Newbie...Big Build Questions (51')

[kentukblue]

HELLO! First Post here...and when we get working Ill put together a build thread. But a few Poll questions first.

VISION:
Were planning a 2006 LS 6.0L LQ9 VortecMAX(SS engine) swap into my late fathers 1951 Chevy 3100 5 window. Donor truck is lined up and ready. Not necessarily looking for a Pro-touring style truck but want it to perform well on the road. Dropped a few inches from stock with wider wheels but not laying frame.

Initially we were looking at an S-10 swap since that seems to be the popular(and cheap) way to go but the more I dig the more it seems that an IFS/mustang II isnt going to be that much more after cab/body mounts are bought and might offer more performance and better looks.

QUESTIONS:

#1: Frame/ Front Suspension: S-10 or OEM with IFS/Mustang II (Scott's, Heidts)?...Why or why not?

#2: Rear End: With the 6.0L LQ9 producing 345HP & 380ft/lb that originally carried a 4.10 HD rear what would be a good application for the 51'(or S-10) frame? Would a 3.73 - 8.5 4x4 Blazer axle handle it? Exlporer 8.8? Or should I be looking for something heavier? I'm guessing maybe I should match the original LS rear's 4.10 gearing?

#3: Rear Suspension: With either frame choice what rear suspension(outside of a 4 link) offers a lower ride height with road performance?


THANKS

[OrrieG]

1. I am definately and OEM frame and bolt, weld on new pieces. It is reversible if something does not work and you do not have the hassle of getting the cab/hood/front clip alignment correct, which can be a big issue on AD trucks.
2. Depends on how hard you are going to drop the hammer, I will let others chime in. To figure out the ratio google "speed rpm calculator" and a number of sites will show up that let you enter trans ratio, rearend ratio, tire size and mph to calculate rpm. You can leave any one variable blank and it calc it. For instance you would fill in everything except tire size and see how diameter affects rpm. There are also calculators that you can enter frontal area and it will tell you how much hp is required to get to a certain MPH with the other variables, salt flat and road race guys use it.
3. No experience with 4 link, but from what I see here, it will lower some, but you do reach a point where notching the frame is required. Take a look at some of the build threads to get an idea of where that point is.

sound like a good project.

[Hilljack51]

I share a lot of the same views as OrrieG.

1. Since your going to have to modify the S-10 frame and suspension for the 6.0, the mustang II would be your best bet to getting a good ride that'll hold the weight of the v8. Plus, considering the width difference from the S-10 chassis to the original, I always thought they looked strange sitting under such a large bodied truck.

2. I'm doing a similar project, but with the 5.3 instead of the 6.0, and I have a rear end out of a 4th gen F body. Smaller axle housing 2.75" but I'm not planning on hauling anything, plus it has posi traction and 3.73 gears.

3. Can't really answer this one from experience. I have truck arms of a 69 under mine. But I'm bagging it, and laying low. If you don't want to go too low you might be fine keeping the leafs out back.

[Root2812]

I also vote stock frame and mustang II. I got the Fatman Fabrications kit for about $2000 and I am very happy with it. With a little extra boxing your stock frame will handle the power of that motor. I have a 5.3 in mine so I'm about 40-50hp behind you.

The ford 8.8 rear end is a good choice. That's why I picked it. The 8.8 is just a smidge smaller than the Ford 9inch and still has 31 spline axles. Some guys say the C-clip axles are weak but that's only if you plan to beat the piss out of it. Then you can get a pit to get rid of the c-clips. Mine came from a 2000 explorer that had a 5.0 V8 so it has 3.73 gears and fords version of Posi. Plus they can have rear dick brakes on them.

Like you I wanted lower but not laying frame. Bags are a lot more money and I just don't like the laid out look. I opted for the TCI leaf Spring kit. Its nearly all bolt on and can be done in a day. I think the built in drop was 3-4 inches over stock and you can always use lowering blocks later if you want. Shipped from Speedway Motors it was about $650.

You can check out my build thread to see al these things since that's what I used. I'd say I have about $3000 in my suspension but its all new including brakes and the power steering rack. Truth is that a S10 swap will be cheaper, but it will take more fabrication work and time. Not to mention that S10s were not performance vehicles. You see a lot of guys swap the s10 suspension to bags, if you do that you are right back up there in price. I feel my set up will out handle a stock S10.

One last thing, I like all builds but to me personally the s10 swap kills the flavor of a classic truck. I just like the idea of modified stock. Everyone has an opinion and that's mine. Good luck on your build.

[kentukblue]

I keep reading about the common rear axle choices...4x4 s-10 & explorer 8.8. I would like to keep GM products underneath but that might not be an option because ive also heard the S-10 axles are a little weak for a lot of torque and I am guessing a full size GM rear would really have to be cut down to work, so the ford 8.8 or 9 might have to be in there.

Also, my transmission guy suggested keeping a 4.10 geared rear being as thats what the 6.0 & 4L65E was mated to.

The rear suspension I would like to keep with what ever company i choose for front...right now its between Scotts, Heidts and TCI. I guess i can mate either a coil over or spring kit with 4 link? Rear setup is really not my strong suit...good thing im not doing the work.

[kentukblue]

I hear guys who choose the IFS route talk about adjust-ability in hindsight. Of course quality parts and materials is important but function/ease is high on my list as well. Ease of adjusting and not having to re-adjust and align often is a big plus. Any setups stand out in this way? Shim adjustment better?

[Highsider]

Risking being guilty of a possible thread highjack, I have NO idea what I have here for a rear spring, because my truck was already built.

Can my rear be slightly lowered by using a shorter spacer block and shorter u-bolts?

Please, anybody, tell me what you see and/or think. Just trying to learn, here.




Here is how she sits and it rides really nice with a small load in back, but decent empty, too.