Floor pan/Rocker replacement

[ClassicJimmy]

Looking for a little advice on how to go about my floor pan / rocker pan replacement on my 71 Jimmy. Which one should I do first, & should I keep the other in place while I'm working on the other? Or can I just take it all out & put it back? How did you guys do yours? Pics would be a big help. Show me a thread to see yours, or you can send me pics jtconstantine@comcast.net

Also, just wanted to say thanks in advance. This has got to be one of the coolest & best forum sites ever. Everybody is incredible, friendly, & helpful. I'm a lot less nervous about this project now that I've found you guys. Thanks again!

[Rokcrln]

Quick paste to get you started~~
As far as where to start you will need to start with removal of the rusted parts. Then order of new parts will be somthing like this.
1) floor boards (this part has the inner rocker attached)
2) Kick panel
3) "A" piller bottom if needed (they all most always need it)
4) rear half of inner rocker
5) outer rocker

That will be close from what I can see from the pick. Check out this post for simular repairs that I have done.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=188993

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[ClassicJimmy]

I've got the floor pans, inner & outer rockers. All the rest of the metal looks good. I just need to know which order to do it in. Thanks for the info.

[raggedjim]

ClassicJimmy, this may help, I also have some pics if I can find them.

I did the passengers side first and left the top on. If you remove the top you will need to brace everything before you start cutting. I didn't brace anything, but maybe I got lucky...

I did find these after pics...

Good luck, Rg

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=142041

[Rokcrln]

Yes it always a good idea to brace things up before you start cutting out parts. But keep in mind if the rocker boxes and cab mounts are in good shape you should be able to remove the top and rockers with out any movment. But like I said to start with it is always a good idea to brace since you can not always see how good or bad things are untill you get insode them.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[ClassicJimmy]

Thanx for the pics & info, guys. Unfortunatly I didn't get started this Sunday like I wanted, but this Sunday is looking good. I'll post some pics & we'll see how it goes.

[Huck]

I would not assume that pulling a top off a blazer with good rocker boxes and cab mounts will prevent the body from moving. Even with a perfect body--it tends to sag and twist a bit once you pull the top especially if you have things like the front clip off or outer rocker panels. K5's are not the stiffest bodies GM ever built by a long shot. The factory assembly manual refers to shimming body mounts and over time, all the rubber mounts will sag, spred out a bit etc. The top is about the only good reference for proper alignment of the windshield frame, firewall, rear quarters, doors, etc. Before welding any patch panels, floors, etc. I would put the top on and make sure it is firmly bolted in place --kind of like a Jig. Also remember to cut out the smallest amount of original material to get a solid welding base. Replacing a complete section when you only need a small part usually creates bigger problems. My .02 based on a few ~~

[raggedjim]

Not to throw too much at you at a time, but I also only removed one front fender at a time while doing this. My "theory" was that the front fender on the opposite side of the side I was working on could act as a cantilever to help hold the firewall in place while cutting the floor on the work side.

I agree with Huck about only removing as little of the floor pan as neccessary. The original structure is rigid (even when there is an incredible amount of rust!) Just make sure you get rid of the cancer. It's a difficult thing to know when to stop...

There are also some parts that aren't available aftermarket, I'll see if I have some pics of them.

Good luck, Rg

[ClassicJimmy]

You guys rock! Thanks for the advice. I have the top & the front clip still on. I do have a new body mount kit (rubber), should I put that on before I start on the repair job? I was planning to put it on after the repairs & body work was all done, but from what you guys are saying, it seems that I should do it first & get everything lined up right so the patches are better. Yes?
Thanks again!

[SOON2BLAZE]

I've been told that taking doors off when replacing floor pans and inner/ outter rockers will cause horrible misalignment problems on trucks and blazers. Is this true? Can you even replace thse pieces without door removal?

[raggedjim]

I took mine off to do the floor (and the lower A-pillar and the lower B-pillar, and the inner kick panel and a ton of other things) Once I got the floor done I put the door back on and tacked in the rocker panel, then I took it off again and finished up the rocker panel and rocker box. I figure I have to take that door off at least 2 more times before I'm done... I'm getting good at it!

My panels seem to line up well.

I know people have replaced rocker panels without removing the doors but if the lower A-pillar is shot you're going to have to take it off anyway (surely you wouldn't just cover it with the new rocker panel???) I know some would but I plan on keeping mine for a while...

I don't think there is one definitive way to do things, just go slow and don't get frustrated. Some of my parts had to be cut and rewelded to fit (reproduction floor panels)

Rg

[pound41]

Took a piece of angle iron with a hole every inch like for garage doors bolted it to one of the bottom bolts on the door latch and ran the other end to the upper part of the kick panel with 2 self taping screws. Acutally stiffened up the tub and made the door close better. As for the non repo parts I had a board member cut me the hump where the seat sits- out towards the rocker and as much of the back as i could get. My floor was trashed. I am using that to form the other pieces. I have it all cut out and fitted. almost ready to weld it back. If I knew how to post some pics I would.

[ClassicJimmy]

Originally Posted by ClassicJimmy

You guys rock! Thanks for the advice. I have the top & the front clip still on. I do have a new body mount kit (rubber), should I put that on before I start on the repair job? I was planning to put it on after the repairs & body work was all done, but from what you guys are saying, it seems that I should do it first & get everything lined up right so the patches are better. Yes?
Thanks again!

Just want to know if anyone has an opinion on doing the body mounts before the pathces.

[raggedjim]

I've heard different opinions on this. I am changing mine after, I felt that it wouldn't make sense to change the mounts to new ones then cut and find out that you need to add shims after ward. I think I can do the floorwork and once it is done, change the mounts and adjust at that time.

This is the way I'm doing it, which doesn't mean it is the RIGHT way. (at least I have a reason why, even if it may be defective reasoning...)

Honestly, you can really change the gaps by shimming the mounts (from what I've read) so as long as the windshield frame doesn't shift drastically I think you could shim it all to get your gaps right (wouldn't take much to hit factory standards!)

Good luck, Rg

[pound41]

Even a tight body will flex and move, I am going to do mine after the floors are back in. I did brace before cutting. So I will hopefully install and align once after the floors. I don't think it really makes a difference thou. I have heard and seen some that have had to do shiming or removel of after installing body mounts on tubs that had no floor work done.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Very informative thread

[DEFIANT NCC-74205]

I'm doing my mounts first since they are toast. It seems to make a drastic change in alignment of the body. Doesn't seem to make much sense to do all that work, weld things up, and then find it's all out of wack after doing the mounts. But that's just me.