cleaning in fender wells/ bed sides

['72 longhorn dually]

not sure where to put this. I have a '72 Chevy c30 i am rebuilding, in the process of getting it to body work. my question is how does one clean inside the outer and inner bed sides? ( not the inside of the bed (that's wood) the actual sides them selfs.)what product should i use for rust prevention/ coating? is there a cost friendly 360 degree spray system to use? ( it would need to be approx. 3' long) The only solution i can come up with is get a wire wheel on a 24-36" extension and go to town, thoughts? also i know i can drill out the spot welds and split them apart, not something i have the room and want to do. any and all suggestions are appreciated.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by '72 longhorn dually

not sure where to put this. I have a '72 Chevy c30 i am rebuilding, in the process of getting it to body work. my question is how does one clean inside the outer and inner bed sides? ( not the inside of the bed (that's wood) the actual sides them selfs.)what product should i use for rust prevention/ coating? is there a cost friendly 360 degree spray system to use? ( it would need to be approx. 3' long) The only solution i can come up with is get a wire wheel on a 24-36" extension and go to town, thoughts? also i know i can drill out the spot welds and split them apart, not something i have the room and want to do. any and all suggestions are appreciated.

I bought a used bed so I had time on my side. On the drinker's side I filleted the bedside. Used a chin poker in the electric grinder to get the heavy rust off. Then I used that acid etch made just for that purpose. Then I epoxy primered the inside. Then I welded it all back together.

After that one I bought a re-pop for the captain's side.

In my imagination I see a future, 100 - 200 years from now where the remains of my truck are in a junk yard and that passenger side bedside is still standing there like new.

I described the fillet part - even though you said you know you don't have the room and want. I included it just so you know it was done and it took forever and took a lot of space - like you thought.

Maybe reach in as far as you can with a wire wheel. Then use that acid etch stuff on the inside as it is liquid. Where you can't reach with a brush, pour it in there with the side upside down. The process to use that acid is to rinse it off with a garden hose but it is meant to be primered and painted over. After you figure out how to get a wire wheel in there you'll need to figure out how to spray primer and paint in there.

[HO455]

I used a sprayer to spray POR15 into the void areas of my Burban. There is more information in my thread below. I didn't do the acid cleaning step POR15 calls for as I didn't have confidence I could neutralize all the acd but with your fenders off the truck you could do a complete rinse and feel confident the acid was gone.

Scroll to post 8 to start.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

The gun came with 24 inch flexible wands.

http://www.chemicar.com/tools/underc...tproofing-gun/

['72 longhorn dually]

Originally Posted by HO455

I used a sprayer to spray POR15 into the void areas of my Burban. There is more information in my thread below. I didn't do the acid cleaning step POR15 calls for as I didn't have confidence I could neutralize all the acd but with your fenders off the truck you could do a complete rinse and feel confident the acid was gone.

Scroll to post 8 to start.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

The gun came with 24 inch flexible wands.

http://www.chemicar.com/tools/underc...tproofing-gun/

how was it spraying with the undercoat gun and 360 degree tip? i have tested a 360 undercoat tip and it seemed to me to not spray very even. although i am not concerned about runs and i am conserned with coverage.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by '72 longhorn dually

how was it spraying with the undercoat gun and 360 degree tip? i have tested a 360 undercoat tip and it seemed to me to not spray very even. although i am not concerned about runs and i am concerned with coverage.

The 360 wand had a good 360 spray pattern but not a perfect pattern. You don't get enough volume to get complete coverage with one pass of the wand. Expect to do several passes to get complete coverage.

An other product you may want to consider is something like Fluid Film. The film that is sprayed on will creep into the seams and other tight places. The downside of them is that you will need to reapply them from time to time. This gentleman has done a lot of real world tests with these and other products.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffwde8dfBvc

I will say that this is subject is a rabbit hole that is full of folks with lots of strong opinions and at the end the question is do you want to completely disassemble the truck and epoxy coat everything before reassembling the truck? As that is where it ultimately leads to.

All of us have to decide on what process we have confidence in and that we can afford the time and money to make happen.

['72 longhorn dually]

Originally Posted by mrein3

I bought a used bed so I had time on my side. On the drinker's side I filleted the bedside. Used a chin poker in the electric grinder to get the heavy rust off. Then I used that acid etch made just for that purpose. Then I epoxy primered the inside. Then I welded it all back together.

After that one I bought a re-pop for the captain's side.

In my imagination I see a future, 100 - 200 years from now where the remains of my truck are in a junk yard and that passenger side bedside is still standing there like new.

I described the fillet part - even though you said you know you don't have the room and want. I included it just so you know it was done and it took forever and took a lot of space - like you thought.

Maybe reach in as far as you can with a wire wheel. Then use that acid etch stuff on the inside as it is liquid. Where you can't reach with a brush, pour it in there with the side upside down. The process to use that acid is to rinse it off with a garden hose but it is meant to be primered and painted over. After you figure out how to get a wire wheel in there you'll need to figure out how to spray primer and paint in there.

i would love to do it this way for sure. thanks for the input!

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by mrein3

After that one I bought a re-pop for the captain's side.

Does anyone know if the repop bedsides are EDP coated on the insides?

[Chaparralman1974]

I have been using the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Basically, anywhere that I can't get to, I will clean the best I can with compressed air, shop vac, whatever to get all the loose stuff out that I can and then stick the extended nozzle in and spray everything. I have done this to all the nooks and crannies on the cab and will be doing it everywhere else on my project.

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating

[72c20customcamper]

I have one of these it’s about 50 years old and works well mine has an aluminum cup . The wands can be made to any length with pex or other stiff tubing

['72 longhorn dually]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

I have been using the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Basically, anywhere that I can't get to, I will clean the best I can with compressed air, shop vac, whatever to get all the loose stuff out that I can and then stick the extended nozzle in and spray everything. I have done this to all the nooks and crannies on the cab and will be doing it everywhere else on my project.

Eastwood Internal Frame Coating

why did you choose eastwood brand frame coating over the other brands on the market? ive been looking into alot of the brands available, looks like il be staying away from the famous por-15.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by '72 longhorn dually

why did you choose eastwood brand frame coating over the other brands on the market? ive been looking into alot of the brands available, looks like il be staying away from the famous por-15.

Basically, I wanted to stay with a single manufacturer for everything that I could. Being a beginner with no auto body experience, I have relied heavily on YouTube, the interwebs, and this forum. Eastwood has a very navigable FAQ section, and I even called their tech support a few times. Lastly, I like being able to order everything at once from the same place.

I can say that the internal frame coating stuff went on just like I figured....very wet and runny, which really is what you want so that it flows into all of the nooks and crannies. It will make a mess, so you have to tape up the areas where it will run out. I also put a bunch of plastic down in the garage so that it didn't get all over the place. It also dried pretty quick, which was a bonus. I used it everywhere on the cab that I could except the roof (I didn't want it running back down the walls and I had already done most of the body work so I didn't want to roll the cab on its back again and damage anything that I had already fixed.

I stayed with Eastwood for everything except the body filler. For that, I chose to use Evercoat Rage Ultra. It was recommended by several body shops (on YouTube) that do show cars. I have been super happy with the results so far.


Clay

['72 longhorn dually]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Basically, I wanted to stay with a single manufacturer for everything that I could. Being a beginner with no auto body experience, I have relied heavily on YouTube, the interwebs, and this forum. Eastwood has a very navigable FAQ section, and I even called their tech support a few times. Lastly, I like being able to order everything at once from the same place.

I can say that the internal frame coating stuff went on just like I figured....very wet and runny, which really is what you want so that it flows into all of the nooks and crannies. It will make a mess, so you have to tape up the areas where it will run out. I also put a bunch of plastic down in the garage so that it didn't get all over the place. It also dried pretty quick, which was a bonus. I used it everywhere on the cab that I could except the roof (I didn't want it running back down the walls and I had already done most of the body work so I didn't want to roll the cab on its back again and damage anything that I had already fixed.

I stayed with Eastwood for everything except the body filler. For that, I chose to use Evercoat Rage Ultra. It was recommended by several body shops (on YouTube) that do show cars. I have been super happy with the results so far.


Clay

Originally Posted by HO455

The 360 wand had a good 360 spray pattern but not a perfect pattern. You don't get enough volume to get complete coverage with one pass of the wand. Expect to do several passes to get complete coverage.

An other product you may want to consider is something like Fluid Film. The film that is sprayed on will creep into the seams and other tight places. The downside of them is that you will need to reapply them from time to time. This gentleman has done a lot of real world tests with these and other products.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffwde8dfBvc

I will say that this is subject is a rabbit hole that is full of folks with lots of strong opinions and at the end the question is do you want to completely disassemble the truck and epoxy coat everything before reassembling the truck? As that is where it ultimately leads to.

All of us have to decide on what process we have confidence in and that we can afford the time and money to make happen.

i appreciate the inputs! i would call myself a starting rookie, 4 years body and paint experience but in a industrial side ( bondo and painting rail cars). i have done a large patch on the bed side already and im fighting it( one of my main reasons for not wanting to split it. i have done 90% of my automotive body work learning via youtube and forums as well. im loving the process and i know im never going to have a show quality truck but also want to take the right steps into making it look good for a weekend cruiser.