naval jelly on rust.

[hotrod66]

It is new to me so Thought I would share this stuff with you guys, maybe it will help someone else. I bought it at home depot. I applied it to the front lower half of my heavily surface rusted bed after a 80 grit flapper wheel failed to get it to bare steel, although I did use it on the whole bed to knock a lot of the build up off.

[hotrod66]

[The Rocknrod]

Looks great.
I've been using Ospho from Ace hardware, also impressive results.

[Lugnutz65]

I soak rusty bolts in it after I get off the scale rust. What I am not sure about is compatibility with primer and paint. As I understand it, Naval Jelly eats rust because it contains phosphoric acid. I just don't know if a simple water wash will be enough to remove the acid from the metal. Just food for thought.

[nsb29]

if you have to wash it off I would be worried about flash rust. if you use ospho under rustoleum your ok if you put it under urethane you will get tiny little spiders not right away but it will happen nothing beats media blasting and apoxsee primer

[hotrod66]

It is acid based so you use a base like soap to clean it up.the main reason for this is to avoid needing a large amount of midia blasting. I do plan on going over a few areas with a sand blaster,just wanted to minimize risk of warping.as for flash rusting dry it off to minimize flash rust ,your supposed to sand anyway before primer. Then after that some epoxy primer.

[TJ's Chevy]

I need about 100 gallons of that to dump on my frame. haha!

[tinydb84]

You can use certain epoxy primers without have to worry too much about the acid. Kirker is one of them. Some epoxy primers will fail quickly if it isnt neutralized, like SPI. Check out the giant ospho thread for details:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/osph...al-175465.html

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by hotrod66

It is acid based so you use a base like soap to clean it up.the main reason for this is to avoid needing a large amount of midia blasting. I do plan on going over a few areas with a sand blaster,just wanted to minimize risk of warping.as for flash rusting dry it off to minimize flash rust ,your supposed to sand anyway before primer. Then after that some epoxy primer.

I do it for a living and im very cautious what I use that could cause the paint to lift or have die backs but if you sand and blast it your ok

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

You can use certain epoxy primers without have to worry too much about the acid. Kirker is one of them. Some epoxy primers will fail quickly if it isnt neutralized, like SPI. Check out the giant ospho thread for details:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/osph...al-175465.html

Interesting.
I've been using products like Blue Lightning for years and years (since the 90's) and have cars I've built still winning shows that it was used on. Some times people don't use something and it scares them hence the negativity. It works, I use it, good enough for me.

[Lugnutz65]

First off, if I could afford to send off my body panels to be media blasted I would, but only if I trusted the blast shop enough to not warp the panels in the process of media blasting. The surface preparation meida blasting leaves is ideal for epoxy primer.

I'll humbly offer another option which to me seems both inexpensive and effective. I use a HF poly carbide disc on a grinder to remove paint and surface rust from body panels. I follow up with blasting media using my home system pressure pot.

The HF poly carbide disc does 95% of the work and leaves the metal smooth and clean WITHOUT chemicals. The spinning disc can't get into corners and has limitations, but there is not enough heat to warp metal if you keep moving.

Unlike media blasting, the poly carbide disc is inexpensive and easy to use without setup time. It minimizes the need for media blasting too. I like it most because it prepares the metal so you can then make a quick second pass over the metal with media blasting equipment and get the same media blasting texture results.

Here's a panel I did tonight. One side took 30 minutes. I used up about $1.50 morth of the $4.99 poly carbide disc. Like I said, it's effective and cheap for paint removal.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

... I use a HF poly carbide disc on a grinder to remove paint and surface rust from body panels. ...

That'l work, looks like a nice job. I will try that myself.

[hotrod66]

Under normal circumstances I to also use the poly carbide disks with grate results.the bed side in this particular case was left partially stripped and exposed to the elements for many years resulting in heavy pitting. The naval jelly was my last cry to try and eliminate the need for heavy blasting. This is what the bed looked like before I touched it. I tried the disks and flapper disks and that got me to the point just before I used the jelly.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by hotrod66

Under normal circumstances I to also use the poly carbide disks with grate results.the bed side in this particular case was left partially stripped and exposed to the elements for many years resulting in heavy pitting. The naval jelly was my last cry to try and eliminate the need for heavy blasting. This is what the bed looked like before I touched it. I tried the disks and flapper disks and that got me to the point just before I used the jelly.

So that others won't be discouraged, here's my tailgate before and after the poly carbide disc. Middle picture shows what one pass can do. The tailgate had been left open for years with a tremendous amount of surface rust resulting. All I'm saying is that it's worth a try. Cheap too.

[1963c-10]

x2 on the poly carbide disks....been using them for years.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

You can use certain epoxy primers without have to worry too much about the acid. Kirker is one of them. Some epoxy primers will fail quickly if it isnt neutralized, like SPI. Check out the giant ospho thread for details:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/osph...al-175465.html

I went on the ospho / forum ospho will kill the rust but if you paint over it you will have little spider die backs I don't care what he says

[hotrod66]

I am not bad mouthing the disks, i love them my self they do a awesome job at cleaning. but my bed was severely neglected the pits are far worse than they appear in the photo. it was on a farm for many years with grass growing all around and agents it holding moisture, the rear bottom 3 inches are all but gone and will have to be replaced the front is almost as bad. this is the first time the disks didn't get down to the metal. I am not trying to say the jelly is the only way to do this, it is a mere suggestion that is all. the jelly helped me out ,it is just one more technique among many to remove rust. I was not trying to start world war three. so if we could all stop acting like a group of teenage girls and just take it as suggestion I think we would be better off.

[Lugnutz65]

No teenage girls in this group. Your original post only mentioned a flap wheel so I was unaware that you knew about the poly carbide discs. Plus others who read this public forum gain insight from the experiences of others.

I use the Naval Jelly too.

So, no foul, no harm, no hurt feelings. We are all getting along just fine.

[jjzepplin]

Like I am a teenage girl so I like resemble that remark! So yeah-like what were we talking about?

[hotrod66]

Okay now that everyone is happy and laughing this is a close up on the worst of my bed.it was pretty ****y.

[chevyrestoguy]

I have used Naval Jelly and had good results. It can be a little slow, but it works. On any kind of "leave on" type of rust remover, I like to do a quick pass with a sanding disk before I apply the remover to open up the pores a little. If you're using a remover that has an acid base, you should always neutralize the part before you apply any epoxy primer. I use a gallon of warm water and a box of Arm & Hammer baking soda, stir it up and wash the part with a clean washcloth. Towel dry as quick as you can and keep it inside until you're ready to topcoat it.

I just discovered Evapo-Rust for dunking small rusty parts. Kinda expensive ($22 a gallon), but it can be reused over and over. Non-toxic and environmentally safe, which is usually not the case with any rust or paint removers.

[1963c-10]

I'm not knocking the navel jelly either by any means. Just saying that I have great results with the disks.

Vinegar is also a great rust remover. Can be picked up at most dollar stores for around $2/gallon. Pour in an old coffee can, drop parts in and let sit a few days.

Use the baking soda & water rinse here also.

I also use paint strainers to remove the particulate and store and reuse.

[Lugnutz65]

This thread has expanded beyond Naval Jelly.

Naval Jelly is nice for certain tasks because it clings to the surface. So it can easily be used on vertical surfaces. I'd place cellophane or plastic on top to prevent it from drying out too much if I leave it more than a few hours.

I have tried Evapo-rust. It works. It's expensive. It can be reused BUT . . . the life span depends entirely on how much rust you remove. For me, it was not practical for auto restoration.

I read about another acid product that works on another forum. It's used in the dairy industry. It's called Milkstone Wash. The cheapest place I could find it was TSC but they do not carry it where I live and tell me that I can't have it shipped here.

I'd like to buy some and try it because it's very concentrated and should work well. If anyone else can get some and try it, I'm sure we'd all like to know the results.

[hotrod66]

Any one used these,i found them a Wal-Mart there the same kind of material as a scotchbright pad. They work well for drip rails because there so skinny.

[franken]

Most anything with pho in the name is based on phosphoric acid. You can buy is cheap at the home store as concrete etch in the paint stripper section.
If you want it jellied, mix in some laundry detergent. I've heard Tide powder works.
Then there's molasses in a garbage can for big stuff.