Original fuse junction-ignition switched conn

[vjjack04]

Guys,
I am wiring a new hot pos wire for my Pertronix Igniter III to by pass the resistor....anyone done this? I can check to see which wire is switched on by the ignition with a meter, but just wonder if there is someone who has done this, on the forum with any insight. I have a new, but stock wiring harness (already installed, prior to my owning the vehicle).
Thanks.

[solidaxel]

Sounds good to me, just use a SWITCHED hot wire to the coil,
Make sure than when you go to the start position on the key that your new switched wire to the coil remains with 12VDC or it will not start.

I found a pic of the ground wire on the starter.
The Neg. cable from the batt. to the outside bolt on the starter and from the starter to the frame, and frame to cab

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Sounds good to me, just use a SWITCHED hot wire to the coil,
Make sure than when you go to the start position on the key that your new switched wire to the coil remains with 12VDC or it will not start.

I found a pic of the ground wire on the starter.
The Neg. cable from the batt. to the outside bolt on the starter and from the starter to the frame, and frame to cab

Thanks. I figured out the ground from our previous communications. What I am interested in is, if you know of where the switched wire is on the fuse junction....but I reckon just tracing it back will work....

[solidaxel]

Does your starter solonid have two small bolts and one battery connection?
There are a couple of ways to wire your start and run wires.

I think the hot wire to the coil comes the ingition switch, this may be the resistance wire you were talking about, it has been 41 years since I had a 57 Chevy pick up so my mind is a bit foggy !!!!

[1project2many]

The green wire from the switch to resistor is 12V, not a resistance type wire (hence the need for the resistor). The other side of the resistor is connected to the coil +and is typically a black wire. On an original truck there is a second wire connected from the coil side of the resistor or the coil + terminal to the starter which bypasses the resistor when the starter is engaged. This provides as much voltage as possible to the coil. This wire is also typically black.

I wanted to hide my electronic ignition conversion so I clipped the resistor inside the ceramic block then tied into the green wire for 12V+ and the black wire to coil for the power feed to coil. I removed the black wire between starter solenoid and coil. The resistor block is still in place and looks original.

Help any?

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

The green wire from the switch to resistor is 12V, not a resistance type wire (hence the need for the resistor). The other side of the resistor is connected to the coil +and is typically a black wire. On an original truck there is a second wire connected from the coil side of the resistor or the coil + terminal to the starter which bypasses the resistor when the starter is engaged. This provides as much voltage as possible to the coil. This wire is also typically black.

I wanted to hide my electronic ignition conversion so I clipped the resistor inside the ceramic block then tied into the green wire for 12V+ and the black wire to coil for the power feed to coil. I removed the black wire between starter solenoid and coil. The resistor block is still in place and looks original.

Help any?

Yeah, I believe I get it. I will be removing the resistor altogether, so it should be simple enough. I also have the Pertronix coil as well.
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[solidaxel]

Lets now we have power to the starter, power to the coil and distributor, do we have gas in the tank?

Turn the key and lets hear this thing purrr !!

[mr48chev]

If the truck has a resistor (block) in the system it shouldn't have a resistor wire like many of the early 70's trucks do.

The simple way would to just put a jumper wire across the resistor (or bypass it) in pretty much the same concept that 1project2many did his. to hide the jumper is up to you but once you put it in place the resistor should be out of the equation but there in case you ever have occasion or the need to swap back to points.

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Lets now we have power to the starter, power to the coil and distributor, do we have gas in the tank?

Turn the key and lets hear this thing purrr !!

Not sure if I will actually start it this weekend, but there is a chance ...with all the monsoon rains, I will be doing a lot of weed "whacking" and round-up spraying....
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[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

The green wire from the switch to resistor is 12V, not a resistance type wire (hence the need for the resistor). The other side of the resistor is connected to the coil +and is typically a black wire. On an original truck there is a second wire connected from the coil side of the resistor or the coil + terminal to the starter which bypasses the resistor when the starter is engaged. This provides as much voltage as possible to the coil. This wire is also typically black.

I wanted to hide my electronic ignition conversion so I clipped the resistor inside the ceramic block then tied into the green wire for 12V+ and the black wire to coil for the power feed to coil. I removed the black wire between starter solenoid and coil. The resistor block is still in place and looks original. 2nd pic is the columns wiring, which I cannot figure out the pink wire....

Help any?

So, if the green wire is 12v wouldn't it read 12+...but with the switch on (and the battery in), I get hardly nothing.......does it have to be all hooked up to close the loop? See picture - green and black wires at the top are the coil and the green and brown are the resistor. So if i put that green resistor wire with the coil.....it would work? Neither seem to have 12v with the ignition on.

[vjjack04]

See pics and my question, does the whole circuit have to be complete to test for 12 volts? I don't get 12 volts on any of the resister or coil wires...
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[solidaxel]

You will have to go back to the switch and see if there is 12V leaving the switch and follow that to where you "think" it goes. There is a broken or cut wire in the middle!!
What is the turn signle loom for, is that where you are getting your 12Vdc from?

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

You will have to go back to the switch and see if there is 12V leaving the switch and follow that to where you "think" it goes. There is a broken or cut wire in the middle!!
What is the turn signle loom for, is that where you are getting your 12Vdc from?

THanks. I don't see why another wire is cut....I didnt mess with any other...but I will trace it and see...

No, the turn signal pic is for another question...I don't know what the pink wire is for...
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[1project2many]

Sorry to let this drop. I don't believe all trucks had a brown wire. Definitely didn't stick out in my mind. Check for brown at ignition switch and if so, that's your 12V supply. Use voltmeter on "Ohms" and connect to green at coil and green at resistor. Expect continuity or very low resistance reading. Black wire at coil is distributor. Green in background is ??? Do you have an aftermarket tach? That is the right shade wire fro a tach.