Stock manual master cylinder brake line routing 71–72 C10 half ton

[dmjlambert]

Hi, does anyone have pictures of the mounting of master cylinder, and stock combination valve with its bracket, and brake lines where they attach to the frame and how they are routed especially for front, for manual brakes, no booster, 1/2 ton 2WD pickup for 71-72?

[72SB]

my 72 manual front disc MC pics. don't have pics of the rest of the lines

I have since converted to CPP power booster/MC. Stock lines bolted right up to it

[Accelo]

Here is one with the 6 cylinder that gives some decent detail.

After a lot of research, none of which I could really confirm, I believe there were a lot of factory configurations. Some depending on the build plant and the motor transmission combinations.

I know some of the general differences at the front cross-member. The lines are in front of the cross-member on the disk brake trucks and behind it on the drums.

The attachment point at the differential is also different in 72. The steel line ends at the RH frame rail on the earlier trucks and continues to the center of the differential along a frame cross-member in 72. Don't forget the combination valve is different between the disk brake trucks and the drum trucks.

Frankly the darn brake lines were one of the biggest headaches on my build. What I purchased either didn't' fit or leaked. The third proportioning valve finally worked and didn't leak. I ended up making most my lines. Only thing I did correct is use DOT5 fluid. It doesn't remove paint, when it leaks, and my system leaked everywhere. Very frustrating experience. Did I tell you I hate brake lines? LOL.

[72SB]

Barke line fittings, used lines attaching to new MC/proportioning valve and elsewhere, can leak as the old side flare has been slightly altered in previous mating.

I use copper flare washer to deal with that and has stopped every leak when I was confronted with it. They come in all brake line sizes and can be purchased on Amazon for a few $

Cutting and reflaring lines also works if you have the tools and the hard line length to accommodate cutting some off

[Accelo]

Thanks for the tip. I would recommend purchasing these copper washers with new SS lines.
The prices seem to vary a lot on amazon. Below is an example.

Parker 1/4" Copper Flare Gasket PK 10 (Pack of 5)
Brand: Artist Unknown $137.54. Only $13 each!

I did find 3/8" 10each for $7.60. The 3/16 and 1/4" were not readily available at Amazon. Maybe others will have better luck searching than I?

After some more searching I did find these on Ebay. Closer to what I feel is a fair price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/22498158966...Bk9SR8js7LKTYQ
10 for $2.87 and $15 dollars shipping. LOL. Still only $1.80 each.
Cheers

[72SB]

well in checking my orders on amazon..these were less than $1 each

but I did see others for beyond stupid $ over $100 for a 5 pack

Parker seems to be another brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Legines-Coppe...07CHHKG6T&th=1

[Accelo]

They were inexpensive but in the 3/8" size only.

[NGN]

Thanks for the info on the copper flare washer Accelo, I hope these will be the fix for all the leaks at every connection with our new stainless steel brake lines setup. How do I determine the washer size needed.
Sorry for crashing you page dmjlambert.
Thanks everyone have a
Happy Thanksgiving all.

[dmjlambert]

That is fine to talk about that relevant stuff here. I use those copper flare gaskets when I bend a brake line to use as my fuel line. I haven't arrived at the point to determine if I need any on the brake lines for brake fluid.

I have my new brake lines put in place and screwed together and not fastened to the frame yet. I was kind of hoping it would all fit neatly and use the original fasteners, but that is looking unlikely. I've removed all my 1969 brake lines, and put in 71-72 pre-bent brake line set from inline tube. It has been OK so far, but I do need to do some additional bending to get it to fit. They made one line flat out wrong, swapping the tube nuts on the front left line.