Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA

[Luke87gt]

Hello everyone,

I’ve been lurking on this forum for some years now but finally registered as I just purchased a 1969 C10 short bed 6cyl with a three on the tree manual trans (it is a converted longbed). I’ve wanted a 67-72 C10 for years but it was never the right time. It’s probably still not the best time but I went ahead with it I’m hoping this forum will be a place where I can learn more about the truck and establish some community with like minded enthusiasts.

The truck was shipped from Washington to my home in Pleasanton, CA this week. I’ve wanted a short bed c10 for some time now and finally pulled the trigger. I’ve included some pics below.

I have had project cars in the past (late model Mustangs and Corvettes) but this is my first carburetor equipped toy and my first experience with vintage Chevrolet.

A few things I’m hoping you all can start me off with:

a.) I bought the car from an 80yr old man who had it since the 1980s. The truck is obviously an i6 but he couldn’t remember whether it was a 250 or 292cu in engine. Can anyone tell me how I can ID which engine it is? When I do a search on RockAuto, it’s actually showing (4) different 6cyl options in 1969. I always thought there was (2)?

b.) The truck has been sitting for years. The owner would occasionally start it but it’s been a long time since it’s been registered for road use. It’s running very rough and struggles to hold an idle (it has some smoking and you have to goose the throttle to keep it alive). I suspect some carb related issues. I’ll start with a basic tune-up including spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, fuel filter, and air filter. Any other items I should consider while I’m doing this? Also, plan is to mostly use RockAuto ACDelco parts. If you recommend any others, please let me know.

c.) What oil do you recommend for the first oil change? Let’s assume it’s a high mileage i6. 10W-40 conventional sound right?

d.) What rearend came in these trucks? I’ll take a picture and post here.

e.) If it turns out that I need a hand, does anyone know any C10/classic Chevy shops in the Tri-Valley (Bay Area) that know their way around a carburetor?

I’ll be checking back in frequently and plan to utilize this thread for updates as I go. The first priority is to get it running well enough where I can drive around town with my 5yr old son.

We live in Pleasanton, CA which hosts multiple annual GoodGuys and downtown classic car shows which we hope to be a part of in the coming years.

Thank you and look forward to being part of the community here.

Luke87GT

[Steeveedee]

Welcome aboard! I'd also have the gas tank flushed, and replace all the neoprene fuel lines. The carburetor probably has a bunch of dried fuel in it, and should be rebuilt, imo.
For all kinds of service and repair info, specs, etc., go here and download the manuals-
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ghlight=hatzie

You would be well advised to look at the points inside the distributor, as well.

[chevmn]

If spid (decal in glove box) is visible and still intact, post a photo. That will give quite a bit of info, including engine, rear axle ratio (if optional), along with other options it had. Does not appear to be a higher option truck, but nothing wrong with that.

P.S. Sure wish they looked that good in Misouri. The salt and chemicals kill them here if winter driven. I had a 67 I purchased when it was about 10 years old, and the rockers were already gone, and had been filled with bondo by then. You can imagine what 50 years do to them.

[Luke87gt]

Thank you, here is the tag. Still struggling to find how to ID the engine other than it’s a straight 6cyl

[oneshotkyle]

A) engine looks like a 250 to me. You can tell from th passenger side of the block with pics to.
B) do a complete tune up and flush the fuel tank. Plugs cap rotor points condenser at minimum. I bought a hei distributor off ebay cheaper than i could buy cap rotor points and condenser. It is a major upgrade to points style distributor
C) nothing special for oil straight 30w would be just fine
D) yours is a truck 12 bolt

[yuccales]

Good looking truck. When you get a chance, post more pics! You know how we are!

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by oneshotkyle

A) engine looks like a 250 to me. You can tell from th passenger side of the block with pics to.
B) do a complete tune up and flush the fuel tank. Plugs cap rotor points condenser at minimum. I bought a hei distributor off ebay cheaper than i could buy cap rotor points and condenser. It is a major upgrade to points style distributor
C) nothing special for oil straight 30w would be just fine
D) yours is a truck 12 bolt

Thank you. Maybe someone can post both a 250 and a 292 and show the differences?

I’m assuming it’s an open rear? I’ll jack up the rear and rotate one of the wheels to be sure but I expect it’s an open.

Pardon my ignorance but what is a “points” and “condenser”? Mind pointing me to that in RockAuto? Wonder if those have another name I’m more used to… Thanks

[HO455]

Welcome aboard and here is some ID information.
Basically 250 has fuel pump in front of motor mount and on a 292 it's aft of the motor mount.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=516277

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Pardon my ignorance but what is a “points” and “condenser”? Mind pointing me to that in RockAuto? Wonder if those have another name I’m more used to… Thanks

Points and condensor is internal of the distributor cap. Old school and higher maintenance than a electronic ignition

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by oneshotkyle

Points and condensor is internal of the distributor cap. Old school and higher maintenance than a electronic ignition

That’s helpful, thank you for the education. Is this an install and forget it or do those pictured parts have any level of adjustability that you have to get right? Thanks

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

That’s helpful, thank you for the education. Is this an install and forget it or do those pictures parts have any level of adjustability that you have to get right? Thansk

You will need a dwell meter to set the points correctly. And from time to time you will have to keep up on them. Thats why id recommend a HEI (i got mine off ebay for like 55 bucks) or a petronix conversion kit. That kit will be electronic and fit in factory distributor.

[Steeveedee]

The points need a gap adjustment. Based on OnShotKyle's post, I'll agree that an HEI may be cheaper. Points and condenser prices were stupid high (to me) last time I did my truck. It has an HEI now, which eliminates points and condenser, and maintains tune for a lot longer, to boot. Maybe check into an electronic kit that just replaces the points. They are on par with those parts, and will last a lot longer than points. You don't have to mess with the ignition harness, either.

[RonWT]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Thank you. Maybe someone can post both a 250 and a 292 and show the differences?

I’m assuming it’s an open rear? I’ll jack up the rear and rotate one of the wheels to be sure but I expect it’s an open.

Pardon my ignorance but what is a “points” and “condenser”? Mind pointing me to that in RockAuto? Wonder if those have another name I’m more used to… Thanks

Welcome aboard, the points and condenser are your ignition components under the distributer cap. There is a solid knowledge base here. Best wishes,

RonT

[zicc1835]

nice find .....congratulations lots of great knowledge shared here.... good luck enjoy that first ride with your son get us more pictures when you can.....PLEASE

[67 twins]

For ignition components like cap, rotor, points & condenser I always use Blue Streak parts. If you do decide to upgrade to HEI remember you get what you pay for. An $89 ebay distributor is no bargain. Get an original GM distributor & rebuild it if necessary. Tom Lowe at 12bolt.com has used distributors for your 6, as well as other new & used parts.
Welcome to the board.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

For ignition components like cap, rotor, points & condenser I always use Blue Streak parts. If you do decide to upgrade to HEI remember you get what you pay for. An $89 ebay distributor is no bargain. Get an original GM distributor & rebuild it if necessary. Tom Lowe at 12bolt.com has used distributors for your 6, as well as other new & used parts.
Welcome to the board.

Very good advice. I'd refresh the OE distributor instead buying a cheap HEI distributor with module and mag pickup of unknown quality. Points will work just fine for this truck.

Heck, back in the 60s thru the mid-70s, all we had was points, and I don't remember ever being left on the side of the road due to a failure. Wish I could say that about HEIs! We did have to check the points gap every several thousand miles, and sometimes carried spare parts. When you do change the points, be sure to change the condenser to keep the new set of points from pitting. Also a new cap and rotor wouldn't hurt, depending on what they look like.

Man, that truck would be a fun one to work on! I hope the problem is not something internal like a valve or ring.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Welcome, neighbor
Monument Auto carries Blue Streak ignition parts, and Hygrade carb rebuild kits.

[dmjlambert]

That is a beautiful truck you have there. I have a 69 of the same color, although mine is rusty. Great purchase. Congratulations. It appears the 80 yr old man took good care of it. You graduated from lurking to posting, that's great. Post lots of questions and lots of pictures. An amazing amount of knowledge and opinions are right here waiting for you to ask. These wonderful folks have helped me with a ton of stuff on my truck. This forum has the most helpful and friendliest vibe on the Internet, I think you will be amazed. I will share a these things that I didn't know when I got started with my truck, and I wish I had known from the start:

1. Original and good reproduction service manuals, owners manuals are available on eBay and from all the catalog vendors.
2. There are numerous online vendors who sell parts for these series of trucks.
3. Many of the vendors let you request a free catalog by mail and those catalogs will give you good ideas. Examples LMC, Brothers, NPD
4. Quite a few but not all of the catalog vendors have been purchased by Holly, and the quality of service and parts have suffered because of that in some people's opinions. Examples Brothers, Southern Kentucky Classics. Something to be aware of.
5. Some vendors directly support this forum and are members here and have very good reputations here as selling stuff that is good quality or the best quality that is available for the particular aftermarket part you're looking for. They may not have glossy catalogs or easy click websites, but for the reasons I mentioned are worth considering making your favorites.
6. For many parts it is not necessary to buy aftermarket, and original used or rebuilt parts or parts you buy used and restore yourself often have superior quality, and this forum has for-sale sections. If you are a premium member you would be able to post parts for sale and post want-to-buy ads. Recommended. I went through a phase of buying aftermarket Chinese parts that would fall apart in my hands as I would put them on the truck, or last a couple months and crap out. Not recommended.
7. National Carburetors is a vendor who sells new and rebuilt carburetors that are the exact replacement for the one on your truck, so if you get into yours and discover things like stripped threads, warped parts, worn bushings, etc. and you don't want to spend big bucks they can bail you out. Or they can provide you a carburetor that will let you continue to drive your truck while you really dig into your original carburetor.
8. The original carburetors on our trucks came with a fuel filter holder built into the carburetor. I may be mistaken but that may include your carburetor and you can get rid of your plastic external filter and rubber hose, and return to an all-steel fuel line which would be less of a fire hazard. It is not hard to bend your own fuel line and flare the ends and install, or vendors such as Inline Tube have pre-bent metal lines. I personally don't recommend stainless steel as it is too hard and prone to leaks, but if you have a leak with one it may be dealt with using copper flare gaskets.

[jjzepplin]

Welcome to the best site ever! I grew up in P-Town out on Tassajara before the houses went nuts out there. 6363 to be exact. There is a school there now. We had a bunch of these on the farm. In fact my Blazer was stored there in the 80's. Nice start. I always lik the feel of the all original 6 and three speed. Fun and reliable. I miss that area sometimes. Where are you at?

[1970cstblazer]

I'm going to dissent here. After having sudden death with a "high quality" aftermarket electronic distributor, I have switched back to points on my 1972 Cheyenne.

On Ebay, there are scores of NOS Delco points, condensers, caps and rotors to make your original distributor work as well as it did new. DO NOT use the currently available offshore electrical parts. They will leave you stranded, or offer overall poor performance.

Spark Plugs:



Points:



Rotor:



Condenser bracket:



Condenser:



Cap:



Vacuum Advance:



Complete wireset:

[HalfBrit]

If you want to keep your distributor, but still upgrade, it's hard to go wrong with the Petronix kit. Successful installs on 3 vehicles over the years.
https://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-118...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[factorystock]

From my experience, the 250 is a solid reliable engine. The biggest issue is usually a poorly performing carburetor, as Steeveedee mentioned ( dirt and gunk blocking orifice's and or accelerator pump in carb worn). Usually, a professional rebuilt carb does the trick, assuming your getting a fresh constant fuel supply from the tank. The other issue is the extra long intake-exhaust manifold which tends to warp over time, causing a vacuum leak where it attaches to cylinder head. Sometimes you get lucky and there just loose bolts and or intake-exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced. IMO, this issue is the main reason GM went to a head with integral intake-exhaust around 1975. The fully synchro 3 speed in '69 is a big improvement from the non synchro unit found in '67-68 6 cylinder pickups, it is actually fun to drive, gears are nicely placed. 3.73 ratio in rear are comfortable up to 60 mph, over that, your mpg start to drop significantly.

[D.B]

Welcome and congrats on finding a nice-looking truck. It appears by the pics it is pretty straight. Looking forward to seeing what you do to it. As others have said - Please post as many pictures as you can so we all get to enjoy what you do to it.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Welcome to the best site ever! I grew up in P-Town out on Tassajara before the houses went nuts out there. 6363 to be exact. There is a school there now. We had a bunch of these on the farm. In fact my Blazer was stored there in the 80's. Nice start. I always lik the feel of the all original 6 and three speed. Fun and reliable. I miss that area sometimes. Where are you at?

Very cool! Pleasanton is a great town, I can’t say enough good about it.

We are about 1 mile from downtown in the Del Prado neighborhood near Hansen Park.

[Luke87gt]

Thank you to everyone for all the help.

I have my tune up parts all selected but struggling to find a P/N for the Blue Streak Points for a ‘69 250. Is anyone able to help with that?

Thank you again.