3 Kids, 1 Wife, and 1 Lonely Blazer

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

nice work so far... I use my HF trans jack also, but I install it with the crossmembers installed, helps to sit flat on the jack.

I definitely considered trying that. Does your cross member have the upper arms that bolt to the top of the frame? I was afraid I wouldn't be able to rotate it into place with the transfer case attached. Was hoping to install the trans and t-case together as a unit, but I couldn't figure out how to do it with the cross member in place.

Thanks for kind words. Your thread and a few others keep me motivated to keep picking away at this project! This forum is the best.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by CJM72

I definitely considered trying that. Does your cross member have the upper arms that bolt to the top of the frame? I was afraid I wouldn't be able to rotate it into place with the transfer case attached. Was hoping to install the trans and t-case together as a unit, but I couldn't figure out how to do it with the cross member in place.

Thanks for kind words. Your thread and a few others keep me motivated to keep picking away at this project! This forum is the best.

yes, I install as a unit, trans. and t/c. seeing as I have a 4" lift, it rolls under nicely, easier to put on trans jack outside of truck, and roll in place. Diagonal supports can be installed later. As you are, I'm a one man show, so any mechanical advantage I can gain, I use

I agree, great group of guys with tons of knowledge and experience, all willing to share. and yes, I use the builds to keep me motivated

BTW, I use exhaust manifold studs to line up, and install my t/c to trans. you can take them out later or leave them for future installs

[MrBeast]

Nice blazer, I will be watching to see how she turns out.

[ls1nova71]

Just reading through your thread and noticed something. You're correct that the power steering pump with 2 ports is from a hydroboost equipped truck, but if you're not running hydroboost, then you need to cap off the upper fitting on the reservoir and plumb the return from the steering box to the lower one. Running it to the top fitting can cause fluid foaming, which is why they return the fluid to the bottom of the reservoir.

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Just reading through your thread and noticed something. You're correct that the power steering pump with 2 ports is from a hydroboost equipped truck, but if you're not running hydroboost, then you need to cap off the upper fitting on the reservoir and plumb the return from the steering box to the lower one. Running it to the top fitting can cause fluid foaming, which is why they return the fluid to the bottom of the reservoir.

Wow, thanks for the heads up! I capped the bottom port and couldn't find much info on how to plumb the dual return pump. Should be a bit of a challenge to make the turn around the frame without hitting the pulley! Would like to convert to hydroboost eventually though.

I have some family stopping by to help put the front clip on tonight. Guess I'll have to fix it the hard way this weekend with the inner fender in the way.

[jaros44sr]

I would leave the inner fenders out till last, lotsof room to work on the engine if you take the wheel and tire off as well

[KeithT712]

Awesome build! Followed your link from the headers, pumped to follow this and see how it turns out!

[CJM72]

Just came on to vent. Been trying to realign my front clip for the past week or so. I'm not a body guy and this truck is kicking my ass. Hood and drivers door fit like crap when I bought this truck. Got the driver's door closing nicely, but I can't get the hood to fit well. I know the gaps on these trucks weren't great from the factory, but 46 years of use and abuse have me scratching my head. Frame doesnt seem like it took a hit and body seems reasonable square on the chassis. Just for giggles I also installed a new grill shell to add to the pain. Lots of chips in my paint, lots of curse words, minor progress. Think I need to reset my expectations and just shoot for panels that latch properly even if the gaps suck.

Once I get the hood latch straightened out, I'll post some pictures. Just needed to blow off some steam!

[Duraburb]

Awesome Build! Look forward to seeing more!

[mongocanfly]

Just read thru your build...and read about your door fitment being bad...I had a 72 k5 long long ago...if i took the top off the doors were jammed and wouldnt open....put the top on and doors work fine....
Nice job on the LQ9...

[rowdy11]

Subscribed...good write up and thanks for sharing, particularly on details like the shifter, PS lines, body alignment etc.
Slow and steady!

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by rowdy11

Subscribed...good write up and thanks for sharing, particularly on details like the shifter, PS lines, body alignment etc.
Slow and steady!

Thanks! I'm not dead and do have updates coming. Fuel system done, front clip aligned, working on cooling then wiring. Hoping to be running this spring.

[CO71Blazer]

I'm in the same boat as you, three kids, 10, 6, and 5 and a very understanding wife. My truck is my daily driver but I don't have a garage in which to work. Your thread, and others like it, have inspired me to keep faith that I can get my truck back in good shape. The body on mine is rough. Better than some, worse than others.

Keep up the great work!

[DeepOceanStepside]

Awesome build!! Subscribed to see future progress

[C.I.Blazer]

Build looks great. Hope you are still at it!

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by C.I.Blazer

Build looks great. Hope you are still at it!

I'm still alive and still have the Blazer! Have some small updates to post. Been a busy summer with the kids, but I'm hoping to get it fired this winter. Wiring and coolant plumbing are the major items left to get it running!

[mkelly]

Great job so far. I am just starting almost the same build. I look forward to your updates and I will probably coming to for questions.

[DeadheadNM]

Nice work. Just saw this thread and jumping aboard to learn more about LS swaps into K trucks. How is the clearance between the firewall and the heads?

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nice work. Just saw this thread and jumping aboard to learn more about LS swaps into K trucks. How is the clearance between the firewall and the heads?

I left my T-case in the stock position, used the Advanced Adapters kit to adapt to a 4l65e. I have about half an inch of clearance at the tightest spot on the firewall. It's just the corners of the heads. Any shorter combination of transmission and I think it would be right. Next clearance challenge is the oil pan to differential. I have worn out stock springs with an add-a-leaf and I probably only have 2 inches right now with the Dirty Dingo cross member. Will likely try to create more clearance by modifying the dirty Dingo cross member and putting a 2" lift in it. It's the cross member itself that would hit first.

More updates coming soon. Fuel system is done. Wiring and cooling systems now. Hoping to have it fired up soon!

[DeadheadNM]

Thank you for the details. I’ll stayed tuned. Am tempted by the retro LS motors assembled by Delmo speed shop or Don Hardy and these use adapters to accommodate stock style valve covers, which might contact the fire wall given the added height. Sliding forward sounds like would encroach further on the front diff with the DD xmember.

[Racer2172]

Nice work, great build.