Accurate Top Fitment - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TonyJohnson · 08-02-2009, 12:33 PM

Replacing a double wall top with a single and need to drill the holes. The question is how do these tops fit in relation to the doors, drip rail, back rail, and inside top rails?

1. Does the inside leading edge of the tops drip rail line up with the edge of the door jamb. On this pic it's about 3/8" back. What's correct?
2. Looking at the back, top, driver's side of the fender, where does the drip rail run in correct position?
3. On the inside, the top rail of the bed is shaped like the bottom rail of the top. Should these be lined up perfectly (so that if I ran my finger down the intersection of the two, they would be in the same position, top to bottom?
4. Does the top drip rail meet the windshield drip rail, or is there a gap?
5. Am I being too anal...

Lastly, I know the body sags but mine has a 6-point cage and is fairly stiff. Does it make any sense to try to force the top into correct position or should I wait until restoration to try to get it right? I just don't want to break the top... Thanks, in advance,

Tony

TonyJohnson · 08-03-2009, 10:42 AM

I guess nobody has their top on...

**lks dcvn** · 08-03-2009, 05:19 PM

Tony - I just got home from work and snapped some pix of the project in my yard...(it still has the top on it).

This is a single wall top...the body mounts and the windshield frame need work - but the bedsides/top measurements should be legit since they are bolted down.

**lks dcvn** · 08-03-2009, 05:20 PM

last pic...

are you being too anal - you might be more anal than GM as it seems that there are plenty of issues with these things down the line.

To answer your question - you need to find out if your body has flexed at all prior to trying to make the top work...

Sadly, to get the body work right - you should always do it with the top on - and if you have already removed the DW to swap to a SW top - that might cause issues (only if your body sagged - how are the doors after you removed the tops (any sticking at the latch or rubbing on the fenders?)?

Once the top is on and aligned - then you can do the body mounts to assure that you are lined up - then you can move onto rust repair - and then you can take the top off again once you are sure that you are lined up and no longer flexing the body with the top off.

Once I finish the project for my Dad - I will be working between 2 different projects (the Blue Blazer pictured here and a 67 SWB GMC) to get them wrapped up.

I should be done in about 5 years or so -

Not sure if I helped you - but I tried...

TonyJohnson · 08-03-2009, 05:41 PM

Thanks for the response and great pics. Looks like that one is about like mine. The top has been on and off and in use for a while, but I never drilled the holes. I've got c-clamps holding it in place. The window frame bolts are in since they're the same. I'm getting ready to take it off for the fall, but wanted to get it into the proper alignment and mark the spots to drill so that when I put it back it will be right. I'm sure there's been some body flex. The top was off all last summer. I suppose I could put the holes in and then tweak later by slotting them and using nut plates.

badpeanut · 08-03-2009, 07:45 PM

I had some trashed '72 Blazer bed sides and they had floating nut plates for the hardtop (single wall I assume). Sorry I don't have any pictures and the bed sides are gone.

08-02-2009, 12:33 PM	#1
TonyJohnson Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Cheboygan, MI Posts: 998	Accurate Top Fitment Replacing a double wall top with a single and need to drill the holes. The question is how do these tops fit in relation to the doors, drip rail, back rail, and inside top rails? 1. Does the inside leading edge of the tops drip rail line up with the edge of the door jamb. On this pic it's about 3/8" back. What's correct? 2. Looking at the back, top, driver's side of the fender, where does the drip rail run in correct position? 3. On the inside, the top rail of the bed is shaped like the bottom rail of the top. Should these be lined up perfectly (so that if I ran my finger down the intersection of the two, they would be in the same position, top to bottom? 4. Does the top drip rail meet the windshield drip rail, or is there a gap? 5. Am I being too anal... Lastly, I know the body sags but mine has a 6-point cage and is fairly stiff. Does it make any sense to try to force the top into correct position or should I wait until restoration to try to get it right? I just don't want to break the top... Thanks, in advance, Tony __________________ Tony Johnson -- '71 Blazer w/L-31 Vortec 350, SM465, NP205, performer intake, edelbrock 1406, HEI, 4" lift, Boyd EFI tank, Vintage A/C My Blazer -- Last edited by TonyJohnson; 08-02-2009 at 12:34 PM.

08-03-2009, 10:42 AM	#2
TonyJohnson Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Cheboygan, MI Posts: 998	Re: Accurate Top Fitment I guess nobody has their top on... __________________ Tony Johnson -- '71 Blazer w/L-31 Vortec 350, SM465, NP205, performer intake, edelbrock 1406, HEI, 4" lift, Boyd EFI tank, Vintage A/C My Blazer --

08-03-2009, 05:19 PM	#3
lks dcvn Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 4,339	Re: Accurate Top Fitment Tony - I just got home from work and snapped some pix of the project in my yard...(it still has the top on it). This is a single wall top...the body mounts and the windshield frame need work - but the bedsides/top measurements should be legit since they are bolted down. Attached Images

08-03-2009, 05:20 PM	#4
lks dcvn Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 4,339	Re: Accurate Top Fitment last pic... are you being too anal - you might be more anal than GM as it seems that there are plenty of issues with these things down the line. To answer your question - you need to find out if your body has flexed at all prior to trying to make the top work... Sadly, to get the body work right - you should always do it with the top on - and if you have already removed the DW to swap to a SW top - that might cause issues (only if your body sagged - how are the doors after you removed the tops (any sticking at the latch or rubbing on the fenders?)? Once the top is on and aligned - then you can do the body mounts to assure that you are lined up - then you can move onto rust repair - and then you can take the top off again once you are sure that you are lined up and no longer flexing the body with the top off. Once I finish the project for my Dad - I will be working between 2 different projects (the Blue Blazer pictured here and a 67 SWB GMC) to get them wrapped up. I should be done in about 5 years or so - Not sure if I helped you - but I tried... Attached Images Last edited by lks dcvn; 08-03-2009 at 05:27 PM.

08-03-2009, 05:41 PM	#5
TonyJohnson Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Cheboygan, MI Posts: 998	Re: Accurate Top Fitment Thanks for the response and great pics. Looks like that one is about like mine. The top has been on and off and in use for a while, but I never drilled the holes. I've got c-clamps holding it in place. The window frame bolts are in since they're the same. I'm getting ready to take it off for the fall, but wanted to get it into the proper alignment and mark the spots to drill so that when I put it back it will be right. I'm sure there's been some body flex. The top was off all last summer. I suppose I could put the holes in and then tweak later by slotting them and using nut plates. __________________ Tony Johnson -- '71 Blazer w/L-31 Vortec 350, SM465, NP205, performer intake, edelbrock 1406, HEI, 4" lift, Boyd EFI tank, Vintage A/C My Blazer --

08-03-2009, 07:45 PM	#6
badpeanut Not a bad nut after all.. Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: ND Posts: 1,756	Re: Accurate Top Fitment I had some trashed '72 Blazer bed sides and they had floating nut plates for the hardtop (single wall I assume). Sorry I don't have any pictures and the bed sides are gone. __________________ '05 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 '72 GMC LWB 4x2 driver '72 Chevy LWB 4x4 plow truck '71 Blazer 4x4 driver '70 GMC LWB trailer



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