HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

old cruiser · 11-27-2011, 09:35 PM

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-bra...65-66-CHROME-/
The system above is what I purchased a few months back as i was piecing together disc conversion as I could afford to. Now thinking of just spliiting lines and keeping drum/drum for a while. Question time, do I need to fit residual valves in the lines near m/c ? I know I,ll need prop valve when I evenyually put discs on front and when that happens would I keep the residual valve connected for rear?
Sorry to enter this thread with these Qs but keeping all break info together may help others.
Cheers Matt

**slepysal** · 08-15-2009, 02:33 PM

John you did have to drill new holes for the master right?

**ChiefRocka** · 08-15-2009, 02:44 PM

No, not at all...it bolted right up.

Course, thats cause us 63 and up guys are special !

jonzcustomshop · 08-25-2009, 09:11 PM

2 questions..
could Isee a pic of your tubing bender? not the belly

the actual bender.
and, does this kind of system need a proportioning valve?

**ChiefRocka** · 08-26-2009, 09:15 AM

It looks like this one....I also have the Matco double flaring kit.
-
-
Using a drum/drum master (two port Impala) you do not need a prop valve.
-
-

**jocko** · 04-29-2011, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

It looks like this one....I also have the Matco double flaring kit.
-
-
Using a drum/drum master (two port Impala) you do not need a prop valve.
-
-

Chief or anyone - is there an easy way to tell a drum/drum master from a disk/drum by looking at it. I ordered a 67 C10 dual res mc from oreilly's - but there was no way of ordering a "drum/drum" vs "disk/drum". It just was what it was, only one option. (or did 67's not even have a disk brake option? - if no, then any mc ordered for a 67 would be drum/drum by default?)

Happy to show my lack of 67-72 knowledge in order to find an answer!
thanks.
jocko

ljackson · 10-02-2009, 07:16 AM

Hi Chief, Great write up. I am currently doing this on my '64. Got some questions. Did your old master have a 1" bore? What about the new one? My '64 is 1". The master at O'reilly's for a '70 Impala, drum/drum, no power, was 1 1/8. The master with a 1" bore was listed for discs with power. I believe I have read on other posts that using 1 1/8" master will make the brakes feel spongy. Do I have that right? Is the 1" bore the one to go with? I wonder if the parts store has it listed wrong? Thanks in advance for any help from anyone that can.
Eugene

**ChiefRocka** · 10-02-2009, 08:50 AM

Not exactly sure, I'd have to research that.

I went with one from a '67 Impala. At the time, my buddys 67 Impala was in my shop, so I compared them.

The brakes on the black truck worked great...full pressure and never spongy.

My new truck will recieve the same treatment, although this one will get 6-lugs discs.

*CWT* · 10-02-2009, 03:20 PM

I also used a 69 Corvette M/C with my rear disc setup. Works great. Cost around $35.

ljackson · 10-03-2009, 06:58 AM

Thanks Chief, any help is greatly appreciated.

NF65Fleetside · 12-23-2009, 09:07 PM

dug this one up cause I really want to do this. Question though, can I just buy new pre-bent lines from the Truck shop and make it a full on bolt in affair? I dont mind spending the extra cash since I dont have the time/space to fab up the lines myself.

Chuck78 · 12-24-2009, 02:41 PM

the lines are real easy to bend, in fact, if just keeping the 4 whl drums, you don't even need to cut and flare the lines if you buy the right lengths, see my posts on this and it probably gives you the lengths I used. When doing discs up front, you will need a lot more plumbing for the prop valve and all.

rain_man · 01-04-2010, 05:43 PM

QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons.
i have a 61 c10 and i think i have every thing i need to complete the master swap. im useing a master i bought from autozone for $15 bucks it is from a 67 c10.
just have a few questions first thanks
1. do i have to drill new holes for this master
2. what mods are needed for push rod(pics please)
3.what is everyone useing for brake lines (they said n/a at auto zone) mine are a little soft.

thanks for all the info

**ChiefRocka** · 01-05-2010, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rain_man

QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons.
i have a 61 c10 and i think i have every thing i need to complete the master swap. im useing a master i bought from autozone for $15 bucks it is from a 67 c10.
just have a few questions first thanks
1. do i have to drill new holes for this master
2. what mods are needed for push rod(pics please)
3.what is everyone useing for brake lines (they said n/a at auto zone) mine are a little soft.

thanks for all the info

1) No holes need to be drilled...it'll bolt right up.

2) The push rod had to be extended. I sold my black truck, and for some reason never got pics of the rod. I cut the stock rod in half, then welded more rod between the two. I still retained the adjuster part of the rod. Once the master is installed, and the pedal is in it's released position (check your bump stops too) you want the tip of the rod to be about 1/16" to 1/8" max away from the piston.

3) I purchased some straight pieces of line from my local fittings store (or a speed shop).....it came with ends. Bent them and double flared them myself.

**Captainfab** · 01-06-2010, 01:00 AM

On the '60-'62's you will need to drill holes to bolt up a '63 and newer master cylinder

Quote:

Originally Posted by rain_man

QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons.
i have a 61 c10 and i think i have every thing i need to complete the master swap. im useing a master i bought from autozone for $15 bucks it is from a 67 c10.
just have a few questions first thanks
1. do i have to drill new holes for this master
2. what mods are needed for push rod(pics please)
3.what is everyone useing for brake lines (they said n/a at auto zone) mine are a little soft.

thanks for all the info

**ChiefRocka** · 01-07-2010, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

On the '60-'62's you will need to drill holes to bolt up a '63 and newer master cylinder

Oooops...thanks Cap, I didn't catch the year.

Keep assuming people have the 63 and up...

astrochimp · 03-06-2010, 06:35 PM

Has anyone done this, and have a parts list, and what modification the push rod needs (adjusted or welded) and length for the brake line?

If going from the 63 MC to a 67 C10 MC the bore diam is smaller 1-1/8 vs 1" from the numbers on line. IIRC this would require more peddle travel fro the same brake force?

David

jsinor1956 · 03-10-2010, 07:33 PM

John
Got my 1964 with a new master cylinder in the plastic bag on the seat not installed looks like he one you used.Is there a way to tell difference in drum/drum master and a drum/disk master? Is there a proportion valve for a drum/drum set up? Thank you
Jim

jsinor1956 · 03-10-2010, 07:47 PM

John
I have another question after reviewing, My old truck has the original master on and also has a power brake booster from a 84 C-10 on it. The power brakes seem to work OK but !!!?? The power brake rod was modified. All this has me confused I need your advice what direction do I go?
Jim

firefighter736 · 04-22-2011, 08:44 PM

Don't know if it's cool to bring this back up but I'm thinking that I really want to do this when I put my truck back together in a week or two. I get the concept with blocking off the one T and the split but where I'm lost is the push rod... anybody have clever ideas on how to make a good pushrod? Would a pushrod like this work? Any thoughts on where to get the parts it does?

Thanks!
Barry

**slepysal** · 04-22-2011, 10:03 PM

You can use your old master cylinder's push rod. If it is addjustable then addjust it out,if it is not you can have some one cut it and weld it. Or you can get an addustable one from speedway or a used one from the wreckers.
The push rod that is in the link will not work I used that type on my clutch master it had a pushrod with a threded end.

**ChiefRocka** · 04-22-2011, 11:30 PM

It was very cool to bring this back up ...

Man, haven't seen this thread in YEARS !!

Whats up SAL !!!!

**slepysal** · 04-22-2011, 11:51 PM

John !!! Hows life in the country ? Hope all is well

**ChiefRocka** · 04-23-2011, 12:34 AM

We are good .... Ive been going a serious of bad luck, but Im bouncing back slowly !!

**slepysal** · 04-23-2011, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

We are good .... Ive been going a serious of bad luck, but Im bouncing back slowly !!

you are not alone on that if it isnt one thing it is another. Hang in there

Back to the original post: my oe push rod was about 1/4 to short when fully addjusted due to the fact that I used an adapter for the master cylinder as a 60 used a 3 bolt set up and not 2. I ordered an addustable push rod from speedway it was 3/8 thred ,I used the part off of my old clutch master that attaches to the pedal, worked perfect !
Check to see if your push rod is addjustable it may work as is .

11-27-2011, 09:35 PM	#1
old cruiser Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Camperdown Vic Australia Posts: 230	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-bra...65-66-CHROME-/ The system above is what I purchased a few months back as i was piecing together disc conversion as I could afford to. Now thinking of just spliiting lines and keeping drum/drum for a while. Question time, do I need to fit residual valves in the lines near m/c ? I know I,ll need prop valve when I evenyually put discs on front and when that happens would I keep the residual valve connected for rear? Sorry to enter this thread with these Qs but keeping all break info together may help others. Cheers Matt

08-15-2009, 02:33 PM	#2
slepysal Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: San Jose NOR*CAL Posts: 3,080	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) John you did have to drill new holes for the master right? __________________ 1960 Apache long bed fleet L6 250 Clifford intake 2 bbl carb. Langdon cast headers with dual exhaust and bellflower tips. T-5 5 speed, power steering and power disc brakes. "Over, Around or through it... "

08-15-2009, 02:44 PM	#3
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,147	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) No, not at all...it bolted right up. Course, thats cause us 63 and up guys are special ! __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

08-25-2009, 09:11 PM	#4
jonzcustomshop 1961 crewcab Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: missoula, mt Posts: 6,164	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) 2 questions.. could Isee a pic of your tubing bender? not the belly the actual bender. and, does this kind of system need a proportioning valve?

08-26-2009, 09:15 AM	#5
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,147	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) It looks like this one....I also have the Matco double flaring kit. - - Using a drum/drum master (two port Impala) you do not need a prop valve. - - Attached Images __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

10-02-2009, 07:16 AM	#7
ljackson Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Amarillo, Texas Posts: 636	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) Hi Chief, Great write up. I am currently doing this on my '64. Got some questions. Did your old master have a 1" bore? What about the new one? My '64 is 1". The master at O'reilly's for a '70 Impala, drum/drum, no power, was 1 1/8. The master with a 1" bore was listed for discs with power. I believe I have read on other posts that using 1 1/8" master will make the brakes feel spongy. Do I have that right? Is the 1" bore the one to go with? I wonder if the parts store has it listed wrong? Thanks in advance for any help from anyone that can. Eugene __________________ Father and son built. Driven daily since 2012. 283, 3 speed. Mostly original. '81 PS and disk front. Fuel tank relocate. Maintenance, repairs and upgrades on his dime now. http://zacks64longfleet.shutterfly.com/ Higher res. photos in my gallery.

10-02-2009, 08:50 AM	#8
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,147	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) Not exactly sure, I'd have to research that. I went with one from a '67 Impala. At the time, my buddys 67 Impala was in my shop, so I compared them. The brakes on the black truck worked great...full pressure and never spongy. My new truck will recieve the same treatment, although this one will get 6-lugs discs. __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

10-02-2009, 03:20 PM	#9
CWT Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ARAB,ALABAMA Posts: 157	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) I also used a 69 Corvette M/C with my rear disc setup. Works great. Cost around $35.

10-03-2009, 06:58 AM	#10
ljackson Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Amarillo, Texas Posts: 636	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) Thanks Chief, any help is greatly appreciated. __________________ Father and son built. Driven daily since 2012. 283, 3 speed. Mostly original. '81 PS and disk front. Fuel tank relocate. Maintenance, repairs and upgrades on his dime now. http://zacks64longfleet.shutterfly.com/ Higher res. photos in my gallery.

12-23-2009, 09:07 PM	#11
NF65Fleetside Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 674	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) dug this one up cause I really want to do this. Question though, can I just buy new pre-bent lines from the Truck shop and make it a full on bolt in affair? I dont mind spending the extra cash since I dont have the time/space to fab up the lines myself.

12-24-2009, 02:41 PM	#12
Chuck78 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 197	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) the lines are real easy to bend, in fact, if just keeping the 4 whl drums, you don't even need to cut and flare the lines if you buy the right lengths, see my posts on this and it probably gives you the lengths I used. When doing discs up front, you will need a lot more plumbing for the prop valve and all. __________________ Chuck in Ohio 1962 GMC 1000 Panel Truck - 305D/Saginaw 4sp soon: 351C V6 + AX15 5sp OD trans, & 75-87/91 disc brake front end* 1988 Suzuki Samurai 4x4 project, VW 1.9L mTDI, Toyota R151F transmission & Toyota full floater axles, LWB body tub stretch project* *Many 1977-1979 Suzuki GS motorcycles, Kawasaki KDX220R, '77 Suzuki PE250, etc

01-04-2010, 05:43 PM	#13
rain_man Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: daytona beach fl Posts: 187	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC. Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons. i have a 61 c10 and i think i have every thing i need to complete the master swap. im useing a master i bought from autozone for $15 bucks it is from a 67 c10. just have a few questions first thanks 1. do i have to drill new holes for this master 2. what mods are needed for push rod(pics please) 3.what is everyone useing for brake lines (they said n/a at auto zone) mine are a little soft. thanks for all the info __________________ 61 step/long bed SBW(SOLD) NEED A NEW PROJECT Last edited by rain_man; 01-04-2010 at 05:43 PM.

03-06-2010, 06:35 PM	#17
astrochimp Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Unionville Mo. Posts: 217	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) Has anyone done this, and have a parts list, and what modification the push rod needs (adjusted or welded) and length for the brake line? If going from the 63 MC to a 67 C10 MC the bore diam is smaller 1-1/8 vs 1" from the numbers on line. IIRC this would require more peddle travel fro the same brake force? David

03-10-2010, 07:33 PM	#18
jsinor1956 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: grapevine Texas Posts: 29	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) John Got my 1964 with a new master cylinder in the plastic bag on the seat not installed looks like he one you used.Is there a way to tell difference in drum/drum master and a drum/disk master? Is there a proportion valve for a drum/drum set up? Thank you Jim

03-10-2010, 07:47 PM	#19
jsinor1956 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: grapevine Texas Posts: 29	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) John I have another question after reviewing, My old truck has the original master on and also has a power brake booster from a 84 C-10 on it. The power brakes seem to work OK but !!!?? The power brake rod was modified. All this has me confused I need your advice what direction do I go? Jim



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04-22-2011, 08:44 PM	#20
firefighter736 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Floyd/Salem VA Posts: 148	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) Don't know if it's cool to bring this back up but I'm thinking that I really want to do this when I put my truck back together in a week or two. I get the concept with blocking off the one T and the split but where I'm lost is the push rod... anybody have clever ideas on how to make a good pushrod? Would a pushrod like this work? Any thoughts on where to get the parts it does? Thanks! Barry Last edited by firefighter736; 04-22-2011 at 08:45 PM.

04-22-2011, 10:03 PM	#21
slepysal Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: San Jose NOR*CAL Posts: 3,080	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) You can use your old master cylinder's push rod. If it is addjustable then addjust it out,if it is not you can have some one cut it and weld it. Or you can get an addustable one from speedway or a used one from the wreckers. The push rod that is in the link will not work I used that type on my clutch master it had a pushrod with a threded end. __________________ 1960 Apache long bed fleet L6 250 Clifford intake 2 bbl carb. Langdon cast headers with dual exhaust and bellflower tips. T-5 5 speed, power steering and power disc brakes. "Over, Around or through it... "

04-22-2011, 11:30 PM	#22
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,147	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) It was very cool to bring this back up ... Man, haven't seen this thread in YEARS !! Whats up SAL !!!! __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

04-22-2011, 11:51 PM	#23
slepysal Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: San Jose NOR*CAL Posts: 3,080	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) John !!! Hows life in the country ? Hope all is well __________________ 1960 Apache long bed fleet L6 250 Clifford intake 2 bbl carb. Langdon cast headers with dual exhaust and bellflower tips. T-5 5 speed, power steering and power disc brakes. "Over, Around or through it... "

04-23-2011, 12:34 AM	#24
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,147	Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked) We are good .... Ive been going a serious of bad luck, but Im bouncing back slowly !! __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

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