I hate broken bolts

[theyammieguy]

So my alternator belt starting squeeling the other day so today when I got home I popped the hood to tighten it and realized the mounting bolt going into the head was broken off flush.

So five broken drill bits and one broken ez out and the damn bolt is still stuck.

Got the alternator tight enough to where I can get to work and heat the bolt up a little then use a better ez out.

[hdflstf]

Best way to get them out that I've tried is to get a nut and mig weld through the center of the nut into the bolt. Turn the nut with a wrench, the bolt comes right out.
Takes 15 minutes (including setup and cleanup) versus hours with drills etc.

[krue]

I've had a lot of success with a left handed drill bit.

[72BLUZ]

Originally Posted by krue

I've had a lot of success with a left handed drill bit.

what he said works great

[Longhorn Man]

and then make sure to put a long bolt in there. A stud would be better, run it in till it bottoms out, back it out a turn, then install a nut on the exposed part.

[chevy29267truck]

next time you have a bolt you cant get put PB Blaster on them ok

[piecesparts]

I support the weld a nut to the bolt thing. I have done it many times.

[Swifty]

i feel your pain. i was taking a set of headers off an old 383 and broke one of the bolts. i plaid hell getting it out. On top of that is was pouring snow and i was freezing my a$$ off!

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by theyammieguy

So my alternator belt starting squeeling the other day so today when I got home I popped the hood to tighten it and realized the mounting bolt going into the head was broken off flush.

So five broken drill bits and one broken ez out and the damn bolt is still stuck.

Got the alternator tight enough to where I can get to work and heat the bolt up a little then use a better ez out.

I've heard of this happening a few times on here. What is the cause of this?
I'm using grade 8 bolts on mine. What grade did you use?
s/t

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by 72BLUZ

what he said works great

X 3

The only problem I had is when I had the wife stop by Autozone for a set, she said they looked at her like she was crazy and said there was no such thing. I guess they though they were drill bits you held in your left hand. i had to make a special trip 15 miles back up there to get them, as I had bought them before. I threw a big tantrum, because my wife doesn't like going to the auto parts store for this exact reason. The offered me a 10% discount. I siad "WOW! The item is $10.". The mgr said "anything you buy today". Co I picked up wheel cylinders, an alternator and a CV axle for my 93 3/4 ton 4x4.

[Jtrux]

Weld the nut to it, i've done it at home and work with success every time.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I've heard of this happening a few times on here. What is the cause of this?
I'm using grade 8 bolts on mine. What grade did you use?
s/t

The cause is mismatched pulleys and accessories. I broke many alternator mount bolts. Switched to grade 8. They broke too only they took a bit longer. Finally I got a set of matching crank and waterpump pullies off an unmolested truck. That was a LONG time ago. No more broken bolts.

Before I purchased a matching set of pulleys I had the hood up and was showing off my newly installed 383. At the right RPM the alternator bracket was litteraly dancing on the front of the engine. Those bolts didn't stand a chance in that environment.

Watch the parts board for the members that are parting whole trucks. When they drag one in and say - I'm parting this unmolested truck, get dibs on ALL the pulleys. Then make sure you have the correct power steering pump bracket, alternator bracket, and AC brackets if so equipped.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by mrein3

The cause is mismatched pulleys and accessories. I broke many alternator mount bolts. Switched to grade 8. They broke too only they took a bit longer. Finally I got a set of matching crank and waterpump pullies off an unmolested truck. That was a LONG time ago. No more broken bolts.

Before I purchased a matching set of pulleys I had the hood up and was showing off my newly installed 383. At the right RPM the alternator bracket was litteraly dancing on the front of the engine. Those bolts didn't stand a chance in that environment.

Watch the parts board for the members that are parting whole trucks. When they drag one in and say - I'm parting this unmolested truck, get dibs on ALL the pulleys. Then make sure you have the correct power steering pump bracket, alternator bracket, and AC brackets if so equipped.

I’m assuming this misalignment is noticeable? Since the alternator is pretty much fixed the problem was between the crank & water pump pulleys?
s/t

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Sport/Truck

I’m assuming this misalignment is noticeable? Since the alternator is pretty much fixed the problem was between the crank & water pump pulleys?
s/t

It wasn't terribly noticable. At slow and fast idle I didn't see the alternator dance. I switched out engines broke the new one in and never saw this behavior. One day I had it at work shortly after installing the new 383. I was showing off my new engine to a co-worker. It was late fall/early winter and the rich/lean setting wasn't yet adjusted for winter on the new 1406 Edlebrock carb. The fast idle was a touch faster than normal which had the rpms at the right speed to make a wierd harmonic with the alternator. At other idles I only noticed a slight vibration in the alternator belt.

I got home ok that day and took a real close look at the alignment of the pulleys.

Coincidentally da-burb just did some horse trading with another member and ended up with a truck that was previously unmolested. I purchased the cam shaft pulley off him, installed it, and lost all my wierd vibrations.

[Longhorn Man]

another VERY common reason for the alt bolts snapping, people put too short a bolt in there. The lower cradel is thick, and you have 75% of the bolt in the bracket and cradle, then just 1/4 inch in the head.

[mark 68]

I never was able to get a bolt out of a hole with left handed bits. I have had better luck with the square ease outs then the round ones. Welding a nut on a bolt works great but you can weld the bolt into the threads. PB blast is great. Kroil is great but expensive and i have read about heating up the broken bolt with a torch and then put a candle to the bolt. When the candle melts it supposed to seep into the threads and help lubricate the bolt. Some things
I've learned in the past.

[piecesparts]

The thing about welding, is that if the bolt is in a cast iron head, the weld will stick to the bolt long before it gets to the threads of the head. cast isor is kinda nice in that respect.

[DANTIP]

I have a pesky bolt broken off in a head. I will definately try welding a nut to the sheared-off bolt. The heat from the weld along the mechanical bond of the weld sound like a great combination!!

[theyammieguy]

I got it out with a square ez out.

I work on mack, volvo's, freightliners and tanker trailers for a living so broken bolts are a common problem for me.

Detroit 60 series had a problem with a/c bolts snapping off. They had a service bulletin where you had to add a support bracket from the back of the compressor to the block.

[chev-obsession]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

X 3

The only problem I had is when I had the wife stop by Autozone for a set, she said they looked at her like she was crazy and said there was no such thing. I guess they though they were drill bits you held in your left hand. i had to make a special trip 15 miles back up there to get them, as I had bought them before. I threw a big tantrum, because my wife doesn't like going to the auto parts store for this exact reason. The offered me a 10% discount. I siad "WOW! The item is $10.". The mgr said "anything you buy today". Co I picked up wheel cylinders, an alternator and a CV axle for my 93 3/4 ton 4x4.

i like your style!