Pinion angle Now adjustable

[1LowToy]

I went the poorboy route when I did my flip kit. I used and axle perch from the local Tractor Supply store. The perch worked fine but the pinion angle was nothing but a guess. So I came up with this for a solution.

4 3/8 x2" bolts
4 3/8 x1" bolts
4 all thread 3/8" nuts
A short or shortened 3" drill bit.

I drilled the factory axle perches front and rear of the axle tube and installed the 3/8" fasteners as ahown in pic 1&2. Drilling will require an angle drill or a short or shortened drill bit. Simply not enough room for a standard drill. I found Sears has short drill bits for angle drills but Sears is a 100 mile round trip for me. So I shortened a 3/8 drill bit.

Set the rear axle on ramps and lifted the front of the truck to level the transmission. See pics 3&4.

Next I placed the level on the differential cover bolts. Just by luck the magnets on the level fit right on the bolts. See pic 5. Next option was to remove the differential cover for a flat surface. Crack loose the axle U bolts and adjust as needed. I adjusted mine to about a half a bubble of with the pinion angle down. I'm shooting for 2 to 3 degees down on the pinion.

Tighten the U bolts and test drive to check for vibrations. All good? get the new axle perches welded to the axle tube.

The shock extentions are going on tonight. I made those too. Im cheap so what.

Let me know what ya think.

[lilpoindexter]

Are you sure those aren't going to loosen up over time?

[1LowToy]

After some test driving the perch is going to be welded to the axle, like factory. I'll save the hardware for the next one.

[Hertzdaddy]

Very handy.

You can get a cheap angle finder at any hardware store and check your pinion angle relative to the transmission output very easily. Lots of info on the net about what is ideal.

I'd be very careful about getting on the throttle too much while you are testing. Unfortunately one of the things I'd want to test would be traction from a dead stop.

Generally speaking though, if you liked the way it worked before the flip then just adjust your rig until the factory perch is equal distance from the spring surface front and rear and you should be good to go. That seems to work for those flip kits that use the locator brackets.

[1LowToy]

Have you seen any angle sets that are degreed in hardware stores? I haven't really looked closely but I would like something a little better than just crackin a bubble.

You'd be surprised how far of you are with just a quick measurement. That's what I did when I first put it together. When I checked it yesterday and it was off. Then I came up with this solution. If I had a larger drill bit (7/16 to 1/2") to go with larger bolts I'd put some throttle to it. I don't think I'd go too hard with the 3/8" bolts that I have. But my 250CI might surprise me too. I think the main thing your looking for is a none vibrating drive shaft and a non binding U joint. I'd be willing to bet several of the marketed flip kits aren't perfect.

[Hertzdaddy]

I got my angle finder at Lowes for cheap.
Posted via Mobile Device

[1LowToy]

Hmm

I think I like this one, if the digits are big enough for this old fart to read

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

I am cheap but I like easy

[rayfinseats]

Research it...

[Hertzdaddy]

Originally Posted by 1LowToy

Hmm

I think I like this one, if the digits are big enough for this old fart to read

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

I am cheap but I like easy

I'm not sure that one will do what you need it to do. It needs to measure the angle relative to earth. Then you can get the pinion and tailshaft angles relative to each other. Those are the angles that matter. I bought this one and it does the job fine.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Research is a good idea too.

[1LowToy]

I'm here to admit possible defeat.

I did some checking and I don't think taking an angle measurement from the transmission pan mountings is correect. I don't think the trans pan is parallel to the drive train.

I HOPE I DIDN'T MAKE ANYONE WELD UP A BIG MISTAKE!!!!

I'm thinking I need to remove the drive shaft to measure it there, or...?

[Keith Seymore]

Read through these, digest/memorize them and see if they help. I would be happy to answer any specific questions you might have after you have done so:















Bottom line is that it doesn't matter whether the nose of the truck is up or down, or where the earth is or where the frame is: the U joint only cares about the working relationship between the input side and the output side.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by 1LowToy

Hmm

I think I like this one, if the digits are big enough for this old fart to read

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

I am cheap but I like easy

You need something more like the "Swanson Tool Company Magnetic Angle Finder" for $10.28, shown just below it.

K

[1LowToy]

I've taken the truck for a ride and all is smooth. That alone does not make it right yet. I took the angle measurement for the front from the flat pan surface of the tranny. I'm not sure if it is parallel with the output shaft of the transmission. After popping the hood the engine did not look to be the same level as the trans pan. in so giving me a very eronious figure to work with. The best way would be using the universal joint cups as shown in the artical provided by Mr Seymore. I think I'm on the right track using the adjusters that I made but, the measurements need to be correct before pouring the cement (welding).

Thanks again Keith

[Keith Seymore]

I agree - and you are welcome.

K