Anybody put in new seals in a steering box? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Bill W · 03-29-2004, 02:15 PM

I've got a 91 suburban with leaky steering box. It has no other problems besides leaking. Can you just put in a new seal by input shaft and pitman arm?

Bill

bigd65 · 03-29-2004, 02:25 PM

I'm interested in this also

Bowed · 03-30-2004, 03:46 AM

the answer is yes . the pitman arm seals are easy (about $12.00 at napa ) but the input seals are tricky .

arveetek · 03-30-2004, 12:58 PM

Don't do it! I just went through this in the last couple of weeks. I replaced the seals in the gear box, and a couple of weeks later, the gear box broke and left me stranded. The steering wheel froze when I was making a turn and I couldn't turn the wheels back straight. I had to get towed home.

If this had occurred while driving 70 mph down the interstate......

Unless you know what you're doing, I suggest you just replace the box. A rebuilt unit cost me $150.

You can read about my experience here.

fanman · 03-31-2004, 06:56 PM

I replaced the input shaft seals, the hardest part was getting the (for lack of better words) seal housing from the box. After I got that off, it was just a matter of a snap ring or two. I thought it would be a pain in the butt, so I kept putting it off, but it was actually real easy. Oh this was on my 77 K20.

Grim Reaper · 04-01-2004, 11:43 AM

Arm side is easy.

Put dieverside front tire into kiddie swimming pool. Drop drag link loosed but do not remove arm. Remove C clip that retains seal. Start truck and give full left crank till it bottoms out. Shut of truck. Get mop and clean up fluid that is all over the place if you did not use kiddie pool like I advised.

NOTE the order of the seals and the spacers. This is why you leave the arm on so they cannot go flying till you see how they stack. There is two seals on the output and if they are out of order you will get a internal leak. That is problably the problem arveetek experianced.
Remove arm and old seals. Install new seals and double, tripple, quadruple check that the C-Clip locked in. (DOn't ask why I stress this LOL)

Input: Remove box from truck. Remove C-Clip. Lay box on side and VERY carefully drill 1/8 hole 180 degrees into the metal of the seal as close to the outside edge of the seal as possible.
It is very important to use minimal drill speed and to do this with the box sideways so the metal shavings fall away from the box. You have to be super carefull not to nick the shaft or the housing with the drill bit.

Pry old seal out with Awl or booger hook. Clean and verify no shrapnel from drilling is in the box. and install new seal and C-Clip.

Bill W · 04-01-2004, 01:57 PM

Grim Reaper, great write-up, just what I was looking for. It seems in all the manuals for the home repair person all they can recommend is replace the steering box with a reconditioned one.

The least expensive I've found is $191.00, with exchange at Shucks.

Bill

Grim Reaper · 04-01-2004, 02:07 PM

I'm a cheapskate. That's the under $20 route. Autozone had them in stock even. Get the numbers off the box. There is different sizes but the numbers should tell them the ones to use.

Bill W · 04-01-2004, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Grim Reaper
I'm a cheapskate. That's the under $20 route.

You got any suggestions for my whining 10 bolt rear end. I may be able to pickup another 10 bolt rear end that was rebuilt. It comes attatched to a 90 4x4 suburban in fairly good shape with a cheap price. I'm hoping to be able to part the rest of it and make my money back. I priced a 14 bolt SF with the six lug pattern but those at any wrecking yard I call are $900 or more.

Bill

Grim Reaper · 04-01-2004, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bill W

You got any suggestions for my whining 10 bolt rear end. I may be able to pickup another 10 bolt rear end that was rebuilt. It comes attatched to a 90 4x4 suburban in fairly good shape with a cheap price. I'm hoping to be able to part the rest of it and make my money back. I priced a 14 bolt SF with the six lug pattern but those at any wrecking yard I call are $900 or more.

Bill

10 and 12 show up all the time for cheap on the forsale section here, www.pirate4x4.com and www.ck5.com I'm talking under $100 and sometimes free.

The local pull a park sells 14's for under $100 if they got them.

I'm tossing around picking up a 88 burb with a blown rear axle. Near me. 30K since engine and tranny were rebuilt and it was painted. Asking $1200 and I am thinking of offering $800. hehe I actually have a 10 for it sort of. problem is it's 300 miles away and I am having trouble aranging getting it.

arveetek · 04-02-2004, 02:41 PM

I put the seals in correctly. It's easy to tell which way they go. I think I pre-loaded the bearing too much when I reassambled everything. That's why I recommend replacing the whole unit. It's more of a safety issue than a cost issue to me.

cochran63 · 04-03-2004, 02:06 AM

I recently tried to rebuld my box. when i got it bolted back on it had about a half a revolution of play! After that i just bought a new one.

03-29-2004, 02:15 PM	#1
Bill W Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 229	Anybody put in new seals in a steering box? I've got a 91 suburban with leaky steering box. It has no other problems besides leaking. Can you just put in a new seal by input shaft and pitman arm? Bill

03-29-2004, 02:25 PM	#2
bigd65 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Lake Jackson, TX. Posts: 1,930	I'm interested in this also __________________ 2004 Silverado Crewcab (Dark Spiral Gray)

03-30-2004, 12:58 PM	#4
arveetek Ultimate Diesel Dude Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Southwest Missouri Posts: 328	Don't do it! I just went through this in the last couple of weeks. I replaced the seals in the gear box, and a couple of weeks later, the gear box broke and left me stranded. The steering wheel froze when I was making a turn and I couldn't turn the wheels back straight. I had to get towed home. If this had occurred while driving 70 mph down the interstate...... Unless you know what you're doing, I suggest you just replace the box. A rebuilt unit cost me $150. You can read about my experience here. __________________ Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's

03-31-2004, 06:56 PM	#5
fanman Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Auburn, MI Posts: 156	I replaced the input shaft seals, the hardest part was getting the (for lack of better words) seal housing from the box. After I got that off, it was just a matter of a snap ring or two. I thought it would be a pain in the butt, so I kept putting it off, but it was actually real easy. Oh this was on my 77 K20. __________________ "When I start my car in the morning I want the neighbors to think the world is comming to an end." Homer Simpson I'm not stuck, I've still got some gas left"

04-01-2004, 11:43 AM	#6
Grim Reaper Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Atlanta GA Posts: 1,704	Arm side is easy. Put dieverside front tire into kiddie swimming pool. Drop drag link loosed but do not remove arm. Remove C clip that retains seal. Start truck and give full left crank till it bottoms out. Shut of truck. Get mop and clean up fluid that is all over the place if you did not use kiddie pool like I advised. NOTE the order of the seals and the spacers. This is why you leave the arm on so they cannot go flying till you see how they stack. There is two seals on the output and if they are out of order you will get a internal leak. That is problably the problem arveetek experianced. Remove arm and old seals. Install new seals and double, tripple, quadruple check that the C-Clip locked in. (DOn't ask why I stress this LOL) Input: Remove box from truck. Remove C-Clip. Lay box on side and VERY carefully drill 1/8 hole 180 degrees into the metal of the seal as close to the outside edge of the seal as possible. It is very important to use minimal drill speed and to do this with the box sideways so the metal shavings fall away from the box. You have to be super carefull not to nick the shaft or the housing with the drill bit. Pry old seal out with Awl or booger hook. Clean and verify no shrapnel from drilling is in the box. and install new seal and C-Clip. __________________ Grim-Reaper 70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project

03-30-2004, 03:46 AM	#3
Bowed Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: where it's hot Posts: 1,059	the answer is yes . the pitman arm seals are easy (about $12.00 at napa ) but the input seals are tricky .

04-01-2004, 01:57 PM	#7
Bill W Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 229	Thanks Grim Reaper, great write-up, just what I was looking for. It seems in all the manuals for the home repair person all they can recommend is replace the steering box with a reconditioned one. The least expensive I've found is $191.00, with exchange at Shucks. Bill

04-01-2004, 02:07 PM	#8
Grim Reaper Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Atlanta GA Posts: 1,704	I'm a cheapskate. That's the under $20 route. Autozone had them in stock even. Get the numbers off the box. There is different sizes but the numbers should tell them the ones to use. __________________ Grim-Reaper 70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project

04-02-2004, 02:41 PM	#11
arveetek Ultimate Diesel Dude Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Southwest Missouri Posts: 328	I put the seals in correctly. It's easy to tell which way they go. I think I pre-loaded the bearing too much when I reassambled everything. That's why I recommend replacing the whole unit. It's more of a safety issue than a cost issue to me. __________________ Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's

04-03-2004, 02:06 AM	#12
cochran63 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1,057	I recently tried to rebuld my box. when i got it bolted back on it had about a half a revolution of play! After that i just bought a new one. __________________ Youth soon passes away, but immaturity can last a life time.



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