My TH350 rebuild

[1977K10]

the spring compressor I just got the cross bar is to long to fit into the drum.
and I hav e to recant myself, it is the drumj that the sprag fits onto......
I did get some video, and pictures, I am goi ng to upload them and put the link here so everyone can see what I was referring to.

[1977K10]

Here is my pictures of the Intermediate drum that I am having problem with....
the links for the video are coming very quickly.

[1977K10]

here is video 1:
http://youtu.be/4rEENLUbWoU
video 2:
http://youtu.be/pJFAXLx3QxQ

[rs72z]

The picture that shows the piston in the drum, the piston isn't in all the way yet.
What are using to get the lip sill to go down into the drum?
What are you lubing the lip seals with?

[1977K10]

I an using new trans fluid to lubricate, and I had to go get 2 6" c-clamps in order to put pressure on the springs.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

I an using new trans fluid to lubricate, and I had to go get 2 6" c-clamps in order to put pressure on the springs.

The piston isn't in all the way. Take it out and make sure that you haven't cut them trying to force it in. You need to take some vasoline and mix a little trans fluid with it or get some trans gel from a trans shop or supply company.. Put the mixture on the seals before trying to install them. Next you need to get a feeler gauge set and use the thinest gauge in there to go around the seals and drum to help get the piston to go all the way into the bore. Be careful doing this so as not to cut the seal.

[1977K10]

ok, gotcha, I can get that tomorrow, I get paid today after 5. I can go get some of that before work on sat

[1977K10]

With my forward clutch pack, I didn't even have to remove the springs at all, I just unlocked the outer lock ring and the steel plates, and friction rings came right out no problem.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

With my forward clutch pack, I didn't even have to remove the springs at all, I just unlocked the outer lock ring and the steel plates, and friction rings came right out no problem.

You did replace the seals in the foward drum, right?

The frictions and steals should come out after removing the big lock ring on op. You remove the snap ring on the springs after removing the frictions and steels.
Same when installing. Install the piston and the springs. then once the you have the snap ring on the springs install the frictions and steels and pressure plate then the lockring.

I hope this make sense and i'm not confusing you more.

[1977K10]

no, your not confusing me, I am following you.
no, I hadn't, I was thinking about it, although when I ran into the spring base on the intermediate, I thought better of it, the seals in the intermediate are still in good shape, if on the odd chance I wanted to reuse them, I just didn't want to have to fight with the forward clutch pack to, although, I probably should check them so I can make sure they are in good shape to.

[1977K10]

reading my th350 handbook, I may have located the problem with the spring base, it says to install new inner and outer seals on direct-clutch spring base seal lips must point away from spring release side of piston.
I put them back on the way I had got them off, and they were pointed toward the springs, not away from them.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

reading my th350 handbook, I may have located the problem with the spring base, it says to install new inner and outer seals on direct-clutch spring base seal lips must point away from spring release side of piston.
I put them back on the way I had got them off, and they were pointed toward the springs, not away from them.

Yes, that's right the open part of the seal goes away from the piston. The one inside the direct drum faces up toward the piston.

[rs72z]

When you take the piston out snap a pic of the seals and then one after you change them and also of the one in the direct drum.

[1977K10]

who ever installed them the last time didn't have them pointing the right way, that may help to seat them correctly now

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

who ever installed them the last time didn't have them pointing the right way, that may help to seat them correctly now

The direct piston was always the hardest for me to install.

[1977K10]

I am glad I am not the only one that has had problems with the intermediate...
begining to think I was a dork or something, yea once I get the intermediate, and the forward reopened, I will get a few pics, so far though I havent found that the bushings, thrust bearings, or anything of that has had any kind of damage, looks like normal use.
the only place there has been any damage has just been the forward clutch pack..., that was a big sigh of relief. when I get this back together I will be ordering some of the Lube Guard trans flush fluid, and flush out the trans, then try some of their trans fluids, and what not.

[1977K10]

well it has paused the raining for a bit, so I am going to hop out there and get to work for about 2-3 hours before I have to go to work.
I can still respond by mobile, pictures will have to wait until I come back in.
hooray.

[rs72z]

Text me a pic if you have any questions.

[1977K10]

ok, got some more pics of the intermediate clutch drum. After I double checked the direction of the seals, and replace them facing the correct direction, i seated the spring base with a rubber mallet, with light taps, the base set nicely and allowed me to take the C-clamps and compress the springs and get the lock ring in place.
here are the pics of the process. the intermediate clutch drum is replaced, and complete ready to install.

[rs72z]

I you drove the piston in with a hammer i promise you cut the seals. they have to be installed the way i told you. You can't force the lip seals in, they have to installed very carefully.

[1977K10]

I didnt slam down, the rubber mallet was like maybe an inch above the spring base, would that even damage that ring? if so, I'll go back out tomorrow and open that back up and check them before I go on.

[rs72z]

If you can get to some air you can check it by putting air to the hole in the inner bore of the drum and see if the piston moves the clutches all the way out.

The inside lip of the drum where the seals start down in the drum will cut the seals going in if you force it at all. Using a feeler gauge you go around the outside of the piston then the inside bore of the piston to get the seals to start down past the lip on the bore.

The only piston you can force in is the low/reverse in the bottom of the case because they use square cut seals not lip seals.
If you need to see how it's done i will try and take a video this weekend and upload it.

[1977K10]

ok here is the video of me assembling my intermediate clutch drum
steel plate - friction ring - steel plate and so forth.
http://youtu.be/pJFAXLx3QxQ

[1977K10]

I did use clean trans fluid, and the feeler gauge, I just didn't have the Vaseline, I'll recheck it and make sure the seal didn't get cut.

[rs72z]

Originally Posted by 1977K10

I did use clean trans fluid, and the feeler gauge, I just didn't have the Vaseline, I'll recheck it and make sure the seal didn't get cut.

When you use the feeler gauge and the lip seals go past the lip on the drum it will fall right to the bottom with a clunk. It shouldnt take any force. It also helps to rotate the piston a little to get it to go in.