HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)

[La Zona Imagery]

What size fittings are needed? I read this thread 3 times, but I must have missed it?

[padresag]

Originally Posted by La Zona Imagery

What size fittings are needed? I read this thread 3 times, but I must have missed it?

different fittings for different places. depends on what size line etc
ron

[jayoldschool]

I did this on Friday. Brought my master in to the parts place, sat on the floor for an hour digging through bins to get the fittings perfect without adapters.

[kippnidaho]

Just to clarify..
The front of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes and rear to rear brakes?

[notsolo]

Nope Other way....... The REAR PORT, closest to the PUSHROD is the main, or "primary" chamber.

This port is for the FRONT brakes....

The FRONT PORT, furthest from the PUSHROD is the secondary chamber....supplying the REAR brakes.
Attached Imageshttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=796539&stc=1&d=1315233781

[jayoldschool]

On later disc brake systems, that is correct. On our drum/drum setup, the front port is for the front wheels.

See post #106

[ChiefRocka]

3/16" and 1/4" inverted flare....unless your going with 37, then -3/-4

[jayoldschool]

Here we go. This should settle it once and for all. For DRUM/DRUM applications, using a dual master (like the 67 C10/Impala unit), the FRONT port goes to the FRONT brakes.

[La Zona Imagery]

I am confused about the push rod issue. I have a 65 C10 with the original MC.

Is there something I have to do with the push rod? I am confused.

[Mike Wessinger]

If you do not add a power booster you should not need to do anything with the push rod. I changed my single to a dual, no booster, and it bolted right up and used the original push rod.

[La Zona Imagery]

Originally Posted by Mike Wessinger

If you do not add a power booster you should not need to do anything with the push rod. I changed my single to a dual, no booster, and it bolted right up and used the original push rod.

Oh ok thanks, that's what I plan to do this weekend. Just wanted to make sure before I start therjob.

[jayoldschool]

I did not do anything with my push rod.

Drove my truck a lot yesterday, including urban rush hour, and the brakes are great. Don't hesitate, do this swap.

[La Zona Imagery]

Yea I am safer now! Thanks for the infos everybody!

[jayoldschool]

Looks like that front port line is smaller. Do you have that going to the rear wheels? If so, you need to swap it to the rear port.

[La Zona Imagery]

My front port goes to the front brakes.

[Brim]

What's going on everyone? Got a question, Im installing a dual m/c on my 64 c10 with booster and I have taken off my m/c a couple of times, each time I do the push rod and brake pedal moves in out freely. Once installed (the lines are not connected) the pedal does not move downward to bleed my brakes...? Even if the lines are connected I get the same results.
Im using a doorman part #M76162, with the original single jar push rod. The m/c has been bench bled. I noticed when installing it I have to push the m/c piston in against the rod in able for it to reach the bolts before I can screw the nuts on. I think my piston is bottoming out and acting like the brake pedal is engaged. This is why the brake pedal will not travel. Am I on the right track with this assumption and if so how can it be fixed?
Also I replaced all my lines with a kit from inline tube. Keeping the exact original setup. I then realized I cannot run both lines into the same tee. Looks like I will have to add an additional line just for the brake line that feeds the rear ones and cap off a tee somewhere. So that the lines can be connected properly (Rear bowl to Front Brake Line - Front bowl to Rear Brake Line). Any info or help on the push rod and lines would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brim