Question about Porterbuilt upper / lower shock bar

[CC69Rat]

I am trying to install my upper / lower shock bar from Porterbuilt and I'm not sure I have it on correctly. If you are running this setup, could you please post up a picture of the lower bar, the brackets on the trailing arms, and how the shocks mount up? I have something on incorrectly and I'm having a hard time with it.

Also, does anyone know if PB offers a lower shock bar that might be different? Maybe one for leafs, one for coils? I really don't see how mine would / could work but maybe I have something on wrong. ..

The shocks are mounted on the top bar, but I don't see how they could line up with the lower bar and the orientation of the ends of the lower bar be correct (?) Also the tabs for the shocks on the lower bar seem to be too far apart.

Is the long wheel base shock bar different than the short wheel base?

[lolife99]

The lower shock tab is suppose to be on the front side of the bar.
Are the tubular ends welded at an angle or straight?

[CC69Rat]

They are on an angle somewhat the same as the trailing arms.

In my pictures above the tabs are on the 'wider' side in relation to the angle of the ends on the bar.

Its almost as if the tabs are on the wrong side of the bar maybe?
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[lolife99]

Any chance you can put the truck on jackstands and pull the rearend (left or right) with a ratchet strap?
Your track bar isn't installed.
Just wonder if the springs are pulling the trailing arms to one side and affecting the alignment of the lower shock bar brackets, installed on the trailing arms?

[CC69Rat]

We were working on the Track bar today and just didnt get to it.. ran out of time.

Im pretty sure the axle housing is squared up. But we can check it out.
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[NoNeck]

Chad, I have been researching to see if Nate offers 2 different shock bars with his kits, and it looks like he does.

The first photo is of the shock bar you have, and it measures 28-5/16" from shock hole to shock hole. It appears to be the shock bar from the Stage 2 Deluxe drop kit (see second photo borrowed from the Porterbilt website). I hope Nate doesn't mind me using the photos for comparison.

The third photo appears to be more correct... it is from the Stage 2 Basic kit. Note that the shock mounting plates look larger and extend away from the shock bar more than your bar. It also looks like it has a "V" bend in the center and looks shorter?

Not sure if this helps, but hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.

POP

[CC69Rat]

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[CC69Rat]

Bump -- can anyone shed some light on this for me please? My upper shock mounts are just like the ones Keith posted. They are positioned that same way. The problem is I don't see the bar working unless the tabs for the shocks on the bottom are on the other side of the bar.

If the bar is staight, but the ends are on an angle like the trailing arms my tabs are on the wider side of the bar (toward the rear of the truck) It looks like the tabs should be on the narrower side of the bar (toward the front of the truck)

Knock these tabs off and have someone re-weld them on the front of the bar?

[PBFAB.COM]

Here are some pics of the lower shock bar installed. From the pics you posted, it does appear that the tabs are on the wrong side of the bar. Not 100% as it's hard to tell from the pics... and it doesn't make a whole lot of sense as it would be extremely difficult to put them on that way with the fixture we use.

Take a peak at the pics and get back to me. If we need to whip another one out and ship it today we can make that happen. Let me know. We will make sure we get you taken care of quickly.

Nate

[CC69Rat]

Yeah, I think I have the wrong bar.. the tabs on mine are not quite that big and do appear to be on the other side. Maybe this one is for another application.. not sure. The one dad posted with the measurement is the bar I have.
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[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Yeah, I think I have the wrong bar.. the tabs on mine are not quite that big and do appear to be on the other side. Maybe this one is for another application.. not sure. The one dad posted with the measurement is the bar I have.
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So, you have the lower shock bar that is straight? If so, that one is for the deluxe kit that is used with our trailing arms.

Since you are running the factory arms you need the bent one that is supplied in our "Basic Kit".

Let me know how we can help.

Nate

[CC69Rat]

I guess Im in the market for another lower shock bar.. just need a price and maybe we get one on the ay when you can.

Maybe I can sell the other one or something.
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[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I guess Im in the market for another lower shock bar.. just need a price and maybe we get one on the ay when you can.

Maybe I can sell the other one or something.
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Do me a favor and send us an email porterbuiltdirect@gmail.com or give us a call 480-297-2621 and we will get you some pricing.

Nate

[CC69Rat]

Nate -- just for clarification, I bought this lower shock bar from a forum member and from what I understood it would work. I didn't realize there were two different types out there.

I want to be honest about it as I know how you are with Customer Service. (discount / special effort, etc.) I want you to understand, that even at my own expense if this is the wrong bar for my truck it is of no fault from you or your guys. If the tabs are in the right place for another application that's cool .. it's just not what I need for stock arms.

I do have another truck. Just sayin. Should it get the deluxe kit some day (?) I'm one step closer.

If you sensed frustration it's just how my luck goes. Thinking I was going to save a little $ getting something someone else just couldn't use for whatever reason, I never knew there was a difference. Looking at the pics Keith posted, I see it now.

I tried to call, left VM .. when you can if you will shoot me a PM with a total and your Paypal I'll get some $ over to you today.

As always, Thank You for stepping in to help me.
Chad

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Nate -- just for clarification, I bought this lower shock bar from a forum member and from what I understood it would work. I didn't realize there were two different types out there.

I want to be honest about it as I know how you are with Customer Service. (discount / special effort, etc.) I want you to understand, that even at my own expense if this is the wrong bar for my truck it is of no fault from you or your guys. If the tabs are in the right place for another application that's cool .. it's just not what I need for stock arms.

I do have another truck. Just sayin. Should it get the deluxe kit some day (?) I'm one step closer.

If you sensed frustration it's just how my luck goes. Thinking I was going to save a little $ getting something someone else just couldn't use for whatever reason, I never knew there was a difference. Looking at the pics Keith posted, I see it now.

I tried to call, left VM .. when you can if you will shoot me a PM with a total and your Paypal I'll get some $ over to you today.

As always, Thank You for stepping in to help me.
Chad

Chad-

Dave is about 20 emails away from jumping on the call backs. If we don't get a hold of you on the phone I will PM the info to ya!

Nate

[CC69Rat]

Nate - Email sent. Thank you.

[CC69Rat]

I'd just like to mention again, the top notch customer service from Porterbuilt. Nate personally took this issue and followed through until he knew the correct bar was on the way. Absolutely incredible, I have never been treated this way from any high end company.

I am relatively new to the 67-72 scene but this is definitely not my first restoration. I have been into Camaros for a LONG time and restored a few of them. People like Nate are what makes this a fun hobby. Yes, he's proud of his stuff but he has a really good reason to be. Take a look at the attention to detail in his parts. I bought some brackets for my track bar, shock bar (the ones on the trailing arms in the pictures) Those tabs are not just welded on, there are holes drilled into the main section of the bracket and recessed tabs into the holes, just to make it stronger and keeping the brackets from twisting I assume.

Say what you want to about notching, cutting frames to get these trucks to sit right and the suspension to perform like a newer car, but honestly with this much metal and triangulation, top notch welding and not to mention customer service too ? It is well worth the price paid IMO. Honestly, there is no way IMO that a PB setup could not be stronger than a factory frame. The suspension geometry is better, shock travel is better .. I could go on.

Nate, I'm blown away brother. Place an order, pay, and get conformation back as quickly as I did? You just earned yourself another customer when my stepper gets some lovin.

Thank you, really. You guys have really got it together. I also noticed your website and shopping cart stuff. It too looks great.

Not much else to say but just know I do appreciate you.
Chad

[Katrina/10]

Chad, where did you get the degree shims under your axle?

thanks

[CC69Rat]

Stockcarproducts.com. (?). Something like that. Lolife99 gave me the link. Ill see if I can find it.
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[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I'd just like to mention again, the top notch customer service from Porterbuilt. Nate personally took this issue and followed through until he knew the correct bar was on the way. Absolutely incredible, I have never been treated this way from any high end company.

I am relatively new to the 67-72 scene but this is definitely not my first restoration. I have been into Camaros for a LONG time and restored a few of them. People like Nate are what makes this a fun hobby. Yes, he's proud of his stuff but he has a really good reason to be. Take a look at the attention to detail in his parts. I bought some brackets for my track bar, shock bar (the ones on the trailing arms in the pictures) Those tabs are not just welded on, there are holes drilled into the main section of the bracket and recessed tabs into the holes, just to make it stronger and keeping the brackets from twisting I assume.

Say what you want to about notching, cutting frames to get these trucks to sit right and the suspension to perform like a newer car, but honestly with this much metal and triangulation, top notch welding and not to mention customer service too ? It is well worth the price paid IMO. Honestly, there is no way IMO that a PB setup could not be stronger than a factory frame. The suspension geometry is better, shock travel is better .. I could go on.

Nate, I'm blown away brother. Place an order, pay, and get conformation back as quickly as I did? You just earned yourself another customer when my stepper gets some lovin.

Thank you, really. You guys have really got it together. I also noticed your website and shopping cart stuff. It too looks great.

Not much else to say but just know I do appreciate you.
Chad

Thanks Chad!

We try our best in everything we do. We were fortunate that we had several of those bars in stock. We started transitioning from build per order to production runs.... and we had a handful of those on the shelf. Hopefully the new production schedule will help us get a little further ahead and cut back on the common build/wait time we have here at Porterbuilt.

Again, thanks for the positive feedback and we appreciate your business! The bar and sticker shipped yesterday.

Nate

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Stockcarproducts.com. (?). Something like that. Lolife99 gave me the link. Ill see if I can find it.
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I found them! Just like you said. Now, do you remember what degree you have?

Thanks!

[CC69Rat]

My truck will be dropped about 6.25" .. BUT, there are added touches to my setup.

6" Hotchkis rear drop springs. The trailing arm brackets have been swapped on the cross member. I used Hotchkis 'Anti-Squat' brackets to do it. Some guys will flip their stock trailing arm brackets over (so the mounting hole is on the top instead of the bottom) I won't lie to you man, it's TOUGH to do it. It's a lot of work, but your truck will thank you for it. By moving your trailing arm brackets, it will correct about 2-3 deg of pinion angle. (your truck will think it has only been dropped about 3-4" if you have 6" springs in it, just for example) Flipping the brackets will raise the height of the front of the trailing arms obviously and it rolls the back side of the trailing arm mounts (where the axle sits on the TA) down a little. This will also correct the geometry of the stock GM Truck arm suspension somewhat and give you more of that angle your truck had stock.

So, I say all that to say I used 3 deg shims in mine. I had an S10 I dropped 2.75" in the rear and used 3deg shims and it worked out perfectly. In all the research I have done, 3-4" drop usually = about 2-3deg shim to correct the pinion so I used the TA flip to correct 3", then 3deg shims to correct the other 3" drop. Make sense?

The only down fall is by flipping your trailing arm brackets, you will loose about .5 - .75" of drop. It shortens the distance between your frame rails and the spring perches too so the effective drop of say a 6" drop spring now becomes 5.25". .. IT kinda pushes the frame rail back up because that distance became shorter (spring perch to frame rail) and of course the spring is still the same height.

6" drop spring, 1" drop block = 7" drop, +.75" loss = 6.25" total drop on this truck.


Special thanks to Gringoloco for the information and help when I did mine!

[Katrina/10]

Wow, thanks for all the info! I just have 2 inch blocks on my truck, and the pinion is pointing up instead of down and makes an odd angle on the rear u joint. I think some 3 degree shims should bring it down to where I want it.