C-notion mandatory ?

[primetime]

When putting in airbags, do you have to have a c-notched frame? I like the look of the maximum static drop spindle and springs, but remember folks talking how bad it will ride. So the convenience of airbags would be nice for daily driving for my roads in my area. How would airbags perform minus the c-notch?

[leddzepp]

A c notch is not mandatory...nor will it affect your ride quality. If you find that your truck bottoms out routinely, or you simply want to go lower, install one. Most people do not install one until they lower their truck more than 6" in the rear statically.

[primetime]

thanks leddzepp, I was looking for my post but didn't realize it had been moved to Suspension.
would the drop spindles be necessary then if I'm using airbags system?

[BR3W CITY]

My take on this, is that if your low enough to be using bags, your probably low enough to also notch your frame. Very few folks have bags and LESS than a 6" drop (not counting the lift/load assist uses).

I have approx 5/7 drop (give or take a touch), with a small pipe-notch, and my truck rides just fine. IF anything, its STILL softer than most modern cars. Pipe notches and bolt in notches aren't super hard to do, at least not when compared to a big c-notch or step notch with a bridge.

You can do a small notch and not affect your wheelwells or your bed space.

[primetime]

No, I don't want to do a c- notch at all. I like the static drop look, but I want to be able to raise the height enough to clear my driveway and potholes on my daily commute. I do not want to lay frame or anything like that

[chevyrestoguy]

What's your estimation on how you want to go? That will be a deciding factor on whether you'll need a notch. I too, am a fan of the static look and the notion of laying on the rockers isn't my thing. However, I like my stuff really low, and I notched my '64 because I am also a fanatic about ride quality. I like a full range of suspension travel, coupled with the correct shocks and springs. There was no way that I could have the proper up-travel I needed without having a notch.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by primetime

No, I don't want to do a c- notch at all. I like the static drop look, but I want to be able to raise the height enough to clear my driveway and potholes on my daily commute. I do not want to lay frame or anything like that

Without notching, your truck won't get low enough to NOT function on your daily commute. You can get to about a 5" drop without notching (varies a little depending on year of your truck and parts/tire size). Any lower, and you'll want a notch. Consider how high these are to start off, even at 5" of drop, your still fully functional.


Why is it you don't want to notch?

I want to recap what you want to do, since I can't tell if you WANT to bag the truck, or just think you need to for ride quality?

If you like how the trucks static dropped about 5-7" look (I would generally call this the "max" static drop most folks complete), it CAN be done without notching. The caveat is that you'll lose a little range of motion,load carryigng shock choice, bumpstops are all affected. You also lose towing capacity as part of the range-of-motion issue if it matters. A small notch clears all this up, and the trucks ride and handle just fine on that amount of drop. At this level of drop, there isn't a reason for bags, as you'll still clear most obstacles, potholes, and speedbumps without dragging your oil pan.

If you want more drop than that, then both bags and notching come into play.

You don't need a notch to bag it, but you do need a notch if you want to drop it more than about 5-6", regardless of whether or not you bother with bags. IMO by trying to setup bags and only do a 5" drop, you'll be spending a lot more money, and not taking advantage of the new equipment.

[ob1monkey]

I'll chime in here, I run my 66 lwb without a notch and bags. What i have found is that with Firestone 2500's in the back bolted in place of the spring no adapters, when i ride it the frame slaps the axle due to not enough pressure in the bags like 45 psi each side. if i up the pressure the spring rate gets better but then the back is to high. I have since swapped to 2600 bags and 2 inch blocks(have not put the bed back on yet). this should allow me to run more air in the bags and not have the frame slap issue. I have not notched the frame yet due to a one piece drive shaft and no clearance on the trailing arm cross member. You may solve the driveway issue with bags but the issue i described may be what you end up with. another good example is when i had the 2500's and had about 300lbs in the bed. aired up to 55-60psi it would be the same height i like and not slap the frame.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by ob1monkey

I'll chime in here, I run my 66 lwb without a notch and bags. What i have found is that with Firestone 2500's in the back bolted in place of the spring no adapters, when i ride it the frame slaps the axle due to not enough pressure in the bags like 45 psi each side. if i up the pressure the spring rate gets better but then the back is to high. I have since swapped to 2600 bags and 2 inch blocks(have not put the bed back on yet). this should allow me to run more air in the bags and not have the frame slap issue. I have not notched the frame yet due to a one piece drive shaft and no clearance on the trailing arm cross member. You may solve the driveway issue with bags but the issue i described may be what you end up with. another good example is when i had the 2500's and had about 300lbs in the bed. aired up to 55-60psi it would be the same height i like and not slap the frame.

Be careful, Firestone's don't have internal bumpstops. If your getting to max compression, you can actually tear the bag (like pinch-flatting a tire)

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Be careful, Firestone's don't have internal bumpstops. If your getting to max compression, you can actually tear the bag (like pinch-flatting a tire)

Double convoluted bags do per info from Ride Tech. Tapered or rolling sleeve bags don't.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Double convoluted bags do per info from Ride Tech. Tapered or rolling sleeve bags don't.

I'm glad they added it at least. It used to be that Slam was the only company that had internal bumpstops, and others were adding it.

Funny that you mention it; I never think about the convoluted bags when someone says Firestone. They became synonymous with the cheap sleeve bags for Air Over Leaf /2link kits in the minitrucking days.

[ob1monkey]

never heard that one, I just removed the set that i had been running since 2003, due to the appearance of dryrott. no leaks or symptoms. kept the pair of 2600's for emergency spares and gave a friend the 2500's to use as above his leafs for a better ride. thanks for watchin out though.

[primetime]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Without notching, your truck won't get low enough to NOT function on your daily commute.


Why is it you don't want to notch?

I want to recap what you want to do, since I can't tell if you WANT to bag the truck, or just think you need to for ride quality?

.

I don't want a notch because that means I would have to pay someone else to do it for me, I can't weld yet.
I want to bag the truck because I feel I need the ability to raise the vehicle height in certain areas of my local commute. heck, even my driveway is at an angle to where I believe lowering my truck with a static drop can be an issue.
I like the other trucks that are lowered all the way and got the rims tucked, but I wouldn't want to drive one. I want a nice dropped stance with 17's 0r 18's rims and not tear my truck up on potholes, speed bumps, or my own driveway

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by primetime

I don't want a notch because that means I would have to pay someone else to do it for me, I can't weld yet....
I want a nice dropped stance with 17's 0r 18's rims and not tear my truck up on potholes, speed bumps, or my own driveway

You could go with a bolt-in notch for now and do additional welding on it later. You could even have a local mobile welding service come over to the house and weld up your bolt-in notch on the perimeter for not a whole lot of money. Most of those guys are pretty good welders and they can knock it out quick. Some actually work for beer (hint).

[Tx Firefighter]

Don't put together a wonky setup because you're afraid of a c notch. Like restoguy said, get a bolt in notch. Then, a trip to Harbor Freight for an electric drill and an angle grinder will set you back about 50 bucks. From that point on, all you need is an extension cord to run the tools and the desire to get under there and work on it. Doing it with basic tools like that is a bit tougher, but it's still a half day job overall. Then, you've got it notched and you can build the truck you really want instead of compromising.