anyone with a 383 stroker?????

[Wabash]

i am just going to start building one of these gems but first id just like to ask you guys have for parts in yours.
for instince what type heads you used,crank,pistons,how much you bored your block,cam all the goodies.would love to know the perfect combo for one of these.

and also do they sell whole kits with everything you need or????

any help would be appreciated.

thanx Wabash

[eminentbass]

If your looking for about 450-500hp the edelbrock rpm combo is a good way to go.
heads, intake,carb,cam, bore 30-60 thousands
roller valvetrain steel crank (out of 400 or a custom stroker one) and that should do it.

[69 longhorn]

2 bolt 10/20 block,+030 ,square decked,Scat crank,prepped 5.7 rods,flattop hyperutectic pistons,balanced,Edelbrock rpm heads,intake ,carb,Comp cams XE 268. It makes about 390 hp,& a tork band that is flatter than hell! Peak tork is in the 440 range @ 3500,but pulls over 400 ft lbs from 2500-5000......real good street manners. 69 longhorn.

[Stroker]

Wabash, how are you planning to use your truck and what level of performance are you wanting to achieve? Tranny? Gears....ect? The 383 like most engines can be built a number of different ways from a mild daily driver to a hiperformace thumper cranking out over 500HP. Budget and your intended usage will determine a many of your options.

[stllookn]

Chevy High Performance magazine just started a HT 383 build-up. June issue is where it started...check it out.

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'67 C10 Long fleet w/wheezebag 305 and TH400
'67 C10 Short stepside w/283 and a powerglide
400 small block with the Weiand Tower of Power looking for a home!

[The Blue Pig]

350 4-bolt, bored 30 over and honed with 400 grit stones for plasma-moly rings. End gap-.oo4 per bore. All bolt holes on deck tapped. 4340 forged eagle with 3.75 stroke, indexed with .125 fillet radius. Small block Chrysler rods (6.123, .927 small end) to try and keep a desent rod ratio ( the better the rod ratio, the longer your piston will dwell @ TDC while crank truns, normally lost when you stroke an engine and use regular rods). Custom cut pistons from Venolia with a Comp. distance of 1.027, 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 flattops with valve reliefs and lightweight .927 wristpins. With dome or reverse dome, you will start to lose a desent quench area, and the flame-front has to travel uphill. Lunati H235-245, 235 degrees 245 degrees duration @ .050 lift. .507 intake, .537 exhaust, 110 degree lobe seperation, 19 degrees of overlap, centerline @ 106 degrees. Double roller timing chain, chrome moly pushrods, roller rockers with a 1.5 ratio. Either buy cylinder heads, or you could port and polish and "blueprint". 200cc intake runners, 2.02 intake valve backcut 35 degrees. 64-70cc exhaust runners, 1.60 valve. Headers with 1 3/4 primaries and 3 inch collectors. Good intake, good carbueration (or fuel injection if you can afford it), good ignition system, etc. etc.

[GREEN70-72]

THE ONE IN MY CAR IS A 4 BOLT STUDDED MAINS, LUNATI CRANK, 6" STREET RACE RODS, K/B FLAT TOPS, AFR 210 HEADS 11.1 COMP. SOLID CAM 256/270 500/515. MATCH PORTED TO HEADS VICTOR JR. 1" 4 HOLE BG CARB SPACER. 750 RACE DEMON. FULL MSD IGNITION(6A,BLASTER,PRO BILLET DIS.)KN 3" FILTER AND EXTREME LID. 125 N2O. NOS POWER SHOT. 8-AN FUEL LINE FROM TANK TO CARB. HOLLY BLUE MAX FUEL PUMP(ELECTRIC) HOLLY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR. O SIDE NOTE MARCH PULLEYS AND BRACKETS. HAD PROBLEMS THROWING BELTS WITH OEM PULLEYS.

[superchevy]

I have a 388 ( 60 over 350 ). 4-bolt block, Scat crank, Scat rods, KB Hypereutectics at 9.7:1, Lunati nitrous cam 225/235 dur at 50, 477/507 lift. TrickFlow heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM, Edelbrock 750 carb.
Built by strokermotor.com here in Dallas.
Dyno'ed at 430hp and 470lbft torque.
Idles great at 800 rpm and hauls a@# when you hammer it.
SC

[MikeB]

Stroker asked the right question. Also, what rear axle do you have, or plan to use? Here's what I learned building mine: 1.) If you use standard rods and rod bolts you'll need to grind a little metal off some of the rod bolt heads for cam clearance. An alternative is to use a smaller base circle cam. The best way to go is to use a rod, like a Lunati, that has the clearance built-in. I beleive SCAT and Eagle make similar rods that are less expensive than the Lunatis. Make sure to use 5.7" or 6.0" rods, not the stock 5.565" 400 rods. They create too much "angularity." 2.) A mild cam in a 350 is a VERY MILD cam in a 383. You can probably get away with 216-220 degrees intake duration, even with a 3.08 axle. Just make sure you have enough static compression for the cam. Too little compression for a late intake closing point and you'll make less torque. Even with my mild 210/210 cam I run 9.3:1 static compression, and can use regular gas. Of course, I achieved this with a .005" deck height and a detonation-resisting .043" quench height, but that's another story. A good 383 reference book is "John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines." He discusses rods lengths, rod clearance, cams, etc. It's $12 at Amazon.com.


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MikeB
69 C-10 Fleetside, mild 383, Dart Iron Eagle heads, Crane Energizer 266 cam and 1.6 roller rockers, Edelbrock Performer manifold and 600cfm carb, HEI w/ MSD components, 1986 front spindles/disc brakes, Vintage Air in-dash.

[Beast388]

I built mine with the parts listed in my signature. I used the stock 350 block out of the Suburban. I had it 90 degree square decked so that the pistons are .004 in the hole, align bored, race prepped, balanced etc etc. I clearenced the block myself for the H-beam rods and smoothed all of the oil gallies. I also ported and polished the heads myself and put the motor together as well.

I have an excel spreadsheet showing all of the parts and part numbers if anyone wants it.

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71 GMC Suburban 4X4
The "Beast"
388 CID Stroker, Scat crank, H-beam steel rods, KB Pistons, Speed-Pro Moly Rings, Clevite bearings, Speed-Pro High Volume oil-pump, Comp Cams 254H 4X4 Xtreme cam, SR Torquer 2.02/1.60 heads, Comp springs, Trick Flow pushrods, Comp Roller Rockers, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 3310 750cfm Holley, Summit HEI, MSD 6AL, Built TH350 Transcat Supper II shift kit 2000 RPM Stall, 4" Rough Country Lift....etc.

[chaptr2]

My set up is as follows.

70 GMC short bed stepside truck with a 3.73 posi, HAL coil overs for the rear with KYB front shocks, and two-inch drop springs in the front. Also the truck has had power steering, disc brakes, line lock, 5 lug axles, Auburn Posi unit added, and has had the engine moved forward in the V8 position from the original strait six location.

The bottom end consists of 350 block bored .060 over, 400 crank, Eagle 5.7 4340 H-beam rods, JE Forged pistons with a -.240 dish to make 8.5:1 compression, Grant molly rings, Fluidampr, balanced, and has Miloden copper head gaskets. The top end consists of Comp Cams K-kit, Bare cast 64cc sportsman II heads with some serious work to them, Manley sever duty pro flow valves 2.02/1.60 with Crane roller rockers, hardened push rods with guide plates. On top a Weiand 142 blower, with 7-inch bottom pulley to make over 8 psi of boost and the blower intake manifold is gasket matched to the heads. 5 inch tall K&N with an Extreme filter top, MSD distributor, MSD 6BTM, and MSD Master blazer 3 coil. Right now 750 Edelbrock, but have the 975 Demon, BG220HR electric fuel pump, 10an/8an fuel lines, and 21gallon Blazer tank.


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Supercharged 388 stroker in a
70 GMC Short box stepside
72 K/5 Blazer