starting issues

[llegos]

My truck('69 GMC with a 350) didnt start this morning. I tested my battery and it had a full 12 volts(after I jumped it and drove it around). I then tested the alternator and it was putting out around low 13 volts. I checked my dads powerstroke diesel and his alternator was putting out mid 14's on volts. What could the problem be here? Untill like 2 days ago, when it cranked before it started, it would relatively fast, and now it cranks a little slower. This leads me to believe that maybe the starter is going out. But the thing was when it didnt start before, the radio/lights didnt work either. What is wrong with it? could it be the voltage regulator aswell?

[krue]

Have your alternator tested at any parts store. You can have your battery tested also. Most chain stores do it for free. If it is your alternator, may be a good time to do the upgrade to internally regulated.

[llegos]

thanks for that. Is there any way to test to see if my voltage regulator is the problem? Also, what are the pro's and cons with an internal vs. external regulator in a new alternator?

[jhwkns]

There's a little power block on the passenger side inner fender next to the battery.. Make sure the connections are clean, and tight... G/L

[llegos]

also, is it difficult to change over to an internal regulated atlernator?

[truckdude239]

no its not it took me about 45 mins i'd recomend switching over to an internator volt reg i got mine off an 83 chevy k-10 4x4 its an Palladium ALTERNATOR PREMIUM Part Number: P7127M3 from advance auto lifetime free replacement 38.88 anyway heres the link to the converstion if you end up with an bad alt. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379

some pros and cons? pros are my headlights are brigther and it seem to be more stable the old voltage regs stick open. my lights would fligger now they are steady plus with in int.reg you can get an alt that has prennty of amps to run what ever you want

[Gordo]

Note, in order to get a true reading of your charging system with a volt meter you need to start off with the battery FULLY charged, as close to 12.68 volts as you can get, then with clean connections and a tight belt, attach the volt meter to battery, start engine and ideally you want to see 14.2 volts, 13.8-14.5 volts will pass. If the battery is not fully charged you will get a poor reading leading you to believe the charging system has problems. Low 13's could be the result of the battery being low. Put that battery on a slow trickle charge over night and test the charging system again before you spend any money. If the alternator/ regulator needs replacing, switching over to the integral alternator is the way to go!

[llegos]

ok so, i am going to replace the alternator with an internally regulated one. what would be the easiest somewhat factory alternator swap be from? like a GM part of a AC delco kinda thing. a quality brand

[jhow66]

Originally Posted by llegos

ok so, i am going to replace the alternator with an internally regulated one. what would be the easiest somewhat factory alternator swap be from? like a GM part of a AC delco kinda thing. a quality brand

Read this first:
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

[Brento72]

I just read your thread and have to agree that a more modern alternator is the way to go. What kind of $ are you ready to drop is the next question you may want to ask. When you upgrade, a new alternator can get quite pricey. $100 and up. I would check the phone book and try to find an automotive electrical rebuild company/shop and let them know what you are trying to do. These folks sometimes have good rebuilds sitting for a while and will part with them fairly reasonably. They should have someone knowledgable to explain what differences in their parts and if they don't call the next guy until you find someone willing to deal with you. Delco-Remy has a gazillion different numbers that translate into many models that will fit your application. That is where the rebuilders will be worth your time in research. Also, make sure all your cables (battery, starter, chassis ground, engine ground, and starter selenoid wires) are good. If there is green corrosion, a frayed wire, or a loose connection it too will need to be fixed following Gordo's diagnosis tree. The corrosion and poor grounds could also contribute to a slow cranking problem.

[llegos]

ok, so i got a wiring diagram, and all it looks like to me is that on the stock one, the power goes from the alt, to the volt reg, and then to the battery, and some of the power goes straight from the alt to the battery. And then, the volt reg is grounded to the gauge. In the internally regulated, the alt goes straight to the battery and ground to the gauge....is this how it works? if so, then an internally regulated on would be a fairly easy swap right?

[cdowns]

b-4 doing alot of needless work why don't you clean up the battery terminals and ground connections to the frame and clean the post where the batt cable hooks to the starter??? shiney metal to shiney metal makes a big differance !!!!

[llegos]

well its not just the starting issue anymore...the gauge now only reads in the middle, where as i am told it is supposed to read more towards the C

[cdowns]

my point is===electrical systems don't work properly with bad corroded connections!! if you don't want to try the basics(free) and just jump in by throwing parts$$$ at it go for it