Once was long, but now is short!

[Travs70]

I needed a somewhat inexpensive truck that would haul all my people and pull my trailer. I decided to join the CCSB crowd and shorten this 1991 1 ton SRW truck that I bought off of CL. It has 350 tbi, 4l80e, and silverado pkg.

[Travs70]

more pics!

[Travs70]

some more pics!

[jayman68]

Looking good. That is a good idea using the swingset.

[Travs70]

more pics

[scottco]

Cool !!! Keep the pictures coming !!!!

[texasfunk]

Cool! Ill be following this! I want to do mine next...only thing im going to say which I already kno is reinforce the hell outta it! Alot of people are gonna give you crap for doing a straight butt...not the strongest..
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[Pop's C-10]

Kidd: Daddy, why is tha truck playing on my swing set?...

Dad: Well son/daughter, truck like to play too...

Kidd: Ok...

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by texasfunk

only thing im going to say which I already know is reinforce the hell outta it! Alot of people are gonna give you crap for doing a straight butt...not the strongest..
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ESP on a tow rig. Reinforce it with diamond shaped plate steel medallions inside and out. Don't forget the top and bottom of the rails.

[texasfunk]

[pat386]

Only thing I would of done different is not do a straight cut. But otherwise, great job! Just put a liner in behind it for security
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[Desert1957]

next time IMO would only do it like this, 10 times stronger.




Reinforce it with diamond shaped plate steel medallions inside and out. Don't forget the top and bottom of the rails.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Travs70]

While I appreciate everyones opinion about the way I cut the frame, I would like to say that it was welded by a professional welder and I have seen numerous 10 and 18 wheelers that have been cut straight. I don't think I will be hauling that much. In the step weld there is more weld area, but there are also corners in which cracks may form in the heat affected zone of the weld.


Please read the frame splicing commandmants toward the end of this article.

http://trailer-bodybuilders.com/mag/...es/index1.html

[gofastbobby]

keep the pics coming

[rustyrodknocker]

Originally Posted by Travs70

While I appreciate everyones opinion about the way I cut the frame, I would like to say that it was welded by a professional welder and I have seen numerous 10 and 18 wheelers that have been cut straight. I don't think I will be hauling that much. In the step weld there is more weld area, but there are also corners in which cracks may form in the heat affected zone of the weld.


Please read the frame splicing commandmants toward the end of this article.

http://trailer-bodybuilders.com/mag/...es/index1.html

Exactly. too many fish plates is overkill and will do more harm than good. many big rigs are only bolted together with splice plates. no welding. especially aluminum frames. all your structural shaps are butt welded. the filler metal is designed to compensate with its higher tencil strength. further more, the frame forward of the front spring hanger is actually being pushed up the road. So it is under compression load while the frame behind the rear hanger is under tencel load, while towing. articulation is what will find the weak spot in a frame.

[jitteryguy]

looks good, I'm think'n of a short bed for my Dually.
I am curious to see how you modifi the brake lines and where the drive shaft is short'nd.

[stroker87]

I remember seeing a article a while back that cut the frame same as you but the section that was removed cut down and welded back together then welded in the frame it was simple enough and really beefed up the section

nice work by the way! I really like seeing the square body 4 door short beds

[pat386]

I have never seen a big truck frame spliced using bolts. Have not seen aluminum frames in 20+ years. Those that were usually had a steel liner
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[clemsparks]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

next time IMO would only do it like this, 10 times stronger.

I realize this is probably an exaggeration and want to point it out as exactly that (an exaggeration). Unless you have some calculations to share to prove it (in which case, feel free to share!).

Clem

[Desert1957]

Clem,

You are correct , maybe 10 times is an exaggeration. But my only concern , since we are talking about a truck is strength and future cracking issues.

I have been involved with many HotRod related projects, and have modified frames with my fellow Rodders. We all agree a stagger cut is stronger.

Here is a link from a miller welding site. I thought it was an interesting read.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...p/t-21609.html

this one from a GM web site see page #8

http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/d...DPDF/INTRO.PDF

Just appears to us everyone else does it like this.

http://www.truckinweb.com/features/0...ng_column.html

Desert

[rustyrodknocker]

there is nothing wrong with doing a staggered cut and it may be better than a straight cut. I would prefer a 45. but what most publications in whatever type media assume is that we are home hobbyists or amateures. by inlarge that is correct.
this does have a certain influence on what becomes the norm. but some people are professionals and can draw on their personal experience and training.
I can remember when the car magazines first started doing how to's on mig welding. I was thinking "great now everyone is going to have a metal caulking gun!" But people tend to overcompensate for there lack of knowledge, and we dont hear of many failures. which is better than the opposite. fortunately these extreme rat rods that are tacked a 1000 times with a self shielded fluxcore. because the kid just bought the machine at the home depot last week, and cannot manage a continuous bead. do not get many miles.
If one of those hair pin mounts snap on the highway. the public is at serious risk. this is why I would encourage everyone to either work with a pro on the structural parts. or get some training at a community college or trade school before welding on something that lives may depend on.

[yousesteers]

Most frames on Dump trucks that are stretched are straight cut and then plated. It will not matter what the cut is if the weld is not quality. This looks good no reason it will not hold

[Goldfinger]

For future reference it is a good idea to add a 1/8" gap so that you can get it hotter and deeper with more complete fusion.

[Mike Bradbury]

A36 (low carbon steel) which is what most frames are made of has a tensile strength of around 50,000 psi. Standard E70s .030 solid MIG wire has a rating of 70,000 psi. A quality weld is stronger than the parent metal. The fish plates are there for the "so I can sleep at night" factor. You don't see fish plates on buildings when I beams are welded together. A certified welder who is used to welding X-ray quality will have no problem welding a straight cut butt weld. Having a bit of a gap is preferable with MIG, but a double bevel is just as good.
If you had a pro do it I would not give it a second thought.

[Travs70]

I posted pictures of my truck to maybe inspire someone to try working on theirs in the driveway. I do alot of work alone and have to be creative sometimes, like removing the bed with the swingset. I love cars, trucks, motorcycles, or anything with a motor and wheels, and like to see what everyone else is doing. I get ideas from other people's work, but I dont criticize or ridicule their work when they don't do it like I would have done it. I didnt start this thread to have a debate over frame sectioning methods. It seems as though we all violate the "dont cut the flanges" rule. And I have seen much worse things done to a frame. My dad and I have had to weld a frame back together that was completely broken in half because of a bolted in c-notch.

My frame was straight cut and double beveled. It was welded using a Miller dialarc 250 and 7018 rods. A piece of the frame that was removed was used to box the frame for as far as I could box it between the members. I am going to ride in it with my family and feel safe. What you other guys do is up to you.