1970 short wide 350. Help!

[CRCustoms]

first off this site is great!

i just purchased my first antique car, and every time i look at it i find another problem! wanted to release my situation to the veterans and see what answers we can come up w/.

thanks in advance!

#1. engine starts easy, but smokes even after warm up. smoke is white, kinda smells like oil (darnet). btw it is a 350 w/ a 3 speed on the floor.

#2. how big of a job is a rear main seal leak? ive been a ford guy untill now, so im not sure if the motor needs to be pulled or what...

#3. rockers were conviently covered with rivited aluminum tape, then rattle can painted primer. my untrained eye didnt catch that... is $19.95 too much to pay for a new rocker? any avice on the install?

#4. every rubber seal is rotten. any guidance?

#5. what can you do about holes in the lower front fenders? ive heard patch plates can do it, but where do i get em?

thanks again guys. im sure this will become a great resource for all...

[Aarons72s]

Originally Posted by CRCustoms

first off this site is great!

i just purchased my first antique car, and every time i look at it i find another problem! wanted to release my situation to the veterans and see what answers we can come up w/.

thanks in advance!

#1. engine starts easy, but smokes even after warm up. smoke is white, kinda smells like oil (darnet). btw it is a 350 w/ a 3 speed on the floor.

#2. how big of a job is a rear main seal leak? ive been a ford guy untill now, so im not sure if the motor needs to be pulled or what...

#3. rockers were conviently covered with rivited aluminum tape, then rattle can painted primer. my untrained eye didnt catch that... is $19.95 too much to pay for a new rocker? any avice on the install?

#4. every rubber seal is rotten. any guidance?

#5. what can you do about holes in the lower front fenders? ive heard patch plates can do it, but where do i get em?

thanks again guys. im sure this will become a great resource for all...

First off
all right let see what I can do
1. Probably worn rings
2.do to the answer to 1 pull engine plus considering the work you might as well replace most of the gaskets. You have to pull the oil pan, pull the oil pump, pull the rear main bearing cap. There is a tool to remove the old seal from under the crank. Ask any mechanic about it and they should now what it is to help pull it out. Coat the seal in oil and slide the first half of the seal in then put the new seal in the cap and just reverese of taking it off.

2b From what you saying so far a replacemnet motor might be cheaper and easier.

3 19.95 aint bad. Just be sure and not buy them from lmc truck. Theres are just 4 pounds of scrap metal.
4 Buy a complete seal kit from gmcpauls or any other reputable vendor.
5 If they are rust holes save your self time and frustration and buy new fenders. They run about 150 to 200 for a decent replacement.

I hope this helps and by the way
Aaron

[CRCustoms]

thanks for the reply aaron. sounds like i need a new motor... the more i hear about it.

pics are on the way!

what exactily are the reputable chevy parts places? remember, this is my first antique vehicle ever...

[Aarons72s]

The ones I have dealt with are chevy duty ( now classic parts of america), kennys trucks and Lmc truck. I have also herd good things about gmcpauls, one of the board vendors. I recomend classic parts, kennys trucks and gmcpauls. I do suggest that you get lmc trucks catalogs though, there parts, especially sheet metal sucks but there catalogs got excelent diagrams so we all order there catalogs for that.
www.gmcpauls.com
www.classicparts.com
www.kennystrucks.com
www.lmctruck.com

Gmc pauls and kennys trucks have good online catalogs but I definently recomend getting the lmc and classic parts in paper form. Hope this helps.
Aaron