Rear Drive shaft

[DnvrJay71]

So I just twisted my rear drive shaft off right at the rear yoke. Guess dumping the clutch wasn't such a great idea!
I don't know much about them so thought I'd check with you all and get some recommendations.
Is this something I should get made at a driveline shop? Or would it be possible to find a used one?
I have a 71 K5 blazer 1/2 ton - Manual 4sp transmission. Np205tcase It has a 4 inch block lift so don't know if that would change the length requirements.

[Firebirdjones]

Do you have a driveline shop in the area?

There is one close to me, been in business for 40 years. He makes nice steel driveshafts stornger than a stocker any length with new ends, yokes, and U-joints for about $300. Price goes up depending on aluminum, chrome molly, etc....for more HP.

I've never twisted the shafts on my blazers, I always seem to snap that little 1.438 pinion in half on those 12 bolt rears.

[woodchk502]

You could go either way, If the truck sees a lot of use then a new shaft may be the way to go. thicker wall and bigger joints but to take advantage of that you will need to change the pinion flange as well. Take some measurements and a driveline shop can hook you up.

But a used shaft will serve you fine as long as you ease up on the clutch dumping. I would however throw in some new u joints.
jim

[Ole Beater]

I have a 4 inch lift on mine and a 1 in zero rate spacer in the rear. Adding the spacer caused the stock driveshaft to stretch all the way out. So i had a new one built that centered the slip joint. A local driveshaft shop built it for 140.00

[1971k567cam]

Ole Beater is that 4 inch spring lift or shackle flip? I was wondering if after my shackle flip and a zero rate would require a longer drive line. Now is fine but not sure if after zero rate added it may be to short. I know the front was to short have not replaced but found jeep cherokee front shaft is longer will cut down and install that soon.

[coyote72]

I would have a shop do it. I have not had great luck with finding used ones... usually the slip section has too much play and it causes vibration. You could probably take your old one down and have a new yolk put on.

[Ole Beater]

I have a tuff country spring lift. I put the zero rate on to center the axle in the wheel well. I think that they make the spring with the axle mounting point moved forward. That way you don't have to lengthen your drive shaft. I think that a shackle flip will pivot on the front hangar. Kinda swings the axle down and forward. I used the zero rate to move the axle 1.5" to the rear. If you use the zero rate like i did i imagine you will run into the same problem i had.

[71jimmy]

Originally Posted by Ole Beater

I have a tuff country spring lift. I put the zero rate on to center the axle in the wheel well. I think that they make the spring with the axle mounting point moved forward. That way you don't have to lengthen your drive shaft. I think that a shackle flip will pivot on the front hangar. Kinda swings the axle down and forward. I used the zero rate to move the axle 1.5" to the rear. If you use the zero rate like i did i imagine you will run into the same problem i had.

You sure you got your springs oriented correctly? I have a six inch Tuff country lift and my axle is centered, no problem. My rear drive shaft works but before I offroad the shaft will probably need to be lengthened. Front drive shaft is too short though and will not go on.

[Ole Beater]

You sure you got your springs oriented correctly? I have a six inch Tuff country lift and my axle is centered, no problem. My rear drive shaft works but before I offroad the shaft will probably need to be lengthened. Front drive shaft is too short though and will not go on.

God knows. When I drink beer and work on something it doesnt always turn out quite right. Even though, if i turned the springs around it might center the axle but would still stretch the driveshaft out. Gonna have to measure it.

[teeitup]

I've got some stock used ones