Having trouble with 3 on tree

[Pflugerman]

Had trouble with the 3 on tree shifting. Would get stuck between gears. I adjusted the collar under the hood and had great results for a couple of hours of driving. Then without warning it would not go into 1 and reverse no matter how I adjusted the collar, you know, where the linkage joins the column under the hood. Seems I need to rebuild it?

[WIDESIDE72]

Did you adjust the column by using the drill bit thru the hole method? Are your bushings good?

[briank]

Had the same problem, used all new bushings and adjusted with the drill bit method and so fat all is good. I bet your bushings are gone.

[stomper]

You have to be really deliberate with the shift pattern when it gets worn out like that. Dont push the lever straight from 1 to 2. Follow the H path. Make sure its out of one gear before shifting to the next. I drove both the 3ot trucks I had like that for years. Whenever I loaned the truck out I often had to go 'rescue' my friend because the shifter was stuck between gears.

[Pflugerman]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

Did you adjust the column by using the drill bit thru the hole method? Are your bushings good?

Actually the first part of the adjustment that I did not relate to the linkage alignment. All it does is tighten or loosen the levers. There is a collar with three bolts that you loosen and turn the collar to tighten or loosen. The adjustment I did worked flawlessly for a few hours. It was like it had all new stuff. It shifted smoothly. Later I checked the linkage adjustment by going to neutral position, used a 3/16 in bit to check that alignment you mentioned. And it lined up perfectly with no need to adjust. Linkage themselves are fine.

[Pflugerman]

How do I check the bushings?

[cdowns]

shifter bushings need replacement every 40years or so

worn body mount bushings can also b the source of shifter problems

[Pflugerman]

Originally Posted by cdowns

shifter bushings need replacement every 40years or so

worn body mount bushings can also b the source of shifter problems

How do I check the bushings?

[19673ontree]

I can drive my 67 24 hrs a day and never hang it up mine has 40 year worn bushings , but if anybody else drives my truck they hang it up ,,

[briank]

To check the bushings just look up top and underneath and see if there is slop or nice and snug. I ended up usinh bushings and the retaining clips off an unused hurst shifter I think.

[Pflugerman]

OK are we talking about the linkage bushings here? Dang I thought we were speaking of something internal. I appreciate everyone's input but this is something more than someone who cant see the obvious. The linkage bushings are like new from the previous owner. technically the relay lever (which is obviously spring activated) stays flat against the second and third tube lever. When you have the shifter lever in the cab placed in neutral and then pull in and lift up to go into reverse, the relay lever (under the hood) should push forward and be flat against the first and reverse tube lever and then push to the drivers side which would be reverse. No longer happening! Any ideas on what to do? Rebuild? Should I purchase another steering column and where? Same questions as before. Anyone selling steering columns???? WTB?

[pritch]

Have you tried giving the whole works a liberal dose of WD? They do get gummed up.

[Pflugerman]

I have sprayed lube on it but will do that again. Cant hurt. Thanks man. Does anyone have a posted diagram of the bottom half of the steering shaft?

Anyone sell drive shafts in here?

[9teen69]

I used the drill bit method and also replaced bushing on both lower linkage arms.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=1998024

The lower clamp for lack of better name was bent and hitting upper linkage arms, might want to check and make sure yours aren't bent.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Pflugerman

... technically the relay lever (which is obviously spring activated) stays flat against the second and third tube lever. When you have the shifter lever in the cab placed in neutral and then pull in and lift up to go into reverse, the relay lever (under the hood) should push forward and be flat against the first and reverse tube lever and then push to the drivers side which would be reverse. No longer happening!

So the relay lever isn't moving all the way forward against the 1st/rev tube lever?

Or is the relay lever moving into place okay but just not engaging with the 1st/rev tube lever?

Originally Posted by Pflugerman

Any ideas on what to do? Rebuild?

If it's a matter of the relay lever not engaging with the 1st/rev tube lever, take a close look at the little "tang" on the 1st/rev lever that's supposed to enter into the notch on the relay lever. Those tangs often get worn down after years of use ... especially the one on 1st/rev lever.

If it ends up being a worn tang, the fix would be to replace the 1st/rev tube lever (if you can find one). Or repair the existing part by building up the worn area with a mig welder and carefully grinding/filing it back to shape. Observe the shape of the tang on the 2nd/3rd tube lever for reference ... those don't tend to wear as much.

[Pflugerman]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

So the relay lever isn't moving all the way forward against the 1st/rev tube lever?

That is correct, Ray, and thanks folks for responding. Well that is mostly correct that is. The relay lever isn't moving forward at all! So anyone know where to get a rebuild kit? Do these things break or do they sometime need re-assembly you know tighten things up? The shifter arm inside the cab wont pull forward while in neutral to complete the "H" pattern.

[Pflugerman]

Originally Posted by 9teen69

I used the drill bit method and also replaced bushing on both lower linkage arms.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=1998024

The lower clamp for lack of better name was bent and hitting upper linkage arms, might want to check and make sure yours aren't bent.

Good idea but no it could clear with no problem on mine. It isn't bent.

[ubtripn]

X2 on being real deliberate, I grew up driving a 65 3 on a tree and would have to stop when I missed it and pop it by hand, I lubed it up and focused on my timing, it became a non-issue.

[Pflugerman]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

X2 on being real deliberate, I grew up driving a 65 3 on a tree and would have to stop when I missed it and pop it by hand, I lubed it up and focused on my timing, it became a non-issue.

You are right, column shifts are temperamental. I am an old guy. I drove 3 speeds during the 60s and 70s. But this one is broken I think. Anyone know how to fix it? Got one for sale? I guess I will have to resort to a Hurst shifter but I really wanted the old three on the tree.

Got to be someone who has torn into one of these that will have some insight.

[Pflugerman]

Any one ever have to replace the Steering Column Lower Bearing? doesn't it have a spring that rests on top and pushes the 1st & reverse lever forward?

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Pflugerman

That is correct, Ray, and thanks folks for responding. Well that is mostly correct that is. The relay lever isn't moving forward at all! So anyone know where to get a rebuild kit? Do these things break or do they sometime need re-assembly you know tighten things up? The shifter arm inside the cab wont pull forward while in neutral to complete the "H" pattern.

Okay, if the relay lever isn't moving forward and the shifter lever won't pull back towards you in neutral then something is definitely stuck or jammed up inside the column. When in neutral and you pull the shifter up towards you, the shifter lever pivots on the pin, causing the inner end of the lever to push the shift tube forward. The relay lever is attached directly to the lower end of the shift tube.

I know you've already sprayed it with some lubricant, but it might still have some old gummed up dried out grease in there that's keeping it from moving freely. The column shifter in my 72 was really hard to pull the shift lever back towards you in neutral ... especially in colder weather.

I tried spraying it with some lube too but it didn't help much. I ended up pulling the column out of the truck and disassembling the lower end as much as possible without removing the shift tube. That allowed me to clean out the old dried grease and dirt that had accumulated in there and was gumming up the works. After re-assembly with a light coat of fresh grease on the moving parts it works a whole lot better.

Unfortunately, I don't think anyone makes any rebuild kits for these columns so if you tear it apart and find excessively worn or damaged parts you'll probably have to see what you can find for NOS (new old stock) parts or look for another column. Also, if you don't have one already, I'd recommend picking up a copy of the factory service/repair manual. They show how to disassemble the column and how to re-adjust everything when you put it back together.

[9teen69]

Might be one for sale here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=617048

[Pflugerman]

That is very good information. Thanks. I am about to pull the column out and check it out. Question: You said you broke down your column yet didn't take out the shift tubes. Is there an issue to avoid by not taking out the shift tube?

[Pflugerman]

Thanks for the link!

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Pflugerman

Question: You said you broke down your column yet didn't take out the shift tubes. Is there an issue to avoid by not taking out the shift tube?

Not really. Once I started taking the column apart, it became evident that the problem in mine was the old dried out grease in & around the lever mechanisms at the lower end. So I just didn't bother with taking it all the way apart.

To get the shift tube out, you have to completely disassemble everything else first ... the shift tube is the last part to come out. The factory service manual recommends standing the mast jacket (that's the main tubular section of the column) upright on the floor and supported on two blocks of wood (so the shift tube can drop out between them). Then it says to push down on the 2nd/3rd lever with your foot while you use a block of wood & hammer to tap on the upper end of the shift tube. It also says that some cases might require the use of a press and warns to be careful not to damage either the shift tube or mast jacket in the process.