Servicing the rear end hubs on a dually

[SCOTI]

Any tips on what I can use to install the bearing races w/o damaging them?

I had to go neanderthal on them to get them out (Dana 70hd). Everything I picked up in the shop couldn't be used to knock the races out so I'm pretty sure I'll need to find alternatives for driving the new units in (w/o damage ).

[OldCreek]

There are kits with different size drivers to install races. I have one and it is, essentially, aluminum pucks of different sizes with a center hole to attach a handle. You then tap it in with the handle/hammer. You could use an appropriate sized wooden block, too...

[Tx Firefighter]

He's what I used. Northern Tool has the set on their clearance rack right now for 6 bucks.

[crashz]

Back in 1991, I rebuilt a 14-bolt FF for my 83. If I remember right, the carrier bearings were pressed on and all other bearings I intalled with a brass drift. Probably not kosher, but it worked and the rear is still together today after much abuse off road and towing.

You just have to be real careful about driving the races on square and even and seat them fully. You also lose a good bit of brass chunks, so safety glasses are important.

[Mr.green]

Put them in the freezer over night.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Mr.green

Put them in the freezer over night.

They'll shrink up enough? We have deep freezers @ work.....

The 'race driver' kits @ my LAPS don't go large enough for both races (only large enough for the smaller/easier one to access).

I considered the punch method, but research says when using a punch for install, they're prone to getting damaged (which I felt was accurate being down that far into the hub & what it took to pound them out). I don't want to kill the new bearings I'm putting in because I fubar'd the race on install.

I was hoping there was a simple solution that I hadn't considered/thought of.

[Mr.green]

They should. I rebuild old wood working machinery and I have had to heat bearings and freeze shafts. Bearing slips right on/in. Just an option for you to try.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Mr.green

They should. I rebuild old wood working machinery and I have had to heat bearings and freeze shafts. Bearing slips right on/in. Just an option for you to try.

Worth a try then.

I spoke w/a buddy that works @ a GM dealership. He found one tech that thinks he has the right size driver for the big bearing. If the freeze method doesn't work, I'll pay my buddy a visit tomorrow.

[mrolds88]

And if you can heat the hub, that might help also. Think oven vs torch though.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

And if you can heat the hub, that might help also. Think oven vs torch though.

No oven available. Hhmm.... there's always a grille somewhere nearby though

[mrolds88]

That might work too!!

[franken]

Yup. Heat expands metal, while cold (well, less heat) contracts. So put the races in the freezer, and the hub in the oven.

Get some PVC pipe from the home store, the right size, or cut it down lengthwise and shrink the diameter with hose clamps and tap the race in. Or just slowly work it in.

There are vids on the internet... Some better than others.

[SCOTI]

Well I tried to get things assembled but as I feared, that stupid outer bearing race (the one that gets the snap ring) is not wanting to go in. The weird part is I had my bearing placement incorrect earlier when I created my original post.....

I thought the outer bearing was the one I didn't have the installation tool for. Turns out, the larger OD bearing was the inner/more accessible one & the one I didn't have the correct size die for. I used the old bearing race (inverted) to get the new race started to the point I could utilize a brass punch to fully seat it. No problem there.

I moved on to the outer bearing thinking it would be easy because I had the installation tool. I packed the bearing w/grease & dropped it down into the hub. Next, I sat the race into position. I put the tool on it as square as possible & started tapping it into position. After repeated tries, it repeatedly walked one way or the other & would not go straight in.

I thought maybe I wasn't 'tapping' straight enough so I went up to work to use the press & take my left handed swing out of the equation. I trued the hub on the press. I sat the race in there as square as possible. I put the tool on the race & it appears/appeared plumb. But, as soon as I start compressing the assembly, the tool & race start going crooked.

I had a guy @ work watch me to see if he felt I was doing something to cause it to shift out of alignment & he felt I was doing things right. If I tried 'trueing' the race, it wouldn't budge. He questioned if I had the right bearing/race assembly (which has me wondering now).

I was able to knock the new race back out so I started researching rear wheel bearing choices to see what should fit. The previous units were Timken (engraved in the races); the replacements I'm trying to install are 'National Bearing' brand but I can't seem to find a cross reference chart to validate p/n's. If I use Oreilly's/Autozone's search feature, several choices fit 10.5" rears (no indications of Dana 70 specific numbers).
Napa has their own line so it wasn't much help.
Rock Auto was similar to the Oreillys/AutoZ w/multiple options that fit 10.5" rears.

Frustrating.....

[willett]

Big ass socket or pipe, I really don't like using a punch unless I absolutely HAVE to!

[rs74]

Do you have a micrometer to measure everything for size?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rs74

Do you have a micrometer to measure everything for size?

I just have a 'cheapish' digital caliper @ my shop but we do have a micrometer @ work. I just went & documented the bearings & races that were installed:

Inner bearing: Timken 387AS
Inner race : Timken 382A

Outer bearing: Timken LM 104949
Outer race : Timken LM 104911

The outer bearing/race assembly that I got from Oreilly's is National Bearing p/n A-38. I'm going to try & verify (cross reference) p/n's again now that I have the previous info in front of me.

[SCOTI]

Cross referencing took a little effort but the Federal-Mogul (National Bearing) p/n's cross-over & match the Timken p/n's I removed. The A-38 'set' = LM104949/LM104911

Now I'm going to measure new vs old. Maybe the wrong parts were put in a box??

[franken]

Sounds like you know what you're doing, but didin't try the cold, hot part, or getting the parts lined up 1st.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by franken

Sounds like you know what you're doing, but didin't try the cold, hot part, or getting the parts lined up 1st.

Well the cold/hot would have taken some doing since I don't personally have an oven or a grille. I planned to use a propane torch for the heat & put the races in a deep freezer overnight tonight if things didn't go well this morning. Every time I attempted to knock the race into place, the 'tool' was as plumb/vertical as possible so my 'alignment' was correct.

But..... They're installed. The right tools make a BIG difference w/the installation. No changes on installation technique. No changes in my 'procedure'. I even had to show the tech @ my buddies work the order of assembly (he said it had been 10+yrs since he'd messed aroung w/C30 hubs). A few good whacks using his driver vs the aluminum store brand unit & it was in. I did use the alum driver to knock it in further (to the point the snap ring could be installed)....

[SCOTI]

Just a couple follow-up questions.....

If I understand correctly, the rear hub bearings are done similar to how the front spindle/hub bearings are done:

• Tighten the bearing nut down to recommended specs (50ft/lbs in the case of the Dana 70hd rear according to my service manual) while turning the hub.
• Back off the nut until loose enough to turn by hand but not exceeding 1-notch on the nut.
• Align the closest notch in the nut w/the keyway on the axle tube.

Sound right??

And....

The new-drum/rebuilt hub assemblys were re-installed over new brake shoes & hardware. The adjusting nut for the shoes on both sides are adjusted 100% in. There is zero drag on the pass side & moderate drag on the drivers side. I backed off the tension rod for the e-brake & it sure seems loose but there's still some drag @ the drum.

Am I missing something here as far as adjustment? I'm extra concerned because this side was the worst of the 2 as far as material remaining on the shoes (all friction material was gone & it was metal to metal contact before servicing).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

And....

The new-drum/rebuilt hub assemblys were re-installed over new brake shoes & hardware. The adjusting nut for the shoes on both sides are adjusted 100% in. There is zero drag on the pass side & moderate drag on the drivers side. I backed off the tension rod for the e-brake & it sure seems loose but there's still some drag @ the drum.

Am I missing something here as far as adjustment? I'm extra concerned because this side was the worst of the 2 as far as material remaining on the shoes (all friction material was gone & it was metal to metal contact before servicing).

Figured this one out.... I had backed off the adjustment rod for the e-brake (from it's original position) when the rear end was re-installed. The more I kept thinking about it, I decided that would be the easiest item to 100% eliminate from the possibilities. I backed off the tension nut completely @ lunch today & there's zero drag on the driver side now.

Glad I checked this 1st. My 2nd choice was to disassemble/remove the hubs from the rear end & swap them side-to-side to see if the issue followed the drum/hub or stayed on the drivers side. Much less work

[Tx Firefighter]

Scot, I have all the factory service manuals. I can get you pictures of anything you need out of them.