K10 with Independent Front Suspension

[no52]

I am new to the forum and have spent the last two weeks doing research both on and off the forum.
I would like to end up with a '67-'72 4X4 with Independent Front Suspension.
Is it possible to convert the leaf springs in a K10 to I.F.S.?
Or, should I buy a C10 and a later model K1500 S.W.B. and start by swapping out the frames?
I know there is a difference in the frames...C10 is 115" while the later model K1500 is 117.5" but, I would have both frames, on site, to see any differences!?
Of course, I think it would be a lot easier to convert the K10 to I.F.S., if it can be done!!!

By the way, you guys (and girls) are unbelievable.....you will all have forgotten more than I can ever learn about these great classic trucks!!!

[landy]

I'd guess it's possible with enough money and time, but why the conversion?

[CUSTOM/10]

Might be easier to take a late model chassis and put the old body on it.
Then you would have a better riding more fuel efficient old style truck.

[no52]

Custom/10...that is one of the two options that I proposed.
You "hit the nail on the head" as I want a comfortable driving truck with a '67-'72 body.
Has anyone done this and if so what model year of K1500 SWB should I try to get.
Also, I have looked thru the forum and couldn't find any a conversion of this type....any help???

[CUSTOM/10]

Keep searching this site, possibly in the 4x4 section, there's a guy with a build thread doing this.

[sdailey]

Welcome to the board. I'm going to move this to the 4x4 section for you.

[no52]

Shannon..."Thank you"...I thought about that after I posted it!

[special-K]

I believe you'll find that using the whole IFS chassis is the way to go.

[andrewmp6]

Only way i see it happening is putting a older body on a newer frame.But the question is do you go off road or will the truck be a mall crawler type?

[special-K]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Only way i see it happening is putting a older body on a newer frame.But the question is do you go off road or will the truck be a mall crawler type?

Those are the only two choices???

My '92 does better off road than most 4wds in what most people do with their trucks and it certainly is no mall cruiser.

[no52]

The truck is to be a very reliable daily driver, both in the city and on the highway.

[CUSTOM/10]

Here's a link to the one i was thinking of. A ton of work though !

Gary

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=498570

[special-K]

I think 88-99 trucks are really nice trucks with handsome classic clean looks in their own right. If I wanted what they had I'd just get one and be happy. Actually,I already do have one

[jamesjones]

Are planning on lifting it and running bigger tires? If so I wouldn't go through all of that. For about the same kind of money to do that you could do a setup like I have on my Blazer...

http://www.blitzkrieg-motorsports.co...olid-axle-kit/

It will pull 16" of travel and can be set up to ride like a Cadillac.

An even cheaper alternative would be doing Deaver springs all around with a nice double bypass shock.

Will it ride as nicely as an IFS truck? No, but it will be pretty close and if you plan on doing any kind of wheeling, especially with bigger tires, it will be significantly more durable.

[Zoomad75]

Originally Posted by no52

The truck is to be a very reliable daily driver, both in the city and on the highway.

I don't say this to be rude, but if that's the point what's the need for 4wd again? Swapping frames isn't an easy task with differences in body mounts, engine/trans positioning and adjusting wheelbase to match the body all require heavy fabrication. The thread linked above is taking it a step further by using even more of the donor vehicle than the frame and drivetrain. IF you have the skills then by all means go for the frame swap. If you are paying for the work to be done, expect to write a fat check.

There are alternatives. A nice stock 2wd with slightly oversized wheel/tire package would have the look of a 4wd. One could run taller coils up front and a small block out back to have a slightly higher attitude than a stock C10. Another would be just to get a k10 and get a low height lift kit (2") with soft spring rate up front and a shackle flip out back. ORD has 2" setups in that form. The ride quality isn't bone jarring stiff but not mushy soft where it would lean like crazy around corners. Cost would be a whole lot less than converting a 2wd to ifs 4wd.

[special-K]

It's funny,the more modern conveniences we get the softer we get. No one ever had a problem driving a 67-72 K10-20 every day anywhere they had to go with solid axle/leaf suspension,no O/D,no fuel injection,wind up windows,bias ply tires,etc. I still don't have any problem. I've driven a '69 3/4t 4wd with 14.50/37 bias ply mud tires,manual brakes and steering from Maryland to Arizona and back,took dirt back roads through the Ozarks,entered in a mud bog,4 wheeled Moab and allover Northern AZ...oh yeah,and on the way out went up through Toas,to Pagosa springs,Mesa Verde,4 corners,and down. I drove it down to Cape Hatteras,NC regularly,up to Maine,and down to Florida where I wheeled the Savannas along Indian River and drove to Key West. I actually enjoyed every inch I drove that truck. Never knew anything was wrong.
$9,000 for that set-up? Whoa! Better "need" that! I wouldn't say that's anywhere near the same money as doing a post-87 frame swap when you can buy a whole truck for 1/3 or less.

[jamesjones]

Originally Posted by special-K

It's funny,the more modern conveniences we get the softer we get. No one ever had a problem driving a 67-72 K10-20 every day anywhere they had to go with solid axle/leaf suspension,no O/D,no fuel injection,wind up windows,bias ply tires,etc. I still don't have any problem. I've driven a '69 3/4t 4wd with 14.50/37 bias ply mud tires,manual brakes and steering from Maryland to Arizona and back,took dirt back roads through the Ozarks,entered in a mud bog,4 wheeled Moab and allover Northern AZ...oh yeah,and on the way out went up through Toas,to Pagosa springs,Mesa Verde,4 corners,and down. I drove it down to Cape Hatteras,NC regularly,up to Maine,and down to Florida where I wheeled the Savannas along Indian River and drove to Key West. I actually enjoyed every inch I drove that truck. Never knew anything was wrong.
$9,000 for that set-up? Whoa! Better "need" that! I wouldn't say that's anywhere near the same money as doing a post-87 frame swap when you can buy a whole truck for 1/3 or less.

Call some shops and ask. You'd be surprised...

[special-K]

I do my own work

[jamesjones]

Originally Posted by special-K

I do my own work

It doesn't sound like the OP does though.

[ryanroo]

Ill toss in my .02

frame swaps are... they NEVER look right. even with really well planned and executed fabrication, it still looks wrong. and if it is going to be done, it had better be done with well planned and executed fabrication.

if i had to have it, i would build it. or pay someone who can.

now, if you want reliability and power etc, a powertrain swap will help you out there. there are a number of later model choices that range from a near bolt in to all the way crazy, depending on what you like.

as for ride, solid axle truck will always ride like solid axle trucks. but there are a number of things you can do to increase the comfort level. the best i can think of was already mentioned. that was custom made leaf springs. get with a reputable spring shop and discuss your wants and needs with them. if you really want to get a good ride, longer front springs will help. in the end, the thing is still going to ride like a truck. most of what gives later model trucks that smooth ride is spring rate. the IFS helps with handling and ride a little, but an unloaded truck will always be rough riding if the rear spring rate is too high. new trucks have really long and pretty soft rear springs and rely on the overloads for a lot of the capacity. at least the ones that ride somewhat decently.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by jamesjones

It doesn't sound like the OP does though.

Yeah,I thought about that today after I posted that. If it were me and I wanted out of a truck what this guy wants I'd just find a nice 88-98 1500. These are very nice trucks. It seems the whole world wants a 67-72 these days and they are overlooking the next hot item in classic trucks. Not that the 73-87s aren't also just too damn cool as well. The 88-98 trucks are like the 67-72s all over again. They did their homework before building them,they have clean no BS looks,and run so well and hold up so well they are hard to give up on...all just like the 67-72 (& 73-87). I ordered my '92 to be the 20 year later version of the '72 K/20 I had at that time. I've always had at least one K/20 for the last 35 years,but needed a new work truck when I started treating the 67-72s as something to preserve. Here we are 22 years/300k miles later and I haven't found a reason to cut this truck loose. It rides great,hauls anything that fits on or behind it,has required very few repairs,still looks great,gets right along down the hiway,and does great off road.
I'm also perfectly fine,as always,with how my 67-87 4wds drive. In fact,I love that ride and handling. I don't race off road,rock crawl,or drive to the country club. I just drive a truck wherever I need to go and play around when I feel like it

[no52]

Thanks guys...
I purchased a '71 C10 about a week ago and I should be able to get it in a couple of weeks.
It has a crate 350, a 4L60 tranny, and the gear ration, in the rear, is still an unknown.
It does not have air, and my first project is to install a Vintage Air system, which will be needed here in a few months.
I am just going to drive it for awhile, before I do a frame off restore,
and just enjoy the truck for a couple of months.
I am really learning a lot on this Forum, and all of you gentlemen have a "wealth of knowledge"!
I have been trying to get the tools that I don't have such as jack stands, floor jack (do you think a 3 Ton floor jack is sufficient), and also a welder.
I have narrowed the welder down to Lincoln and Hobart commercial models as opposed to the box store editions.
Really can't wait to get the C10.......

[Ozzy2013]

Miller makes good welders!A 3 ton floor jack will be plenty .Enjoy your truck !

[no52]

Thanks Ozzy....
I know Miller is probably the best, but it is also pricey. Do like the auto set on the Miller.
I have researched most brands and the final three were the Eastwood 135
(they will have a new model "spool ready" in a few weeks, on the 135), the Hobart 140 Handler, and the Lincoln 140C.
I have eliminated the Eastwood and the Hobart(not spool ready).
In addition, Lincoln is running a rebate program and the 140C is now $659.00.
I would really like the Lincoln 180 Dual or the Miller 211 but they are a little pricey.
I hope the Lincoln 140C will serve my needs and I won't "kick" myself later!!!

[Ozzy2013]

Originally Posted by no52

Thanks Ozzy....
I know Miller is probably the best, but it is also pricey. Do like the auto set on the Miller.
I have researched most brands and the final three were the Eastwood 135
(they will have a new model "spool ready" in a few weeks, on the 135), the Hobart 140 Handler, and the Lincoln 140C.
I have eliminated the Eastwood and the Hobart(not spool ready).
In addition, Lincoln is running a rebate program and the 140C is now $659.00.
I would really like the Lincoln 180 Dual or the Miller 211 but they are a little pricey.
I hope the Lincoln 140C will serve my needs and I won't "kick" myself later!!!

Yea i know what you mean on the prices i bought my miller matic 250 before i retired .I have a miller plasma cutter too .Took me 20+ years before i bought one but they are sweet.Hobart makes a fine welder too thats what i had before the miller.