tremec tkx into 1972 c10?

[Duncan_s]

I have been looking into converting my aging, and broken mounting lobe 3 speed transmission, I'm wanting to go with a strong manual with overdrive, and while the tkx being pricey; it would be something to last me a lifetime. I think my existing bellhousing would work good. Other than that i have several questions i hope some of you guys could answer for me. is a high hump transmission tunnel required? lastly, is it possible to be able to run the stock shifter location and simply flipped 180 degrees around?
Thank you.

[pjmoreland]

Here's a writeup I did when I installed a TKX in my truck.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=847466

I have been battling a high-speed vibration since installing the TKX. I just got it back from sending it in to Tremec to have it checked out. They replaced a bunch of parts inside of it. I haven't finished reinstalling it yet to know if the problem has been solved. At this point, I cannot recommend going with a TKX. I would be inclined to go with something more robust like an NV4500. Richmond Gear makes a transmission that is made in the USA and it is similar to the TKX.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rmg-r502064c

[Duncan_s]

thats unfortunate to hear, i dont want to state the obvious or maybe you have already checked but to me a high speed vibration screams an unbalanced driveline, could that be the problem?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Duncan_s

thats unfortunate to hear, i dont want to state the obvious or maybe you have already checked but to me a high speed vibration screams an unbalanced driveline, could that be the problem?

I wish that were the case. I have my u-joint angles dialed in so that they are both less than one degree (opposite directions). I also replaced my driveshaft with a high-speed balanced one from Denny's Driveshsft. Neither of these things have made any difference.

[Duncan_s]

That sucks, for the money you pay you should not have to deal with these problems, good they are looking it over, there is always the chance of getting a bad egg with any of these things. Tremec is pretty reputable, i don't think its a case of them just having a bad design. but then again im not you and i havent experienced these things. ive looked over your thread and it seems like the install isnt too bad, you mentioned that you originally wanted to go with an mdl shifter, does that require modification of the shafts?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Duncan_s

That sucks, for the money you pay you should not have to deal with these problems, good they are looking it over, there is always the chance of getting a bad egg with any of these things. Tremec is pretty reputable, i don't think its a case of them just having a bad design. but then again im not you and i havent experienced these things. ive looked over your thread and it seems like the install isnt too bad, you mentioned that you originally wanted to go with an mdl shifter, does that require modification of the shafts?

The MDL shifter does not require cutting the shafts.

Tremec is now selling a mid shifter. It retains the 5th - reverse shift blocking mechanism. It's also less expensive than the other options. The shafts don't get cut for this one either.

https://www.shiftsst.com/tckt18206-t...shift-kit/p302

[Duncan_s]

Awesome great thanks for the info, i figured tremec sold their own shifter, just couldnt find it, surprising cheap, makes ya think its not good quality almost!

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Duncan_s

Awesome great thanks for the info, i figured tremec sold their own shifter, just couldnt find it, surprising cheap, makes ya think its not good quality almost!

It is difficult to shift from 2nd to 3rd with my current mid-shifter. I have to be very deliberate about letting the shifter flop into neutral before shoving it forward into 3rd. If I don't, it just doesn't want to go in. My guess is that I didn't file the chamfers quite big enough on the center selector. I have also accidentally hit R once lightly while trying to shift from 5th to 4th. I purchased one of these new Tremec mid-shifters recently. I installed it, but I haven't driven with it yet. I like that it comes with a new center selector with the chamfers added already. My impression is that the quality is good. Time will tell though.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I wish that were the case. I have my u-joint angles dialed in so that they are both less than one degree (opposite directions). I also replaced my driveshaft with a high-speed balanced one from Denny's Driveshsft. Neither of these things have made any difference.

I am not a driveshaft guru but I have always heard that you need more than 1º angle on the shaft. You need the U-joints to actually "work" for bearing lubrication.

Here is a pretty good discussion on the subject:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799022
.

[PbFut]

If you are missing shift gates, it is likely do to two things. Driveline torqueing over moving the gate position and chicken choking the shift handle. This happens a lot in road racing because of the huge stress the chase is placed under. Don't hold the handle tight. Push it with the palm of your hand in the direction you want. Or pull with your fingers. Allow the shifter's spring to find the gate.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I am not a driveshaft guru but I have always heard that you need more than 1º angle on the shaft. You need the U-joints to actually "work" for bearing lubrication.

Here is a pretty good discussion on the subject:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799022
.

I have heard that, too. I was following advice from Denny of Denny's Driveshaft, a well-known shop that makes high-speed balanced driveshafts. I agree that having more than one degree of angle is better for the u-joints, but in my case the more pressing issue was the vibration I'm trying to fix.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I have heard that, too. I was following advice from Denny of Denny's Driveshaft, a well-known shop that makes high-speed balanced driveshafts. I agree that having more than one degree of angle is better for the u-joints, but in my case the more pressing issue was the vibration I'm trying to fix.

I have also read that not enough angle can cause vibration too. How much angle did you start out with?
.

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I am not a driveshaft guru but I have always heard that you need more than 1º angle on the shaft. You need the U-joints to actually "work" for bearing lubrication.

Here is a pretty good discussion on the subject:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799022
.

This is true in an industrial installation. With the suspension travel, it is not a concern on a typical automotive application.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Duncan_s

I have been looking into converting my aging, and broken mounting lobe 3 speed transmission, I'm wanting to go with a strong manual with overdrive, and while the tkx being pricey; it would be something to last me a lifetime. I think my existing bellhousing would work good. Other than that i have several questions i hope some of you guys could answer for me. is a high hump transmission tunnel required? lastly, is it possible to be able to run the stock shifter location and simply flipped 180 degrees around?
Thank you.

Sorry about the hijack.

I would also recommend the NV4500 5 speed overdrive if it is a work type truck. I put one in my C30 Dually and it works great. The thing you have to remember about them is that they are a little more clunky than the car type 5 speeds. The 1st gear is really low like the "Granny Low" 4 speeds. I very seldom use it, And you can't speed shift it.

Here is a thread I posted on my NV4500 swap.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=673588
.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I have also read that not enough angle can cause vibration too. How much angle did you start out with?
.

I started at 3 degrees.

[Duncan_s]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Sorry about the hijack.

I would also recommend the NV4500 5 speed overdrive if it is a work type truck. I put one in my C30 Dually and it works great. The thing you have to remember about them is that they are a little more clunky than the car type 5 speeds. The 1st gear is really low like the "Granny Low" 4 speeds. I very seldom use it, And you can't speed shift it.

Here is a thread I posted on my NV4500 swap.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=673588
.

I have looked into those as well, it is great that you can be able to run all those newer 5 speed transmissions in these older trucks, and they make for a good cruising or work transmission, im planning to throw some 3.73's and hop up this old 350 small block a little bit, so i was looking for a fast shifting but strong manual with od. but thanks for the recommendation.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Duncan_s

I have looked into those as well, it is great that you can be able to run all those newer 5 speed transmissions in these older trucks, and they make for a good cruising or work transmission, im planning to throw some 3.73's and hop up this old 350 small block a little bit, so i was looking for a fast shifting but strong manual with od. but thanks for the recommendation.

No problem. I will be following along to see what you decide to do.
.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

I went TKX this last winter in my truck and love it. Its the most quiet manual trans Ive ever had and no real issues putting a couple thousand miles on this spring and summer. You can click on my link in my sig for my trucks build thread, just go near the end for the motor/trans update.

I had a M21 muncie 4 speed and the TKX was a direct swap for the most part in terms of space requirements. I have a low hump floor piece in my truck. Its tight, but does clear. I had to slightly trim my shifter hole, but I was using a 68-72 Chevelle Hurst comp plus brain as it would put the handle closer to centerline with the 4 speed and not off to the side. I was able to reuse my tri five chevy bench seat handle. If you have the typical floor shift conversion, you will most likly have to make a new hole as the TKX is shifted on the top dead center of the case.

[KQQL IT]

We put one in 56 bel air for my brother.
In place of 3 on the tree and a 235
Used the bell housing
A corvette clutch
My son built a crossmember for it.
Been a year of near daily use.

1310 u joint to a 1350 in the back
3.25 gear in a 9in could be a 3.50-3.70

No issues so far

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

I went TKX this last winter in my truck and love it. Its the most quiet manual trans Ive ever had and no real issues putting a couple thousand miles on this spring and summer. You can click on my link in my sig for my trucks build thread, just go near the end for the motor/trans update.

I had a M21 muncie 4 speed and the TKX was a direct swap for the most part in terms of space requirements. I have a low hump floor piece in my truck. Its tight, but does clear. I had to slightly trim my shifter hole, but I was using a 68-72 Chevelle Hurst comp plus brain as it would put the handle closer to centerline with the 4 speed and not off to the side. I was able to reuse my tri five chevy bench seat handle. If you have the typical floor shift conversion, you will most likly have to make a new hole as the TKX is shifted on the top dead center of the case.

I'm glad to hear that it is possible to get a TKX to work well in our trucks. I'm curious about your setup.

Which TKX did you get?
TCET18083 3.27 1st, 0.72 5th
TCET17722 2.87 1st, 0.81 5th
TCET17805 2.87 1st, 0.68 5th

What rear end gears are you running?

What are the specs of your driveshaft?
One-piece or two
Material
Diameter
U-joint size

What are your u-joint angles?

What type of transmission crossmember did you use?

[Duncan_s]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

I went TKX this last winter in my truck and love it. Its the most quiet manual trans Ive ever had and no real issues putting a couple thousand miles on this spring and summer. You can click on my link in my sig for my trucks build thread, just go near the end for the motor/trans update.

I had a M21 muncie 4 speed and the TKX was a direct swap for the most part in terms of space requirements. I have a low hump floor piece in my truck. Its tight, but does clear. I had to slightly trim my shifter hole, but I was using a 68-72 Chevelle Hurst comp plus brain as it would put the handle closer to centerline with the 4 speed and not off to the side. I was able to reuse my tri five chevy bench seat handle. If you have the typical floor shift conversion, you will most likly have to make a new hole as the TKX is shifted on the top dead center of the case.

Just got it ordered, great to hear that it fit good in a low hump, my truck is an unmolested stock 1972 c10 so im not dealing with a cut up tunnel, the mid shift should put it somewhere close to stock shifter hole which will look great.

[Chevy nutcase]

This spring I replaced the sm420 in my 66 with a tkx 068 5th gear along with replacing the 250 with a 350 and I couldn't be happier. With the 3.43 gears I put in the rear I can do 70 mph all day an be right around 1900-2000 rpm. Used the bellhousing from the 250 but had to center it on the 350 using offset dowels. Used the stock 2 pc driveshaft. For a crossmember I used one from a 71 c10 automatic trans. Only modification was I had to space it up on 1" aluminum blocks that I machined.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I'm glad to hear that it is possible to get a TKX to work well in our trucks. I'm curious about your setup.

Which TKX did you get?
TCET18083 3.27 1st, 0.72 5th
TCET17722 2.87 1st, 0.81 5th
TCET17805 2.87 1st, 0.68 5th

What rear end gears are you running?

What are the specs of your driveshaft?
One-piece or two
Material
Diameter
U-joint size

What are your u-joint angles?

What type of transmission crossmember did you use?

I went with the 18083 unit. I have 3:42 rear gears. Driveshaft is a one piece steel unit. I would have to measure the tube as I cant recall, u joints are just standard pieces, the shop never mentioned anything specific. Im using a crossmember from brothers trucks, of the low profile bolt in square tube units, rear end is still set like the factory. My truck is lowered 6" but you can still visually see the drive line droop from the trans to the rear.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

I went with the 18083 unit. I have 3:42 rear gears. Driveshaft is a one piece steel unit. I would have to measure the tube as I cant recall, u joints are just standard pieces, the shop never mentioned anything specific. Im using a crossmember from brothers trucks, of the low profile bolt in square tube units, rear end is still set like the factory. My truck is lowered 6" but you can still visually see the drive line droop from the trans to the rear.

Going with the 18083 combined with a numerically lower rear end is nice because it reduces the driveshaft RPM at a given speed. I've got the 17805 with 3.73 gears, so my driveshaft is spinning 10% faster than yours.