Rear 4-Link Suspension SALE!!

[michellenolimit]

OFFERING A DISCOUNT TO ALL OF OUR FORUM MEMBERS!!

*Our Fatbar 4-link suspension is designed for TRUCKS!
We use a 220lb spring and a 5” shock for a smoother ride, rather than many other kits that use a 3” stroke shock. This means they must use a 300/350lb. spring.
The longer bar that we use allows a smoother weight transfer, which trucks desperately need. “Parallel” 4-bar kits do not offer any weight transfer.

This is not an opinion, it’s physics. Our kit comes with a 30” rear mounted panhard rod that has less radial deflection and LOWER ROLL CENTER than short, top mounted locators.

If you’re building a hot rod truck, build it with parts designed for a truck. LIKE THE FATBAR! The Fatbar is designed to use a 5-stroke coil-over, the only kit on the market that will give you the ride and performance you’re looking for!

**This is not a Roadster 4-bar that has been adapted.
**The fatbar is stronger than any street kit on the market.

50 Kits Being Sold at this PRICE

Basic Fatbar - Retail $625.00.... SALE $559.00



OPTIONAL UPGRADES:

Coilover Kit... Retail $535.00 - SALE $435.00

Air Bag Kit... Retail $499.00 - SALE $419.00

Shockwave Kit... Retail $959.00 SALE $850.00
Boxing Plates
& "C" Notch Kit Retail $72.00 SALE $59.00


Exclusive offer until THESE KITS ARE GONE * * *


Call US @ 888-297-6032 or drop me a PM!!

[63 & 64 Bowties]

That's a serious sale
Welcome to the forum michelle

[Jerry Jones]

Nice! Welcome aboard!

[solidaxel]

Thanks Michelle (and Rob) for your support.

How about a sale on your Fat Bar traction bar kit !!!!!

[michellenolimit]

Thanks guys! You'll see me around a lot more.

[robnolimit]

Just back from P-town Goodguys, We won the auto-x truck class, for the 5th win this year. You can get the same performance with our rear suspension kits.

[robnolimit]

Thanks for the great response to our first sale on this site. Looks like we'll have to give you guys some more. Thanks again.

[cajundragger]

you say your kit offers weight transfer. and that "parallel" 4 bars do not offer transfer...but your kit is a parallel 4 bar with a panhard. so which is it? also from what I've studied weight transfer has to do with instant centers and your anti-squat %, not really your link layout.

also, you say your panhard has less "radial deflection" than shorter bars...correct me if Im wrong but radial deflection would be deflection in the direction of the radius of the tube which would be the deformation of the actual cross section shape of the tube. so if S is your cross section shape and X is your length then your saying your ds/dx is less than a shorter bar. which means you either have a thicker wall or are using some superior metal since a shorter tube will always deflect less than a longer tube if they are the same size/shape/material.

but anyways, Im having trouble figuring out how exactly radial deflection of the tube has anything to do with how awesome the bar is? In my mind as long as the tube maintains its length through the range of forces it sees then its A-ok. this would be axial deformation correct?

also, I've wondered for years and I've read the "about no limit" part of your website, but do you or anyone on your staff have a degree in engineering?

I mean no disrespect to you, Rob, or anyone on your team. I do fear that many people will read this ad and see the big words and just nod with approval. The whole industry is moving away from the "where there's a welder there's a way" mantra and more into the calculated "engineered" way of things, which I totally dig being that I study mechanical engineering.

[MrDude_1]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

you say your kit offers weight transfer. and that "parallel" 4 bars do not offer transfer...but your kit is a parallel 4 bar with a panhard. so which is it? also from what I've studied weight transfer has to do with instant centers and your anti-squat %, not really your link layout.

also, you say your panhard has less "radial deflection" than shorter bars...correct me if Im wrong but radial deflection would be deflection in the direction of the radius of the tube which would be the deformation of the actual cross section shape of the tube. so if S is your cross section shape and X is your length then your saying your ds/dx is less than a shorter bar. which means you either have a thicker wall or are using some superior metal since a shorter tube will always deflect less than a longer tube if they are the same size/shape/material.

but anyways, Im having trouble figuring out how exactly radial deflection of the tube has anything to do with how awesome the bar is? In my mind as long as the tube maintains its length through the range of forces it sees then its A-ok. this would be axial deformation correct?

also, I've wondered for years and I've read the "about no limit" part of your website, but do you or anyone on your staff have a degree in engineering?

I mean no disrespect to you, Rob, or anyone on your team. I do fear that many people will read this ad and see the big words and just nod with approval. The whole industry is moving away from the "where there's a welder there's a way" mantra and more into the calculated "engineered" way of things, which I totally dig being that I study mechanical engineering.

i didnt want to come off as flaming a vendor, but i saw the exact same thing.

also, they claim to be "stronger than any street kit on the market"... well alot of them on the market are extremely oversized and overkill.. so you end up with a suspension that works no better, but weighs alot more. thats where engineering actually comes in. you either build it right for the application, or you dont. theres no need for extreme diameter, extremely thick, heavy tubes when they get connected to a frame thats only a fraction as strong...

not knocking the kit, im sure its great.. but id recommend taking the sales pitch down a notch, speaking in more reasonable, non-sales terms.. and just counting on the quality of the product to sell it.

[robnolimit]

Well at least you'r interested. Yes, it is true, Parallel 4- bars offer no weight transfer. This comment is in referance to the upper bar vs the lower bar. Not side to side. That being said, out FatBar 4-bar kits are Not parallel. When properly set up, the lower bar should be level, and the upper bar sloping down hill (in the front) at 5 to 7 deg. This will put the instant center just ahead of the front wheel, and the rate of rise at appx. 35%. I guess I need to apologise for using the term "radial deflection" without qualifying the center or path. We use the term to describe the amount of side to side motion as the panhard rod travels up and down (the radius being the length of the panhard rod). There are many factors that relate to strength. We use the best quality components that we can. Grade-8 bolts,- (not 5 or 3 or ?) Forged thickwall stainless adjusters (not a bolt welded to a tube) and top quality urathane bushings - 85 dur., with .090 sleaves, not .060 sleaves that tend to 'oval' under load. Our bars are made from 1.25 x .090" tubing, with a 4140 thread insert, and a .188 wall DOM bushing tube. Historically our competition has used 1"x .156 wall tubing and threaded it directly. That makes our FatBars lighter and stronger than most, though some of the others are catching on. If you knew us, you would know that we are interested in helping ALL of the industry put out better products. And they have been copying us for over 20 yrs. As to the "Engineering" tag of our business, while it is true that we can't start a train, I did attend, and graduate from Cal Poly Pomona with an E/E degree, and have been studying physics and engineering as it relates to automotive performance for the last 25+ yrs. I'm not at all against defending the quality of our parts, or thier performance. We have tried to fair and professional since we opened in 1984. If you take a look at the " make it handle " thread in the suspension forum, i have been trying to answer, and bring these concepts to light. Thanks for the interest, Rob.

[chev58]

do you think a 4-link or a triangulared both will have shockwave air ride is the best setup for a 58 apache with a 10 bolt chevy thanks peter

[robnolimit]

I've kinda been trying to avoid this, but here goes. We don't make a triangulated 4-bar, even though we could. I know that Ford, GM and others did, but they also made Pintos and Vegas. So, here's the thing, in a tri set up, three of the four bars are ALWAYS moving in conflicting arcs, which means the bushings are in a bind, or binding. You can use a piviting bushing, such as a rod end or a pivit ball, or a really soft bushing. But, will it drive and handle as good as a quality 5 link set up? I doubt it.

[candyx]

Rob

Do you plan to have a IFS sale any time soon? I would even sacrifice my 57 3100 as a test vehicle.Send me one of your free IFS and i will install it and then report to everyone how good the product is along with photos.That way you can save a ton on advertizing!!!!

[chev58]

you know you make a lot of sense i think i'll go with 4-link thanks peter

[cajundragger]

when you said parallel I, as Im sure others as well, thought of a parallel 4 bar as compared to a triangulated 4 bar, making your claims completely confusing.

but if you build your links with correct geometry in them then all the props to you and your company.

although I do agree that tri4 links should be limited to the street, when built with proper geometry they do work very well. I went well over 100mph at this past Dallas Goodguys event in my truck and it handled like a dream. Would it work that well on an autocross? not as well as a parallel link with a watts/mumford/panhard but for the packaging advantages it offers it solves many problems and shouldn't be counted out. IMO of course.

[robnolimit]

Hey, sorry for that. I read the add and can't find where we called the FatBar a parallel 4-bar kit. Yes, I do agree that tri-4 bar kits can work well, especially when coupled to a coil-over or coil spring so that travel is limited. But, I'm sure you'd agree that when coupled with an air spring, when travel is increased, the bushing bind would get worse and worse. Over 1 million chevelles on the road will attest to the fact that they can work, but then so do leaf springs. We just think that if your going to upgrade, go for the best. Have a great Thanksgiving.

[robnolimit]

BTW, Ft. Worth was a blast. I can't post my speed on the track cruise, but I was givin a stern talking to from the pace car driver, and the track stewerd. Oops. You should have come by the autocross, i'm always glad to give somebody a ride.

[robnolimit]

Don't miis out on this, only ten days left.

[mrchevy1950]

It was a pleasure talking to you at the Good guys Pleasonton show. The truck and the 46 ford beat the pants off the competition!

[robnolimit]

Thanks, we had a great time, but the 46 is showing it's age. Time to be freshened up a bit. time for some rings and bearings.

[ChuckDriver]

Has the sale ended?

[robnolimit]

Yes, it's on till the end of the year. Merry Christmas

[candyx]

Hey Rob

How thick is the steel on your IFS cross member ?

[robnolimit]

On WideRide crossmembers, the main crossmember is 3 x 4 x .120 wall. The uprights are formed from 3/16", the upper A-arm tube carrier is 1/4" wall, as is the upper coil-over mount. The lower A-arm mount tube is 1 3/4" x .120 wall tube with 1" thick billit end caps. Lower A-arms are .188" wall, and uppers are .120" wall. Hope that answers your question. Rob

[troy54gmc]

Hey Rob. ive been reading your suspension tech threads for some time now and i think you know exactly what your doing and can back it up. My question is im building a 54 GMC and built the rear frame from 2x6 tubing and now im in the process of saving money for a suspension setup for it. I found a triangular setup here locally on craigslist for $250. but after reading ur articles about how the triangular setups bind i am rethinking about going with the 4-link parallel with panhard bar. I know you say to mount it on the outside of the frame or your allready lost. the problem i have with this is the rear mount for the running boards is right in the way of where my mount would go. So would mounting it on the inside of the frame make that much of a difference? im not planning on raceing or anything just want it to handle very nice. Also i plan on using airbags and a good quality shock. I attached a picture of the frame so you can see what im talking about. also a picture of the triangular setup on craiglist. Thanks for any info. Troy.

$250 for the complete kit-Call-480-385-9700- Complete weld on Triangulated 4 link suspension. Mini truck Hot Rod rat rod Eurethane bushings. 6-Brackets 4-Powdercoated bars 21" long. 1-Bag of hardware. Axle Brackets are for 2.75" or 3" housing.