Help!!! Lost my direction on my K20!

[69K20Builder]

I bought this 1969 K20 (has a 67 front clip) for 500 bucks and i THOUGHT i looked it over good before i loaded it on the trailer to haul it home but every time I start fixing one issue I find something else. I feel like im in over my head and need someone to offer their input on which direction I need to head on this. Like what do I need to do first, second, third and so on. If it's on the truck now it probably needs worked on. It's got rust in every place they make a patch panel for, the front diff grenaded, and no engine are my 3 main issues.

[palallin]

What's your goal? Daily driver? Weekend Trail Warrior? Show Queen? Stock? Fix-and-use? Super Modified?

As with any journey, the direction depends upon the destination.

[my67c20]

Pretty sure we all felt that way at some point on our projects. The good news is you came to the right place for advice. I think you first need to determine what your end game is, and make the plan from there. Unless you have an unlimited budget, it is going to take time. Fix those things that are safety related first, then tackle the drive train. From 50 ft away people see a cool truck. Enjoy the coolness, then slowly pick at the other thing. Lots of good resources, parts advice, and just overall support from the people on this board. Welcome.

[wbc409]

Like the other guys have said, you need to figure out what the end use of the truck is going to be. Once you figure that out, then you can layout a plan of attack to get you where you want to be. People that don't set out a plan with an end goal usually get frustrated with the project, and end up selling a half finished project for way less than they have into it. The other side is they didn't set up a goal or plan, and have 3-4 times the money in the project than they should have spent because they kept changing their mind on the direction of the project.

The truck is repairable, but you need to stay focused, figure out a goal and work towards it.

Once you figure out what you want the truck to be, the others on this site will be more than happy to help.

[kx57]

Like others have said..what's your goal?

What's your budget?

Can you store all parts in a safe dry location? (nothing worse than pulling off something you end up not being able to work on and having it rot outside)

Do you have room, skill and equipment to do ALL the work yourself?

[69K20Builder]

I just want it to be something I can ride to town in on my off days. There isn't much I can't figure out how to do. I feel just a little overwhelmed as where to start.

[69K20Builder]

I'm going to try and keep the budget under 6k. I have everything to do it with and a place to do it.

[cypressbog]

Since you have what seams to be a franken-truck (one that's pieced together) you don't need to worry about keeping it original.

You state it's a 3/4 ton shortbed (never produced). Does it have 8 lug wheels or was the frame shortened?

I'd start with what is known. Find a used front axle and a good running small block V8.

[69K20Builder]

It is on a mid to late 70s shortened 3/4 ton frame.. it has a Dana 44 hd front axle and gm 12 bolt rear. I understand what your saying with punting this project. But body the body work and mechanical stuff like rebuilding a drive train I can handle. I just didn't know where to start. I think I will go about it like this..1. Cut the rust out and weld in new patch panels, 2. Rebuild the drive train (I've got a good Th350 Trans and NP241 and spare NP208 Cases) 3. find an engine to go through and rebuild then finally paint and interior.. making it safe to drive ( not falling through the floor board) then being mechanically sound feels like the best route.. thank y'all for yalls thoughts.. I'll keep yall updated on how I'm moving along with it.. patch panels should be in tomorrow and I picked up some '69 rust free front fenders for 80 bucks.

[mike16]

one piece at a time. always think in terms of resale value. unless you have spicific goals clearly in mind, always choose the restoration route. it will retain and increase value that way.

[In The Ten Ring]

I have learned many things in my life and one of those is that whenever I do something new, I'm in for lots of surprises.

New areas of experience will always be harder, cost more money, and require lots more time and effort. The sooner you come to terms with that, the easier it will be.

Your truck probably has the same amount of rust as mine did when the original owner had it bondo'ed in 1990. My cab must have been heavily rusted and it has so much bondo I plan to get a new cab and deal with the DMV fallout head on.

I figured it would take me 2 weeks to get my truck running. That was 3 years ago! Good has come of that time period: I have fixed a lot of the rust and wear problems that the truck has had since the 1980's. It'll be a much better truck than it was when I came to own it. I have acquired NOS parts, lots of tools, and a whole lot of experience doing new things. Problems the original owner just overlooked I will fix.

I love the look of your truck: 4x4 (right?), cab lights, stepside.....take your time, understand it won't be cheap, and keep going. You'll get there. Just don't do anything you cannot easily undo.

[davepl]

Shoot for mechanically sound first, that's always a good approach. You won't have any lost work because it will all contribute to the end product, unlike random cosmetic repairs.

If it were me I'd start with the fuel system, get rid of any rubber hoses, new filters, fix leaks, etc. Get the choke and heat stove and all of that working properly.

Then cooling - make sure the shroud and clutch fan and all of that is right.

Then electrical - new harness if you need it, that's never a waste.

And so on. But the time, effort, and money you invest in mechanical reliability will never be a waste no matter where your future goals are.

[jocko]

well, I like the truck. This is gonna sound a bit like being a naysayer - however, if you only have $500 in it - I would sell (worst case is you lose $500 - but I bet you could part it for more than that - or sell it for $800) and buy a different truck for $6k. There are MANY out there on craigslist (some on ebay). Have been eyeing 3 different C20 Custom Campers - some longhorns, all for under $6k and in much, much better condition. If you don't know where to start, and the cab corners seem like more than you want to tackle yourself - you will not stay under a $6K budget. Bodywork alone will eat that up. Before you sink more $, sell, even if for parts - and start over. I HATE to give this kind of advice - but given that you only have $500 in it, and you are limiting yourself to around $6K, I'd punt. If you want to take it slooooowwwww and learn all the stuff as you go - well, that's a different story. But it will take a good while. Sounds like you want to drive it - if that is the case, I'd get a driver. Sorry - felt like it was worth telling you you're not abandoning anything here - those cab corners are wicked, and I don't want to know how far along the back the filler crack goes... Anyway, there you go, my 2 cents, which isn't worth a penny. Don't sweat it, you'll either learn a ton on this one or start with a better example and be happy you did.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by jocko

well, I like the truck. This is gonna sound a bit like being a naysayer - however, if you only have $500 in it - I would sell (worst case is you lose $500 - but I bet you could part it for more than that - or sell it for $800) and buy a different truck for $6k. There are MANY out there on craigslist (some on ebay). Have been eyeing 3 different C20 Custom Campers - some longhorns, all for under $6k and in much, much better condition. If you don't know where to start, and the cab corners seem like more than you want to tackle yourself - you will not stay under a $6K budget. Bodywork alone will eat that up. Before you sink more $, sell, even if for parts - and start over. I HATE to give this kind of advice - but given that you only have $500 in it, and you are limiting yourself to around $6K, I'd punt. If you want to take it slooooowwwww and learn all the stuff as you go - well, that's a different story. But it will take a good while. Sounds like you want to drive it - if that is the case, I'd get a driver. Sorry - felt like it was worth telling you you're not abandoning anything here - those cab corners are wicked, and I don't want to know how far along the back the filler crack goes... Anyway, there you go, my 2 cents, which isn't worth a penny. Don't sweat it, you'll either learn a ton on this one or start with a better example and be happy you did.

I agree with jocko 100%. This seems more like a parts truck to me. There are still some deals to be had out there with a truck in way better condition to start fresh.

Gary

[davepl]

Originally Posted by jocko

well, I like the truck. This is gonna sound a bit like being a naysayer - however, if you only have $500 in it - I would sell

Having read it, I think Jocko might be right, esp if you only have $500 or so into it. It's probably not the right truck to start with.

I did exactly what Jocko describes - I started with a $6K truck with no rust whatsoever, running and driving with a big block, buckets, and non-working AC. Then I followed the rest of my advice about mechanical work.

[skrenly]

I wouldn't put a nickel into it except for buying a for sale sign or listing it on EBAY. Craigslist and here is free. Not wroth the time and budget fixing it up. Dump it for a quick buck and keep looking if you want another project.

[69K20Builder]

Well I'm moving right along.. i got a new front clip for 200 and sold the old one for 200.. still got 500 in it.. and scooped up some buckets and a fleet side bed on a trade for my step side.. I'll have the new cab corner and rockers in next week when I'm off..ill order a billet grille insert when I get close to being done

[Wide Open]

Sounds like you found your way

[palallin]

Those '69 fenders will not work right with the rest of the '67 front clip.

The 12-bolt rear end is a semi-floating, 1/2-ton axle, not a 3/4-ton piece. How many lug nuts does it have, front and rear?

Is there anything wrong with the current transmission and t-case?

[69K20Builder]

The stronger 12-bolt, with an 8 7/8-inch-diameter ring gear, can be found in various 1964-82 GM 1/2- and 3/4-ton rearends.

Like I said earlier it's not on its original frame but I was told the 1969 3/4 ton body was sat on a donor 3/4 tons frame from the mid to late 70s which was then shortened in the front. Should the frame have any identification marks? If so I could find them and tell you exactly what it is.

[69K20Builder]

You are correct they won't work but I plan on getting a replacement billet grille and 69 hood to go on the truck

[cypressbog]

You'll need the correct core support to go with the 69-72 fenders and hood you are getting.

[69K20Builder]

Will the grille work with the 69 fenders and hood?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 69K20Builder

Should the frame have any identification marks? If so I could find them and tell you exactly what it is.

Yes. There should be a partial VIN stamped in the frame on the drivers side about under the alternator or above the steering gearbox.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Motor, axle, drive it. Fix rust on weekends while keeping it drivable.