2-piece driveshafts?

[StoningtonQB]

I'm assuming that some of you have had to replace your 2-piece driveshafts. Where do you get them from?

[MidLifer]

This may be a naive answer, as I haven't had to do this, but I'm about to have to do it (doing a 700R4 swap into a manual truck) and I called a local driveline shop and they said they could make one up for me. The carrier bearing you can get from Rockauto or a local auto supply.

Are you looking to replace an old 2-piece with a new 2-piece or change it to a one-piece? Either way a driveline shop should be able to help.

I googled "driveline naugatuck CT" and "Saf-T Auto Centers" came up. You might try calling them.

[StoningtonQB]

They are just a general repair shop. I want to replace my existing 2-piece with an identical one. I can't swap out my carrier bearing because the u-joint mounting piece is frozen into place and it's cast iron.

[MidLifer]

OK, but they offer driveshaft balancing, so perhaps they can refer you to a driveline shop.

Or you can try some of the bigger truck parters on this list, like teeitup.

[Andy4639]

Any good hydrolic shop in your area should either do this service are know who does. I have had mine redone a couple of times.
Once had it redone when I bought the truck. Had new bearings and u joints installed and rebalanced.
Then had it cut for the 700r4 install and now it's going through this again for the 4l80e install.
A transmission shop should know also are a mechanic.

[Rochlow]

Originally Posted by StoningtonQB

They are just a general repair shop. I want to replace my existing 2-piece with an identical one. I can't swap out my carrier bearing because the u-joint mounting piece is frozen into place and it's cast iron.

If your replacing the carrier bearing and u joints, you should be able to add some heat to the slip/carrier bearing yoke and a few blows with a hammer should get it to break loose allowing you to disassemble it.

[StoningtonQB]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

If your replacing the carrier bearing and u joints, you should be able to add some heat to the slip/carrier bearing yoke and a few blows with a hammer should get it to break loose allowing you to disassemble it.

Unfortunately, I can't change the carrier bearing because I can't get the top piece separated, even with lots of torch heat, a can of penetrating oil, and about 3 hours of whacking away on it. It's frozen.

[Sicklajoie]

I'm guessing from your pics that you have a coil spring rear.
Is this what your carrier bearing bracket looks like?

[StoningtonQB]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

I'm guessing from your pics that you have a coil spring rear.
Is this what your carrier bearing bracket looks like?

That's the one. I actually have a new carrier bearing. I just can't get the driveshaft separated after I take out the u-joint to be able to install it. And yes, coil spring rear.

[passthebuck]

I couldn't get mine apart either & I didn't want to mess up the balance of the drive-shaft by hammering away on it so I used my steering wheel puller like this one:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/414l7xeAn3L.jpg

& trimmed the end off of one of the legs about 1/4" so it would fit into the empty bearing "circles". It didn't pull super straight but it didn't need to. I put the ratchet to it & it pulled the yolk off right quick.

[Billett]

Any big rig type repair shops near you should be able to make you one easy. I had my carrier bearing replaced when they cut and balanced mine for the LS swap. I just told them the make model and year of the truck and they found one for me.

[Sicklajoie]

Originally Posted by Billett

Any big rig type repair shops near you should be able to make you one easy. I had my carrier bearing replaced when they cut and balanced mine for the LS swap. I just told them the make model and year of the truck and they found one for me.

I agree.
Since you're going to have to have it rebalanced anyways, I'd take your whole broken setup along with the new carrier bearing over there and have them pull it apart, replace the u-joints, and rebalance it.
I had a carrier bearing bracket break on me a while back, and to install the new bearing (which I had already bought), have new u-joints put in, and get it rebalanced ran me about 100 bucks I think.

[brad_man_72]

If you haven't ruined the parts by heating them you should be able to get away with a new carrier, straighten, and ballance. If the stub and bolt on yoke are ruined there's better replacement parts available.
Since when changng parts on a 2 piece driveline it needs to be ballanced by a driveline shop its usually easier and cheaper to have them do the works. Experience and the right tools can really come in handy when working on something as sensitive as a multiple piece driveline.

[ZombieWeinerDog]

Here is my 2 piece after breaking the carrier bearing a few times. new setup is rock solid and didnt cost that much.

[brad_man_72]

A billet carrier bearing $100
Slip and stub $100
2 piece ballance $50

Having the driveshaft ballanced properly so the factory carrier bearing bracket doesn't break. $50

People can fix their shafts any way they choose, there's no way id ever recomend the billet carrier route.

[kamikazekyle05]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

A billet carrier bearing $100
Slip and stub $100
2 piece ballance $50

Having the driveshaft ballanced properly so the factory carrier bearing bracket doesn't break. $50

People can fix their shafts any way they choose, there's no way id ever recomend the billet carrier route.

Why wouldnt you recommend the billet carrier?

[ZombieWeinerDog]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

A billet carrier bearing $100
Slip and stub $100
2 piece ballance $50

Having the driveshaft ballanced properly so the factory carrier bearing bracket doesn't break. $50

People can fix their shafts any way they choose, there's no way id ever recomend the billet carrier route.

my drive shaft never broke from being unbalanced. it broke from pot holes and railroad tracks.