S10 Chassis Swap. Locating the Cab Mounts

[av8tr33337]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgYy5YtW8k

I have been receiving a few requests for information on how to locate the cab mounts on an S10 chassis swap. This video is for reference only. All final decisions on ride hight and cab placement are your responsebility. This video represents what worked for me.

I used a 1996 S10 chassis. The Slotted oval hole that I reference in the video concerning the location of the front cab mounts, I only ASSUME are located in the same place on all years.

I used Jeff51chevy's drawing that he and GRIMISS have so graciously provided on this forum.

I used the drawing as a reference but made my mounts from 4 X 4 square tubing.

[swizzlestick]

nice! this can save guys a lot of hours of searching the internet and mock-up. I wish this was around when I was researching this swap.

[tlorber]

Thank you for the video. I'm just beginning teardown but this will be helpful when I get there.

[ghettoluxury]

Could we make this a sticky?

[av8tr33337]

A sticky would be kinda nice. Not just for cab mounts, but for all general tech tips that pertain to the S10 Chassis swap. This could really "Cut to the Chase" for guys and gals.

Not sure if the purists would agree. You could also argue that a sticky for MII type builds, Clip swap Builds etc. Would be handy. I would completely understand if the admins say this is not a road we want to start down.

Maybe it's just me, but I am finding the videos tend to make things more clear for people and do not require as much back and forth interaction for people to gain an understanding of the processes involved.

I know that not everyone is comfortable making and posting videos, and not everyone is computer savvy. There is nothing wrong with that. It can also be time consuming to shoot and edit. I probably spent a good 2-3 hours today editing and splicing the pics in, but I am happy to do it if people find it helpful. I'm just a novice builder but I am happy to contribute in any way I can that may be helpful.

[55dude]

great upgrade and cool video! Best thing for a S10 chassis is under a AD truck and why would anyone buy a mounting kit for stupid money when this video shows you how.

[nikwho]

What are the limiting factors for how low you can mount the cab on the frame? I see that most guys are mounting their cabs about 3.5" off of the frame. What happens if you set it 2" off, or 1" off? What becomes the issues? Raising the bed floor? S-10 fuel tank clearance issues? Trans tunnel? drive shaft tunnel? I'll be running a 454/TH400. Don't know what rear axle I will run as of yet.

If a guy wanted to mount his cab, say, 1.5" off of the S-10 frame, and was OK with building a trans tunnel, drive shaft tunnel and raising the bed floor, what are the next issues that will arise?

I'm wanting my '53 to basically put the running boards on the ground when aired down. I am putting it on a '94 S-10. I have BellTech 2" drop spindles and everything I need for my 4-link. I plan to have it on bags on all 4 corners and c-notch however much is necessary to get it low. Just wondering what other considerations I will need to make.

Thanks,
Nik

[av8tr33337]

You just listed all the correct issues. To avoid these issues a lot of us use drop spindles and lowering blocks or air bags and a 4 link to keep the body off the frame a ways to minimize those issues. But you can put the body lower on the frame. Check out this link. This guy has done a few of em that way.

http://www.mongosgarage.com/tech/s10...p/swapinfo.htm

Edit: Sorry did not read you post close enough. There are several guys who have used the same set up you are and they did not have to drop the body any less that 3.5 inches from the frame to set the boards on the ground when aired out if I remember right. 99tolife is one of them and there are many others. Hopefully some of them will chime in here.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Great video Bartman. Thanks for taking the time.
Maybe other info/specs can be added which will definitely make it sticky material.

Originally Posted by nikwho

What are the limiting factors for how low you can mount the cab on the frame? I see that most guys are mounting their cabs about 3.5" off of the frame. What happens if you set it 2" off, or 1" off? What becomes the issues? Raising the bed floor? S-10 fuel tank clearance issues? Trans tunnel? drive shaft tunnel? I'll be running a 454/TH400. Don't know what rear axle I will run as of yet.

If a guy wanted to mount his cab, say, 1.5" off of the S-10 frame, and was OK with building a trans tunnel, drive shaft tunnel and raising the bed floor, what are the next issues that will arise?

I'm wanting my '53 to basically put the running boards on the ground when aired down. I am putting it on a '94 S-10. I have BellTech 2" drop spindles and everything I need for my 4-link. I plan to have it on bags on all 4 corners and c-notch however much is necessary to get it low. Just wondering what other considerations I will need to make.

Thanks,
Nik

Nik, I mounted my 53 1.75" off the frame. I have a trans tunnel, no driveshaft tunnel was needed, but the bed floor is raised. For my experience, if you go any lower you'll have issues with the radiator fitting under the hood. I'm running a 19" high rad and it just clears the hood. Mine is SBC 700r4

[av8tr33337]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Great video Bartman. Thanks for taking the time.
Maybe other info/specs can be added which will definitely make it sticky material.

Nik, I mounted my 53 1.75" off the frame. I have a trans tunnel, no driveshaft tunnel was needed, but the bed floor is raised. For my experience, if you go any lower you'll have issues with the radiator fitting under the hood. I'm running a 19" high rad and it just clears the hood. Mine is SBC 700r4

Just to clarify can you tell us if you did any suspension mods.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

No, it's stock S-10 suspension, but it's also on stock 14" wheels in that pic.

[Lowl!f3]

I just had a couple friend do a s10 chassy swap on a 62. if you cut the original cab mounts off the frame of the 60 model. you can weld them to the side of the s10 frame at the preffered height.
They are about to do a 52 s10 swap soon. Ill see how it turns out

[nikwho]

Thanks for the responses, guys!

"63 & 64 Bowties", That's great information, that 1.75" off the frame does not require you to build a drive shaft tunnel. Was it all four cab mounts set at that height? I ask because in "jeffs51Chevy" and "Grimms" drawing, it shows the rear cab mount sitting 0.5" higher than the front. Is this because of the '47-'55 cab mount pads being at different heights? At whatever height I set mine, do I need the rear 0.25" higher? Seems obvious, just wanting to verify. Also, what did you use for cab mounts? The factory S-10 rubber? Seems like those factory rubber pads are 1.25-1.5". Did you go 1.75" plus the bushing? Or was your final height off of your frame 1.75"

Also, av8tr, I like your reference to the oval hole in your vid for cab mount placement. I'm nervous about setting my cab in place without front fenders, but I am not crazy about holding up my project until I can find some fenders. Is there a general consensus for the position of the cab mounts when drastically lowering these trucks? When I clipped my '59 Apache, I moved the front wheels forward about an inch so that they looked correct sitting that low. I may just need to wait until I have a fender to mock it up with. I'm pretty OCD and it'd drive me nuts if I didn't get it just right.

Sorry for all of the questions!! You guys are a wealth of knowledge and I want to learn what I can before i start. Thank you guys so much for your help! It's greatly appreciated!

NIK

[nikwho]

Originally Posted by Lowl!f3

I just had a couple friend do a s10 chassy swap on a 62. if you cut the original cab mounts off the frame of the 60 model. you can weld them to the side of the s10 frame at the preffered height.
They are about to do a 52 s10 swap soon. Ill see how it turns out

Lowl!f3, I've probably just not been paying attention, but i think that's the first '60-'66 swap to an S-10 that I have heard of. I know that the square body cross members are such easy, natural swaps for those trucks, I am surprised one would swap to an S-10. I helped a buddy with his '66. He C-notched the frame, shortened it up under the cab to bring it down to short bed wheelbase and installed a '73-'87 cross member. I know that you can also notch the frame in the front to pull the cross member up even higher to get those really low. I would imagine that an S-10 track width would be REALLY narrow under a '60-'66. Post up pic's of their '52 swap when they get under way, if they (or you) don't mind. I love seeing how other guys tackle this stuff.

[nikwho]

Does anyone have any definitive measurements that will help with cab placement? I am just about ready to mount the cab, but without front fenders that will show me how it will look, I am nervous. Also, as the S10 suspension cycles, how does it effect the wheel base? I am assuming that it moves rearward as it cycles up, so in a vehicle that sits really low, do you need to move the cab back a tad? If you S10 swap guys could give me a little guidance, it would be greatly appreciated!
Nik

[Billys68SS]

Nik, from what I've been seeing some of the guys here are using a fender to center up their cab on the wheel. I'm doing the same with mine. Some move them forward, some move them rearward. All depends on preference. I'm personally planning to center mine since I'm using 18" wheels, and I just think it looks better. You can try Bart's reference if you like. There may be others that have posted that much detail, you'll just have to read through the build posts.
Ok... Here's what I did for you. I measured the centerline of the fender, and from the center of the fender opening to the rear edge of the fender where it mounts to the body is 28". The lip that the fender mounts on is 2" wide. I laid a straight edge across the floor of the cab and pushed it against the door opening, and measured to the center of the cab mount bolt holes. That measurement was 2 3/16". I'm sure 2 1/4" will be fine. With the straightedge in the same place I measured fron the edge of the cab to the straightedge and got 6 1/4". So if we go with 2 1/4" with the bolt location the center of the fender back to the bolt is 30". But add the 2 1/4 back to it to the straightedge to make it 32 1/4" from the center of your wheel opening to the straightedge. These are all approximations off of a 1952 cab and a 1951 front end. I'm sure there is little to no difference, and as long as you are close you should be ok... The s10 cab mount rubber is pretty forgiving so you should be able to move it around a little bit in the holes.
I hope this helps you!
Billy

[av8tr33337]

Sorry I did not respond to your earlier posts. I must have missed them some how. I cant really tell you any more than I did in the video. My cab is not on the frame at this time. if it was I would be more than happy to get you some measurements. I would be nervous about finalizing any thing with out my fenders to use for a reference.

[nikwho]

Thanks for the help guys! I think I have a solid lead on a set of front fenders that I will probably be able to pick up on Tuesday. Billy, i think that either way your measurements will be very useful to me. I appreciate you taking the time to measure all of that!

Nik

[Billys68SS]

You're very welcome! I had been wanting to take those measurements for myself, just so I could have them written down for some time now! Let is know how it turns out! My 49 is my first one of these builds, but I'm very meticulous so I do a lot of measuring and research before I get started.

[nikwho]

That's good! I remember when I did my '59 Camaro clip I lost all of my measurments to attach the factory frame horns to the front of the camaro clip for the rad support/bumper etc. I had to wing it and it probably didn't come out as clean as it could have. I figure that I probably swept up the paper with the info when cleaning the garage. Now, I keep a file folder with all of my info on each build. If you ever need to re-address something it will be great to have everything. Plus, the new owner would sure appreciate it if you ever sell it. Thanks again for the help guys! Its sure nice to have other guys doing the same swap for a reference. I will be starting a build thread soon. I am hoping to have this thing driving by spring.

Nik

[epon]

Thanks for the time you took to make and post the video. Super helpful in understanding the process. Really like your truck and build, hoping to use this and many other threads to get a similar truck built up someday.

[av8tr33337]

No Problem, glad to do it. Last weekend I did a little more on my radiator support. I bought a 65 mustang radiator (I think a 67 may have been a better choice as it is a couple of inches wider) I'm going to have to kick it out at the bottom a couple inches so I still need to make some brackets. I was out of gas for the welder. I made a boring video on that process as well. You will find it on the last page of my build thread. See signature below.

[Uncle Jimi]

Thanks for the info Bartman! Your "boring" video is spot on and has solved a million questions for me... short of one.

I'm lost on the running board mounts??? Do you have any rough measurements for the placement of the running board mounts in relation to the body mounts? As well as height in relation to the top of the frame rail? I understand the process of trial and error, clamping the boards to the front and rear fenders, and leveling.. but any ball park on placement would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance! And again, the video is extremely helpful!!

Holy moly! I just noticed this is my first post on this forum... My apologies for lurking so long.

[av8tr33337]

Originally Posted by Uncle Jimi

Thanks for the info Bartman! Your "boring" video is spot on and has solved a million questions for me... short of one.

I'm lost on the running board mounts??? Do you have any rough measurements for the placement of the running board mounts in relation to the body mounts? As well as height in relation to the top of the frame rail? I understand the process of trial and error, clamping the boards to the front and rear fenders, and leveling.. but any ball park on placement would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance! And again, the video is extremely helpful!!

Holy moly! I just noticed this is my first post on this forum... My apologies for lurking so long.

I'll get some for you tonight when I get home from work.

[av8tr33337]

Here ya Go Jim

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUd2P...ature=youtu.be