1972 Chevy SWB 4x4 First Project. Pics

[donelan07]

I just purchased a 1972 Chevy Short Box Fleetside. This will be the first pickup I have attempted to restore. I was told the selenoid was bad when they parked it 4 years ago. We put 4 new plugs in, new gas, new battery, and selenoid. When I turned the key over it cranks but when you turn the key back it keeps cranking and we had to stop the starter by disconnecting the battery. Any suggestions or help?? Thanks Tony

[nightmare]

Nice truck, looks like it is a solid start.

As for the continuous cranking, could be any number of things. I'd check the wires and ignition piece where the key goes first. It sounds like there are wires shorted together keeping it going. Could also be that the starter isn't shimmed correctly (if it needs shims). But I'd start with the ignition wires first.

Let us know what you find

[donelan07]

The truck is a wireing nightmare. Its very possbile its a wire shortage as their was mice in the cab. I would like to rewire the whole truck but have no idea where to start. We tested the coil and their is power going in but no power coming out of the coil. Could the actual key in the ignition go bad because its difficult to get the key out.

[harrdawg54]

My truck would keep cranking after I released the key, it turned out to be a short from the ignition wire that come from the distribution block to the coil. It could be a number of things but that's what happened with mine.

[72BlckButy]

Great looking project, best of luck with it!

[tim21391]

i put a new ignition switch in and that solved my problem when that did that to my truck..ended up the whole switch went bad

[71stub]

My truck used to crank over when you turned it to accessory but i had a melted wire harness. I may have a cab harness for you if you make it to watertown often.

[donelan07]

How do I determine what motor I have? Is their a code casted in the block of the motor? I am curious what is factory on the pickup. Thanks

[Ricks1971]

http://www.mortec.com/

[donelan07]

Vin CKE1421 112175 W/Base IN SEFT0607616
Option No. 511, D29, L59, Z53
Model # KE16734 626
OCHRE
Below Eyeline Mirror F76
350 CID v-8 Engine M45
Guages-AM meter oil AN
Parachment Trim
Front Wheel Lock Hubs
Turbo Hydro-Matic

Transmission
A 189
14
GM
A65452

Transfer Case
AD 2 C-99404

Edelbrock Streetmaster intake
Holley Carb

I couldnt find the engine block code anywhere.
Put a new ignition in but it didn't fix the continous cranking of the starter.

[Wootdog]

Their should be three wires going to the starter. One to the battery positive side. On that same connection I have another I believe that goes to the coil. and the last small one I believe goes to the ignition switch. i could be wrong I am on the road at this time. The last time I had your problem though was the starter needed replaced. Most if not all of these trucks have the starter solenoid connected to the starter. I would take the starter to a auto parts store and have it tested.
Kerry

[MDC]

I rebuilt my harness. Not as intimidating as it sounds. Just study the wiring schematic. There is a color one in FAQ. You can get a couple of bad ones and make one good one. Let us know how it turns out. Notice all of the scotch locks

[donelan07]

Is the Painless 10206 wiring harness worth the investment?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless/764/1...FRPZDAodsQh0xw

[72 Super]

I bought a remanufactured starter for my truck once,when I installed it, it was doing the exact samething yours is doing. I went back and got another one and it was fine.

[j-dogg]

I almost got run over by my truck when I had a similar problem. It was in gear, and when I touched the negative battery cable to the battery, the truck started lurching forward.

It turned out to be the wire between the coil and solenoid. The wire had broken where the spade connector was crimped on at the solenoid, but I couldn't tell because it was still sitting in the connector. I worked on finding that problem for hours, and then I accidentally found the problem when my hand barely grazed the wire and it came out of the connector. Put on a new wire and connectors and my problem was solved!

Hope it works out for you!

[yenko427]

I used the painless harness 10206 and had no problem. The harness is separated into sections for engine, cad and rear sections. Just take your time and it works great. I used heat shrink on all the connections. On the starter problem go to your local parts store and buy a remote starter switch and hook to the starter. Turn the key to the on position and use the push button switch to start the truck. If the starter kick back out then the switch or the key tumbler or the wiring from the switch to starter is bad. Hope this Helps. If you decided to get the painless contact me if you need help.

[drivethechevy]

my family owns a junk yard and we get vehicles in all the time that just keep cranking, it usualy turns out to be a problem cause by the bendix on the starter, although a few time it has been the ignition switch has gone bad so i would buy a new starter if you already replaced the ignition, and just incase you dont know what the bendix does, the bendix is the small motor in the starter the tells the starter when to crank and when not to crank, usualy bendix's use plastic gears and the gears wear out, the trarter will be able to crank and in somecases will even start the vehicle but the starter will stay engaged cranking the entire time, producing a cranking or a whinning sound
good luck with you truck, i hope you figure out this dillema
nate

[MDC]

I'm sure the painless is fine, but for a$400 I'd rebuild mine. Not counting the factory one the PO hacked, I've got probably $50 in mine including another factory harness, a wiring diagram, heatshrink and loom. Which ever you decide, let us know how it goes.

[Classic Heartbeat]

M&H factory replacement harnesses are the way to go in my opinion. They have the factory ends, grommets, and fit like a glove. A little more expencive, but worth every penny. WES

[donelan07]

I am going to try a different starter tommorrow but does someone have a diagram that shows the wires from the ignition tot he starter and than to the coil? There are many broken wires and spliced wires everywhere. I believe there is just one each end of the selenoid and a positive and negative going in and out the coil. How can you tell if the spark plug wire between the coil and distributor is bad? Thanks

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I used the painless kit and it was not complete you still have to buy the taillight section but it has work great for many years now..

[donelan07]

I just picked up a new starter, plug wires, distributor, and rotor. Ill let ya know how tomorrow goes.

[MDC]

Here's a link to the wiring
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185665

[donelan07]

I put a new starter in today. Did the trick ! Turn back the key and it stops cranking over . I am guessing it was the bendix in the starter?. I put new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas, and battery so far and still doesnt seem like I am getting any spark. What should I do now to get some spark and get it running at last?

[Wootdog]

By the size of your distributor cap I would guess it is not HEI. High Energy Ignition. So with that being said you would have points. You need to get a book for your truck. It would explain how many thousandths to set your points to. I have always been told by the old mechanics including my dad that if you set the points about the distance of a match book cover for number one cylinder at top dead center you would be close. I would get a book though or ask someone who is a more competent mechanic than I am.
Kerry