'68 disc brake conversion...

[Jl8806]

I know this horse has been beat to death already but after reading for hours im still not 100% for sure on what i need... I had rather not swap the crossmember. Im planning on going thru the front end with new parts anyways, so can i use 71-72 spindles, ball joints & tie rods and leave everything else the same? I guess i'm going to go with aftermarket 6 lug rotors so i dont have 5 on the front and 6 on the back.

[hewittca]

I'm in the same boat with you, so I'm curious to see what others suggest. If you wanted to swap stuff over from a later model truck to piece together your own setup but keep your crossmember and arms, you will have to change the tierods and balljoints as well.

On the other hand, there are plenty of aftermarket options available to keep your '68 stuff. From what I've found, the ECE kit is the most complete. It has everything you need from a new master cylinder and proportioning valve down to all components at the wheel. Of course, it is the priciest of the basic disk conversion kits. Also, as far as I can tell you can only get it from ECE and they kill you on shipping.

The other popular aftermarket option is CPP, which is what I plan to do. The nice thing is you can get all their stuff through Summit for free shipping if you plan your purchases properly. The problem with their kit is it is an "at the wheel" kit, so there are several parts missing that you will need to complete it. Basically, it's missing the master cylinder, proportioning valve, and a few fittings to connect the brake lines. It also comes with flexible lines at the caliper that need to be adapted to your current hard lines. These are the things I figured I would need to complete the CPP conversion:

CPP "at the wheel" conversion kit
master cylinder
proportioning valve with bracket and lines to master
brake bleeding tool for prop valve
fitting to connect rear line to prop valve
correct brake hose from caliper to hard lines

The only thing I'm not sure of what I need is a possible adapter to go from the front hard line to the prop valve.

Keep in mind, I am still researching this like you and this is just what I've been able to gather that I need. I am fairly confident in this parts list and am ready to pull the trigger on it, but I share it here to also get some other opinions and possible corrections. I have not seen a comprehensive list of parts required for this swap so I figured we should start somewhere.

[lolife99]

There are many ways to get disc brakes,... but I suggest starting with 63-70 conversion spindles.
They come in stock height or dropped and are the same money as 71-72 or 73-87 spindles.
The advantage is no need to change your tie rods, steering centerlink, or balljoints.

[demian5]

Here you go. Simplest and best one you can do. Puts light 3/4 ton brakes up front.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=150

[Jl8806]

Originally Posted by demian5

Here you go. Simplest and best one you can do. Puts light 3/4 ton brakes up front.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=150

Anyone ever used that kit? is it new? If its really that easy looks like everyone would be using that kit but thats the first ive seen of it...

[ZEKE68]

You don't have to change out the cross member. I went with 73-87 control arms and spindles with disc brakes. everything bolted right in on my 68 except you have to get an adapting adjuster sleeve for the tie rod ends. 73 - 87 uses a larger size tie rod ends and the inner ones stay with the originals.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by Jl8806

Anyone ever used that kit? is it new? If its really that easy looks like everyone would be using that kit but thats the first ive seen of it...

Not used that kit, but... Yeah, it's that easy. The link there is for a set of $bracket$ to allow you to use parts from another application on your truck. You will still need to purchase the applicable rotors, calipers and pads to get it completely finished.

Now, when it's complete, you'll have '68 spindles/tie rod/ball joints ( all your current stock components), '95 rotors/calipers/pads and proprietary caliper brackets at stock ride height.

The other "easy" route is to purchase and aftermarket spindle that will accept your stock tie rod and ball joint ( 1968 stock parts ) and also use 72-78 rotor/caliper/pads.

The difference between the two will come down to the price of the "kit" above + the price of the '95 rotors/calipers versus the price of the aftermarket spindle + the price of the 72-87 rotors/calipers.

I'm unaware of any significant differences between the actual hardware here like for instance the diameter or thickness of the rotors. If the '95 rotors are beefier, I might be inclined to go that route.

Whatever you do, document it well for future owners who may be very keen to know.

-klb

[demian5]

Originally Posted by weq92f

The difference between the two will come down to the price of the "kit" above + the price of the '95 rotors/calipers versus the price of the aftermarket spindle + the price of the 72-87 rotors/calipers.

-klb

Ive used thier stuff on my Impala and it was perfect. This kit is fairly new.

The BIG difference is that you know what parts they are and can buy replacement parts at autozone instead of having to buy from the supplier of the kit. AND these install heavy half ton parts 5 lug OR 6 lug. You get more than adequate braking.

[Jl8806]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Not used that kit, but... Yeah, it's that easy. The link there is for a set of $bracket$ to allow you to use parts from another application on your truck. You will still need to purchase the applicable rotors, calipers and pads to get it completely finished.

Now, when it's complete, you'll have '68 spindles/tie rod/ball joints ( all your current stock components), '95 rotors/calipers/pads and proprietary caliper brackets at stock ride height.

The other "easy" route is to purchase and aftermarket spindle that will accept your stock tie rod and ball joint ( 1968 stock parts ) and also use 72-78 rotor/caliper/pads.

The difference between the two will come down to the price of the "kit" above + the price of the '95 rotors/calipers versus the price of the aftermarket spindle + the price of the 72-87 rotors/calipers.

I'm unaware of any significant differences between the actual hardware here like for instance the diameter or thickness of the rotors. If the '95 rotors are beefier, I might be inclined to go that route.

Whatever you do, document it well for future owners who may be very keen to know.

-klb

The more I look the more I think I'm going with this kit, I know that itsays you use 95-98 rotors and calipers but what about wheel bearings and hub ?

[alsriv2]

Getting ready to make the conversion on my '69 C-10 next weekend. I am using parts off a '79 C-10. Got all the moving parts so the entire front end (not including A arms and cross member) will be standard '79 parts.
I will post how the transformation goes, but I was lucky to get all the parts from a '79 cheaply.

I will be installing all new tie rod ends (inner and outer), ball joints and 6 lug rotors I purchased separately.

[Trackbar]

do some shopping on 73 to 87 parts, I was able to buy the front frame section with all the front end parts for just $100. Cleaned parts and replaced bushing and tie rod ends with MOOG parts or you could get the store brand. Left the 70 crossmember in place and now have a new front end.

[Jl8806]

Originally Posted by Trackbar

do some shopping on 73 to 87 parts, I was able to buy the front frame section with all the front end parts for just $100. Cleaned parts and replaced bushing and tie rod ends with MOOG parts or you could get the store brand. Left the 70 crossmember in place and now have a new front end.

What all did you have to change?

[Trackbar]

a-frames ( but could have just put on newer ball joints)
center link ( since it has larger holes for tie rods)
tie rods. Spindles, idler and Pitman arms and PS gear box.
and the sway bar too. My truck didnt have one or PS so I just updated the whole thing to make it al the same

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[alsriv2]

Just completed the brake conversion on my '69 this past weekend with great success. Took the entire steering setup out of a '79 suburban including idler arm and pitman arm. Also grabbed the '79 spindles and calipers for the brake conversion. Replaced the upper and lower ball joints in my '69 with new Moog parts for a '79. Replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends and adjusters as those parts were tired from the Suburban. Installed the 79 hubs, the rebuilt '79 linkages, installed new 6 lug rotors, used the calipers form the '79 as they were in good shape, replaced the brake lines converting the 3/16 lines to 1/4 inch and installed new flex lines using lines from a '72 to maintain the 11" length required for the '69 setup. Also installed a new brake booster and master cylinder from Summit. My front end is now tight, all brand new braking system, and the truck stops on a dime. Huge improvement from drum brakes.