Newer truck seats

[no moa]

I tired the search, and it's not working. Has anyone mounted newer truck seats (the ones with the seatbelts intagrated into them) from like a 2005 and up gmc or chevy?
Just wondering about the fit.
Thanks
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[steelhorse]

One member mounted a set from a 2004 Dodge crew cab.I dont think they had the seat belts made in them but with the headrest removed they looked like buddy buckets.

[71meangreenc10]

Ive done it two times now.

Smitty

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=449679

and here

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=386180

[HARJO]

I did exactly that. Here's a breakdown of how I did it:

Tools and hardware needed:
-Patience
-Seats from early to mid 2000's Chevy
-Strong tape
-Sharpie mini
-Screw drivers
-Drill
-Small pilot hole bit
-3/8 drill bit
-Hammer
-Marking punch
-Allen sockets
-sockets & wrenches
-an extra set of hands or a pair of vise grips
-8 each:

*3/8 x 1 1/4, grade 5 or grade 8 bolts (I used 6 hex cap and 2 socket head cap screw "allen head") Afterthought, one could use 6 flanged head bolts also.

*3/8 washers (you will need to slightly grind the edge of a couple of these to fit in the indexed mounting holes in the seat rails)

*3/8 nylock nuts

*3" pieces of 1/4 x 1.5 strap [one could also use thick fender washers or similar sized pieces of angle iron I suppose]


Of course the bolt holes don't line up, so you'll have to mock them up first to know where to drill. Also I used some 3" pieces of strap on the bottom side of the cab, because the holes don't line up with the areas that are strengthened for the original seat. I will weld these on later when I do body work, but for now they are just clamped by the mounting hardware.

The center section has four legs and isn't adjustable. I found that if I set it in first, make sure the seat back/console/arm rest was able to flip back to the cab wall and just rest there. Then measure, square it up, mark it's location and tape the feet down in place with strong tape.

Then put each side in, one at a time. While the outer seats are out of the truck, it's easier to pull pull off all the unnecessary stuff for seatbelt warning lights and such. Also for now, take off the plastic outer pieces by removing the seat back adjustment handle and popping the clips carefully. Also while they are out, line the seat tracks up so that each track is 3 clicks from the seat being all the way forward. That seemed to give me the best clearance to the back of the cab, and allow for a couple clicks of adjustment fore and aft. Make sure they are fully engaged and/or put a piece of tape to keep them at this setting (for now)

Notice in the picture that the outer front track "foot" is fairly square on the little hump on the floor pan. For reference, each front outer foot on the track will be fairly square and right to the edge on the side. The in-board feet of the outer seats will sit directly on top of the center seat feet. There are two sets of corresponding mounting holes on these. You'll see that one set of holes has a reinforced boss, I'd suggest using these holes.

Then, with everything located where you like them, and nothing has moved (strong tape is your friend, again), carefully use a sharpie mini to mark the mounting holes and the outer edges of the feet.

Next, take the seats out and break out a punch and hammer, a drill, a pilot hole bit and a 3/8's bit. Drill you marked holes.

When placing the seats back in, and dropping in the bolts, the center seat legs are somewhat flexible if you need to tweak them to make your bolt holes line up.

I used the 2 socket head cap screws for the front outer holes, as clearance for a regular socket was sort of tight.

You'll find that the 3/8 washers wont fit down some of the holes through the stationary portion of the seat rails, so you'll have to grind just a hair off the edges and they'll drop right in. This would be a good place to use flanged head bolts instead.

The pieces of strap I used as reinforcement on the bottom side were just cut to length, marked and drilled in the center with a 3/8's bit.

If you don't have an extra set of hands, use vise grips on whichever side of the bolt/nut you'd like to hold it in place.

Button it all up, remove the pieces of tape left over, install the plastics and you should be good to go!

Hope that helps!

[no moa]

Those look great both of you guys, thank you. That will get me started once i find the seats i want.

[71meangreenc10]

The dodge seats I put in my truck went in perfect without drilling the cab, I used four pieces of angle and the original bolt holes and it went in smooth. Dodge did change from the integral belts to 3 points so you have to find the right year if you go that way.


Smitty

[no moa]

Originally Posted by 71meangreenc10

The dodge seats I put in my truck went in perfect without drilling the cab, I used four pieces of angle and the original bolt holes and it went in smooth. Dodge did change from the integral belts to 3 points so you have to find the right year if you go that way.


Smitty

What years? I dont know much about dodge stuff.
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[HARJO]

Originally Posted by no moa

Those look great both of you guys, thank you. That will get me started once i find the seats i want.

No problem! I'd love to see pictures when you get started!

[StingRay]

And an itegrated belt seat is for a vehicle that has mounting points designed to handle the greatly added loads in an accident. A bench seat truck isn't even good enough to add factory buckets to without reinforcing the floor. If you use an integrated belt seat apply much thought to the end result and be prepared to fabricate. How much is your life worth. Can't you just see yourself flying through your windshield like you are in an ejector seat safely buckled into it.

[no moa]

Originally Posted by StingRay

And an itegrated belt seat is for a vehicle that has mounting points designed to handle the greatly added loads in an accident. A bench seat truck isn't even good enough to add factory buckets to without reinforcing the floor. If you use an integrated belt seat apply much thought to the end result and be prepared to fabricate. How much is your life worth. Can't you just see yourself flying through your windshield like you are in an ejector seat safely buckled into it.

Thought of that also, the lap belt and the lock will be attached at the strong points in the floor like the factory bench or buckets would be, the shoulder belt would just be an add on for help. Pretty good chance no matter what you hit with these trucks with enough force to toss you through the windshield, your a goner no matter what.

I am also considering some comfy racing seats and 4 point harness. The seats i have and they aren't bad at all, and would fit nice in the truck.

I really want a shoulder belt of some kind, i'm not going to be racing or running like a moron, i just like it holding me in place. And i plan to have the floor and the belts, 4 point or lap, whatever i go with will be reinforced to the max.

[bikerbuck]

I am using a split 60/40 power bench seat out of a 01 ford lariat. Nice and comfy.

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by StingRay

And an itegrated belt seat is for a vehicle that has mounting points designed to handle the greatly added loads in an accident. A bench seat truck isn't even good enough to add factory buckets to without reinforcing the floor. If you use an integrated belt seat apply much thought to the end result and be prepared to fabricate. How much is your life worth. Can't you just see yourself flying through your windshield like you are in an ejector seat safely buckled into it.

I agree and disagree,,,first, my floors are solid and I did get longer grade 8 bolts to go through the whole mounting hole. Ill take my chances with this seat rather than use the death lap belt. If I have to worry about going through the windshield, than its not going to matter what seat is in the truck, I am done anyway.

Seat came out of a 99 ram for my truck.

Smitty

[StingRay]

Originally Posted by no moa

Thought of that also, the lap belt and the lock will be attached at the strong points in the floor like the factory bench or buckets would be, the shoulder belt would just be an add on for help. Pretty good chance no matter what you hit with these trucks with enough force to toss you through the windshield, your a goner no matter what.

I am also considering some comfy racing seats and 4 point harness. The seats i have and they aren't bad at all, and would fit nice in the truck.

I really want a shoulder belt of some kind, i'm not going to be racing or running like a moron, i just like it holding me in place. And i plan to have the floor and the belts, 4 point or lap, whatever i go with will be reinforced to the max.

So the point of rotation is about the rear mounting bolts in a frontal accident. Your shoulder belt is attached to the seat and is now a 3 ft long lever at the shoulder belt upper point. The lap belt is into the floor. The factory bench floor is not even strong enough to support factory buckets. A factory bucket truck has a specially reinforced floor even back then even with no integral belts. You get in a frontal accident. The seat rotates downward trying to submarine through the front floor and you are belted to the truck as the seat is trying to rotate down as the lap holds you in place. It sounds pretty scarey to me.

This kind of modification is not just about better bolts or some washers. You are mixing technologies that were never meant to work together. That kind of seat is destructively tested in a vehicle to determine that it ALL works the way it is supposed to. How do I know this stuff. I design seat and seat belt mounting as a part of my job. You should see what kind of damage and how torn up a vehicle can get when you try yanking an integrated belt seat out of one. I could make this kind of arrangement work and I aboslutely will NOT be doing this in my own truck. What does that say? I'll be using the factory lap and shoulder mounts designed and proven for their purpose with modern approved 3 point belts.

If your vehicle is ever inspected by somebody that knows their stuff it will be deemed non compliant. I wouldn't pass it.

[no moa]

So what do you do if you dont have the shoulder belt option? you just suck it up and use the lap belt and hope for the best? Not so much here.

i have been a Firefighter for 20 years, and have done several hundred extrications. I have seen sh!t you wouldn't believe seatbelts do. But thats irrelivant.

I have several fab guys who build race cars, if they can't make a 4 point harness work in one of these trucks, i don't know who can.

Would you also not recommend installing 4 point harness? Of coarse any mod would require alot of fabrication.

I am very interested in your point of view, and i agree with you for the most part, but i'm not running around without a shoulder belt, and my truck doesn't have the shoulder belt option. What would you do? Buy another truck? Another cab?

Who do you work for? GM?

[StingRay]

Use the upper factory existing shoulder harness threaded insert in the B pillar. 7/16 NF Just like NHSTA/FMVSS says its supposed to be. These trucks were available with 3 point belts and are easily retrofitted. I never said anything about 4 point we are talking about integrated belt seats from newer trucks. They are designed to mount to floors intended to take the loads. In a race car the upper belt points are on the cage or belts at least pass over the cage. They are NOT soley attached to a seat. They can be mounted and work fine. By the things I read here it's obvious that it should not be done by many or most I see posting. From a safety perspective you are better off using the factory points providing the points are all sound.

[no moa]

Originally Posted by StingRay

Use the upper factory existing shoulder harness threaded insert in the B pillar. 7/16 NF Just like NHSTA/FMVSS says its supposed to be. These trucks were available with 3 point belts and are easily retrofitted. I never said anything about 4 point we are talking about integrated belt seats from newer trucks. They are designed to mount to floors intended to take the loads. In a race car the upper belt points are on the cage or belts at least pass over the cage. They are NOT soley attached to a seat. They can be mounted and work fine. By the things I read here it's obvious that it should not be done by many or most I see posting. From a safety perspective you are better off using the factory points providing the points are all sound.

Thank you for your imput. I didn't see the upper holes in my cab, i'll check them out later.

[hounddogs!]

Originally Posted by no moa

Thank you for your imput. I didn't see the upper holes in my cab, i'll check them out later.

You have a barbed plug with about a 5/8" head covering the threaded insert.