Roostre's 1967 C20 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Roostre · 04-02-2019, 10:17 PM

I've been lurking here for a while and decided to sign up. I am also starting this thread in hopes of keeping myself on track with my truck. This will also give me a record of the changes to the truck. I bought this 1967 C20 about 8 years ago. I found it on CL for $600. It had a flatbed, and quite a bit of rust that I managed to overlook. It spent a couple of years with me just driving around, fixing things as they came up. The first year I pulled the heads off of the 327 and had them freshened up.

Next, I found a bed from a later truck that someone had turned into a trailer. I thought it was pretty straight for the $400 the guy was asking for it, so I bought it and installed it on the truck.

I will update other things I've done to it in future posts, but here's a picture of how it sits today. As soon as my yard firms up enough to get it into the shop, the cab will be coming off and getting a new floor, rockers, and cab corners so I can more safely drive the thing (seatbelts!) As a bonus, the body lines will line up when the rear cab brace is actually existent, rather than reduced to a little bit of rust.

Roostre · 04-02-2019, 10:20 PM

Here's a picture of the flatbed that was on the truck when I bought it. Not a bad flatbed, just not the look I like. Now I just need to find a different box to put on my trailer. It pulls really well, and I hate to lose it!

Barnfind46 · 04-02-2019, 11:24 PM

You got a bed and a spare rearend for $400.00. Not bad!

Roostre · 04-03-2019, 08:16 AM

It's just the housing and axles, someone pulled the center section and put a plate over the hole, but yes, I thought it was a good deal. Thanks!

Roostre · 07-07-2019, 08:29 PM

I picked up a fairly straight 67 grill and a pickle fork from our local grab and go today for $37.95. It's a little bent, but definitely fixable and much better than my current one (the red one in the picture).

Not a bad day for an afternoon of screwing around.

**LockDoc** · 07-07-2019, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roostre

I picked up a fairly straight 67 grill and a pickle fork from our local grab and go today for $37.95. It's a little bent, but definitely fixable and much better than my current one (the red one in the picture).

Not a bad day for an afternoon of screwing around.

Another good find. Keep it up and you will end up with a nice, reasonably priced truck....

LockDoc

Roostre · 07-08-2019, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Another good find. Keep it up and you will end up with a nice, reasonably priced truck....

LockDoc

Thanks! That's the dream!

Roostre · 06-26-2020, 09:56 PM

It has been a while since I've posted any progress on the truck. Life got busy, and I haven't gotten nearly as far as I would hope. I have been plugging away though. First up, the right front fender cup that seems to rust on most of these trucks around here.

Before:

And after:

Up next is to put a patch panel on the back side of the fender. Apparently a previous owner was a sculptor. They "fixed" a spot where the body line was pressed in by carving a new body line out of bondo.

Roostre · 06-26-2020, 09:57 PM

Pictures didn't work. Guess I'll have to try again.

Attached photos for those like me that enjoy them!

Roostre · 06-26-2020, 10:08 PM

Now onto the grill. I decided that the green one was too dented to mess with, so I cut the part that I needed off of it for my original. Certainly not a perfect job, but once there's a little bondo to smooth out the weld, it should be fine for my driver. It's better than the pierced, bent original.

Roostre · 06-26-2020, 10:15 PM

Finally, onto the drip rail. The sealer was cracked out of my drip rail and there was rust starting there. As I cleaned the old sealer out, I ran across more bondo from the sculptor. It looks like the dent is about half way across the cab and 8 to 10 inches up onto the roof. I managed to get a replacement skin for a great deal as it has a few small dings in it from shipping. I think I can make it good enough with some hammer and dolly work. Or I can cut out a patch for the section of roof that I need.

Now I have a question for those that have done it: How do you weld the rear of the roof skin to the rear of the cab? It looks to be spot welded internally. I can take it apart, but how does one re-attach the skin? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

**HO455** · 06-26-2020, 10:22 PM

Keep trying on the photos. We do like pictures around here.

I highly recommend keeping a thread on your truck. It has been a great experience for this old man. The feedback and just the amount of views I have end up getting really push me to get at things on the truck sooner and I plan those jobs out more so I remember to get the camera involved. My simple repair thread has turned into 600 plus posts with over 75,000 views and most importantly it's an invaluable resource I find myself referring back to constantly when I'm contemplating my next task. And it is also serves as my backup, backup photo storage location.
If you do a search there are some very good instructions on posting that got this old guy able to post like a semi-pro.

Okay looks like you have conquered the photo posting problem. Excellent!

Roostre · 06-26-2020, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HO455

Keep trying on the photos. We do like pictures around here.

I highly recommend keeping a thread on your truck. It has been a great experience for this old man. The feedback and just the amount of views I have end up getting really push me to get at things on the truck sooner and I plan those jobs out more so I remember to get the camera involved. My simple repair thread has turned into 600 plus posts with over 75,000 views and most importantly it's an invaluable resource I find myself referring back to constantly when I'm contemplating my next task. And it is also serves as my backup, backup photo storage location.
If you do a search there are some very good instructions on posting that got this old guy able to post like a semi-pro.

Okay looks like you have conquered the photo posting problem. Excellent!

Thanks for the encouragement, that's what I really love about this site! I did manage to get them attached, just takes a bit to remember how to do it. That means I have to do it more often I guess.

Shaky · 06-28-2020, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roostre

Now I have a question for those that have done it: How do you weld the rear of the roof skin to the rear of the cab? It looks to be spot welded internally. I can take it apart, but how does one re-attach the skin? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Check out the link in my signature line to the 67 C20 build. There's some roof stuff in there that might help.

Roostre · 06-28-2020, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaky

Check out the link in my signature line to the 67 C20 build. There's some roof stuff in there that might help.

Thanks! You're is one I glanced through, I'll take a closer look at it. I see you used adhesive, what did you use? I've been thinking about adhesive for the rear pinch weld, but I would have to find something that I don't have to clamp as I'm still not sure how to get to the seam.

Shaky · 06-28-2020, 06:41 PM

The guy who did the work used (I believe) a 3M two-part adhesive designed for bodywork. Appears to be some tough stuff.

Roostre · 06-28-2020, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaky

The guy who did the work used (I believe) a 3M two-part adhesive designed for bodywork. Appears to be some tough stuff.

I've used a 3m two part structural adhesive before to glue Freightliner hoods back together. That was fiberglass, but I seem to remember it saying it was good for metal too. I'll have to look into it more. I think I could press the back seam in place and clamp the rest good enough for that to bond. The 3m stuff is amazing, we would glue a fender on a hood then test it by lifting on the fender. If it lifted the rest of the hood and the fixture, it was set. We only ever had one that failed, turned out the adhesive was past it's shelf life.

toolboxchev · 06-29-2020, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roostre

Finally, onto the drip rail. The sealer was cracked out of my drip rail and there was rust starting there. As I cleaned the old sealer out, I ran across more bondo from the sculptor. It looks like the dent is about half way across the cab and 8 to 10 inches up onto the roof. I managed to get a replacement skin for a great deal as it has a few small dings in it from shipping. I think I can make it good enough with some hammer and dolly work. Or I can cut out a patch for the section of roof that I need.

Now I have a question for those that have done it: How do you weld the rear of the roof skin to the rear of the cab? It looks to be spot welded internally. I can take it apart, but how does one re-attach the skin? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Would suggest to peel the roof off and get the rust out to clean metal. That area it will keep growing due to condensation.

Your into it now, why not go all the way.

Roostre · 06-29-2020, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

Would suggest to peel the roof off and get the rust out to clean metal. That area it will keep growing due to condensation.

Your into it now, why not go all the way.

Yep, that's the plan at this point.

**HO455** · 06-29-2020, 08:40 PM

Tbone maybe able to help with your roof.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805157

**TBONE1964** · 06-29-2020, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HO455

Tbone maybe able to help with your roof.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805157

I will have an outer skin that would be usable I believe. Its solid on the outside but rotted inside above windshield

**TBONE1964** · 06-29-2020, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roostre

I've used a 3m two part structural adhesive before to glue Freightliner hoods back together. That was fiberglass, but I seem to remember it saying it was good for metal too. I'll have to look into it more. I think I could press the back seam in place and clamp the rest good enough for that to bond. The 3m stuff is amazing, we would glue a fender on a hood then test it by lifting on the fender. If it lifted the rest of the hood and the fixture, it was set. We only ever had one that failed, turned out the adhesive was past it's shelf life.

I have seen rockers put on with panel bond. It is permanent.

68Gold/white · 06-29-2020, 09:51 PM

THe glue that Freightliner uses to glue side panels of their buses (Thomas Buses) is call Plexis.
I was parts manager for a Thomas dealer, years ago...There were times when we didn't use that stuff, and it DID go bad on the shelf, of course we always found it to be bad when that repair was going to be made THAT day. Care to guess who's fault it is if your Plexis goes bad on the shelf??? Don't miss that job...

Roostre · 06-29-2020, 10:41 PM

I've got the outer skin already, just trying to decide how to install it. Thanks though. If the adhesive works on rockers, should be good enough for outer roof skin!

Yeah, we found out the hard way to check the expiration date on the tubes before we started using it that day!

Roostre · 07-29-2020, 10:22 PM

I spent about a half hour tonight with the hammer and dolly working out the shipping dents on my new roof outer skin. It's not perfect, but once it is installed and painted, it will be really tough to tell there was anything wrong with it. It will be perfect for my old driver!

04-02-2019, 10:17 PM	#1
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Roostre's 1967 C20 I've been lurking here for a while and decided to sign up. I am also starting this thread in hopes of keeping myself on track with my truck. This will also give me a record of the changes to the truck. I bought this 1967 C20 about 8 years ago. I found it on CL for $600. It had a flatbed, and quite a bit of rust that I managed to overlook. It spent a couple of years with me just driving around, fixing things as they came up. The first year I pulled the heads off of the 327 and had them freshened up. Next, I found a bed from a later truck that someone had turned into a trailer. I thought it was pretty straight for the $400 the guy was asking for it, so I bought it and installed it on the truck. I will update other things I've done to it in future posts, but here's a picture of how it sits today. As soon as my yard firms up enough to get it into the shop, the cab will be coming off and getting a new floor, rockers, and cab corners so I can more safely drive the thing (seatbelts!) As a bonus, the body lines will line up when the rear cab brace is actually existent, rather than reduced to a little bit of rust. Attached Images Last edited by Roostre; 04-02-2019 at 10:23 PM.

04-02-2019, 10:20 PM	#2
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 Here's a picture of the flatbed that was on the truck when I bought it. Not a bad flatbed, just not the look I like. Now I just need to find a different box to put on my trailer. It pulls really well, and I hate to lose it! Attached Images

04-02-2019, 11:24 PM	#3
Barnfind46 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Mena,Arkansas Posts: 485	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 You got a bed and a spare rearend for $400.00. Not bad! __________________ 68' with no bells or whistles unless I add'em.

04-03-2019, 08:16 AM	#4
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 It's just the housing and axles, someone pulled the center section and put a plate over the hole, but yes, I thought it was a good deal. Thanks!

07-07-2019, 08:29 PM	#5
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 I picked up a fairly straight 67 grill and a pickle fork from our local grab and go today for $37.95. It's a little bent, but definitely fixable and much better than my current one (the red one in the picture). Not a bad day for an afternoon of screwing around. Attached Images

06-26-2020, 09:56 PM	#8
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 It has been a while since I've posted any progress on the truck. Life got busy, and I haven't gotten nearly as far as I would hope. I have been plugging away though. First up, the right front fender cup that seems to rust on most of these trucks around here. Before: And after: Up next is to put a patch panel on the back side of the fender. Apparently a previous owner was a sculptor. They "fixed" a spot where the body line was pressed in by carving a new body line out of bondo. Attached Images Last edited by Roostre; 06-26-2020 at 10:04 PM.

06-26-2020, 09:57 PM	#9
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 Pictures didn't work. Guess I'll have to try again. Attached photos for those like me that enjoy them! Last edited by Roostre; 06-26-2020 at 10:05 PM.

06-26-2020, 10:08 PM	#10
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 Now onto the grill. I decided that the green one was too dented to mess with, so I cut the part that I needed off of it for my original. Certainly not a perfect job, but once there's a little bondo to smooth out the weld, it should be fine for my driver. It's better than the pierced, bent original. Attached Images

06-26-2020, 10:15 PM	#11
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 Finally, onto the drip rail. The sealer was cracked out of my drip rail and there was rust starting there. As I cleaned the old sealer out, I ran across more bondo from the sculptor. It looks like the dent is about half way across the cab and 8 to 10 inches up onto the roof. I managed to get a replacement skin for a great deal as it has a few small dings in it from shipping. I think I can make it good enough with some hammer and dolly work. Or I can cut out a patch for the section of roof that I need. Now I have a question for those that have done it: How do you weld the rear of the roof skin to the rear of the cab? It looks to be spot welded internally. I can take it apart, but how does one re-attach the skin? Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Attached Images

06-26-2020, 10:22 PM	#12
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,268	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 Keep trying on the photos. We do like pictures around here. I highly recommend keeping a thread on your truck. It has been a great experience for this old man. The feedback and just the amount of views I have end up getting really push me to get at things on the truck sooner and I plan those jobs out more so I remember to get the camera involved. My simple repair thread has turned into 600 plus posts with over 75,000 views and most importantly it's an invaluable resource I find myself referring back to constantly when I'm contemplating my next task. And it is also serves as my backup, backup photo storage location. If you do a search there are some very good instructions on posting that got this old guy able to post like a semi-pro. Okay looks like you have conquered the photo posting problem. Excellent! __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

06-28-2020, 06:41 PM	#16
Shaky Six in a row makes it go... Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Vacationland: Maine Posts: 1,346	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 The guy who did the work used (I believe) a 3M two-part adhesive designed for bodywork. Appears to be some tough stuff. __________________ 67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce

06-29-2020, 08:40 PM	#20
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,268	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 Tbone maybe able to help with your roof. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805157 __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

06-29-2020, 09:51 PM	#23
68Gold/white Registered User Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Ark City, Kansas Posts: 3,385	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 THe glue that Freightliner uses to glue side panels of their buses (Thomas Buses) is call Plexis. I was parts manager for a Thomas dealer, years ago...There were times when we didn't use that stuff, and it DID go bad on the shelf, of course we always found it to be bad when that repair was going to be made THAT day. Care to guess who's fault it is if your Plexis goes bad on the shelf??? Don't miss that job...

06-29-2020, 10:41 PM	#24
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 I've got the outer skin already, just trying to decide how to install it. Thanks though. If the adhesive works on rockers, should be good enough for outer roof skin! Yeah, we found out the hard way to check the expiration date on the tubes before we started using it that day!

07-29-2020, 10:22 PM	#25
Roostre Registered User Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: St. James, MN Posts: 168	Re: Roostre's 1967 C20 I spent about a half hour tonight with the hammer and dolly working out the shipping dents on my new roof outer skin. It's not perfect, but once it is installed and painted, it will be really tough to tell there was anything wrong with it. It will be perfect for my old driver!



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.