Starter brace for 350 SBC

[dmjlambert]

OK, since there has never been a picture on the Internet or this forum of the starter brace installed on a 1969 Chevy truck (I have searched), I am trying to figure out how to fit it on my truck. Over on this thread we started talking about starter braces because I removed the outer bolt on my starter and rotated it away from my flex plate and AussieinNC reminded me I don't have a brace on the starter.

Here is what I ordered


Does it attach up here by the spark plug with the hole marked #1 in the picture? Attached to the starter to the bolt I marked #2? I was thinking that is hole on the engine for the heat shield (which I also have yet to install). Do both go on that one bolt hole? Is there another place? Here is a view from under the truck.


This is for my 1969 CST/10 with 350 engine, TH400 transmission, 168 tooth flex plate, stock starter with diagonal mounting holes.

[geezer#99]

Try here.

https://www.google.com/search?tbm=is...24.qg5DRwcFgac

[Boog]

It should only fit one way.

[CaptRMW]

Starter brace attaches to the block with a 5/16" X maybe 1/2" long bolt. Your heat shield will be in a different hole and are 1/4" std thread.
Your starter will need the short brace not the long one pictured unless you swap places with the bolt with the stud on it.

[AussieinNC]

There are multiple length starter braces available ...it all depends on what type of starter you have

The short version brace fits on the starters that have the extra threaded bolt end at the top of the starter body...see pic...

All braces fit to the top edge of the block itself with either a 5/16" or 3/8" x 1/2" cap screw. (Gettin old guys, memory is gettin cloudy)

Also a good idea is to glue a short piece of rubber hose to the bracket edge ti add insulation where the batter lead comes across.

BTW...location of heat shield bolt is also shown in this pic...

[dmjlambert]

OK, good deal, thanks a bunch for all your responses. i will work on that.

[KQQL IT]

Used mine for a throttle return spring spot.
After putting a mini starter on.

[special-K]

I have never had or seen one of these trucks with a starter brace before.

[1972RedNeck]

Didn't even know starter braces existed. Seems like a fix for a problem that doesn't exist - which I am kind of a fan of myself...

[dmjlambert]

Yes, it's a fix for a problem that does not exist, yet. I understand there are circumstances where it is a good idea to add one. Increasing the advance beyond the conservative factory specs and limiting amount of vacuum advance could lead to kickback during start.

[CaptRMW]

It is a little like a spare tire that you have no use for if you never have a flat tire. The down side of not having a brace on your starter is when you realize you need one is possibly when the part of your block where the starter was bolted has now parted company with the block and you also need a new block. Anyone think the bean counters at GM would have spent the money for this part if they didn't think it was necessary?Cheap and easy insurance,

[special-K]

Yes, but I never heard of any of these trucks busting the block from kickback in all my years either. It 'could' happen I know... and I think I have seen such a case here once. I might get around to putting one on, but with the odds I have through experience I hope I don't forget to get around to getting one. Maybe they started using them once the bean counters took material and maybe strong alloys out of the block material.

[jeffahart]

Shave an inch off the top part of the L bracket so you can get to it with a box end from both sides. Once your motor is installed and fully dressed the bolt is a pain.


j

[jeffahart]

Here's my current housing, busted on the bottom hole. Most likely from over torque though out the years. I added the brace, I'll repair or replace the housing when I get a new motor. I'll probably leave the brace off after that.


j

[Boog]

Back in the day heat soak, carb drainage and high compression could some times take it's toll on the starter housing. Moreso in big blocks I think. Our 72 wrecker with 454 would occasionally kick back and bust the starter housing. The cheap aluminum nose cones from the rebuilders weren't near strong enough. We found a factory piece and had it rebuilt and stopped that problem. I don't remember if that engine had the brace or not.

[AussieinNC]

Pity you are in CA....I have a good bell housing here in North Carolina....

Once you fix the bolt hole issue, keep the brace on...

I have repaired over twenty of these broken blocks in past few years...usually requires a rebuild using a good block....all for the sake of this simple piece of steel and a bolt...

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Pity you are in CA....I have a good bell housing here in North Carolina....

Once you fix the bolt hole issue, keep the brace on...

I have repaired over twenty of these broken blocks in past few years...usually requires a rebuild using a good block....all for the sake of this simple piece of steel and a bolt...

Thanks! I've got one eye open for one. If the price is right, I would rather have one sitting pretty before I pull the motor for replacement. One less thing thing to slow down the swap. I Probably should keep the brace on, like you say.


j

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Thanks! I've got one eye open for one. If the price is right, I would rather have one sitting pretty before I pull the motor for replacement. One less thing thing to slow down the swap. I Probably should keep the brace on, like you say.


j

Would a sm465 bell work? From a 76 1ton??

I have one in central cal I'd donate and could get it over to 91752 Mira Loma next week.

[dirtyjim]

I've seen starter bolts snapped and nose cones broke from kickback. I've never seen a busted block firsthand. back 30 years ago when I was a teenager and raced a 72 c10 with a 454 we would run the ignition on a toggle stitch and get the engine spinning before turning the ignition on to prevent kickback when you was running high compressing and a lot of ignition timing. the ignition boxes and efi available now can retard the ignition timing during startup so its no longer needed

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Would a sm465 bell work? From a 76 1ton??

I have one in central cal I'd donate and could get it over to 91752 Mira Loma next week.

Thanks for that. I'll send you a PM so I don't hijack the thread too badly. I get out to central CA quite a bit. I'm looking to do my motor Jan or Feb.

I think your bellhousing has a different casting. I need to look into it. Might just be non issues like clutch linkage boss on the bellhousing. Needed on later model but maybe can just ignore on the older linkage setup.

Thanks again, I'm going to look into it an send you a PM!


j

[demian5]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Yes, it's a fix for a problem that does not exist, yet. I understand there are circumstances where it is a good idea to add one. Increasing the advance beyond the conservative factory specs and limiting amount of vacuum advance could lead to kickback during start.

How does timing relate to this?

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by demian5

How does timing relate to this?

Too much timing lead. Creates high cylinder pressure that the starter cant over come.

[randy.powell]

These can be found in the various parts catalogs we all get in the mail. there are a couple versions - BB and SB. Somewhere between $6 - $10. I bought one for my SB (original block to the truck). Do I need it? Don't know, but as much as I have invested in this truck, I think that's cheap insurance.
My two cents worth...
RP

[A1971Blazer]

I just put a starter brace on my '70 K/5 along with a new Powermaster high torque OEM style starter from Summit....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-3510
the starter was giving me problems...sounded terrible and actually locked up in the flex plate....
I figured for $20.00 it was cheap insurance.
I have seen the ear on a block where the outer starter bolt goes....broken off
End result for me.....it starts MUCH quieter and better now...just my 2¢...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-3965589...72.m2749.l2649

[AussieinNC]

Didnt know my little comment would get so much attention...

Maybe this next one will get the creative juices going....

Factory recommends a gap of 0.020 between top of starter pinion tooth and bottom of flex plate tooth valley...see pic....

I see so many starters without shims, grinding away with little or no clearance...

No clearance and no brace....eventual starter and ring gear failure...

Happy wrenching everyone...