

Shaft will need to be cut down to fit

[Chevmdnss]

So 2 different ideas... Replace shaft.. $$$ or cut down... ¢¢

A/C doesn't work, so I'd have to replace all of it anyway

[Valarius_Starchaser]

The 4l80e 4WD output shaft has two variations on the spline length depending on the year/RPOs some shafts are a full length spline and can simply be cut down and have the output housing changed others require a trans tear down and swap (this is the easiest trans ever made to work on and requires no special tools other then a lip seal installer)

what is the mileage on the unit?

[Badger69]

You'll need a good computer tune as well. Get rid of emissions, set trans shifting, tcc lockup, etc...

I also ran the CTSV pan.

I have a LS2 from a TBSS. Kept the entire factory accessories set up. Used the factory a/c compressor and power steering pump. My a/c is from vintage air.

Buying a wiring harness is nice, but I know guys on here have made their own from the factory harness. I used Tempe Speed for a plug and play deal.