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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Leesburg VA
Posts: 85
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Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
I'm done with electric solenoids and pressure sensors.
I went to drive the truck this morning.. valves were frozen, pressure sensors failing etc.. Not the first time either. I've had a list of issues. While the novelty of a truck that raised itself to ride height was fun for a while, I value reliability more. I just ordered little larry's fourplay:http://www.littlelarrys.net/ -- It comes with 4 1/8" NPT ports for gauge connections. I'm looking for some bulletproof dual needle gauges. Any suggestions? ![]() thanks!
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-- 1968 fleetside - nolimit wide ride front and rear + ridetech |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tiffin Oh
Posts: 299
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
Nothing is bullet proof if its full of water and freezing. Firestone has gauges.
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#3 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
I hope your experience with the Little Larrys Four Play is better than mine.
I've had problems since minute one with the valves leaking. I'm about to take it back out and blow it completely apart for a full rebuild with new o rings and a thorough cleaning. They either built it with crappy o rings or there was machining rubbish left internally when they assembled it. Either way, it hasn't worked right yet, and I haven't even gotten past the build stage in the shop and even driven the truck on the road yet.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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#4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Leesburg VA
Posts: 85
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
Quote:
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-- 1968 fleetside - nolimit wide ride front and rear + ridetech |
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#5 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
When I first unboxed my unit, two of the switches felt a bit crunchy when moved.
When I first installed it, on a couple of the switches, when you hit "up" and then released the switch, it would continue to go up slowly until you horsed it around up and down back and forth. Then it would hold steady pressure. Kind of disconcerting to raise your truck to a set pressure and take your hand away and then just watch it continue to climb and climb without you doing anything. Now, my front right valve is leaking down. Bad. Like full raise (80 psi or so) to zero in about 30 minutes. All of this on a truck that hasn't ever even been driven yet. I spoke with LL guy on Facebook and ran air tool oil through my system to lubricate the orings. No help from that. I don't have the time or inclination to fool around with it. I'm just gonna jerk it back out, blow it apart, and get good proper o rings to replace whatever is in it right now. I'll clean it surgically clean, inspect all machining carefully, and reassemble with good quality, well lubricated o rings. Unless there is a significant error in their machine work, I feel fairly confident I can get it fixed quicker than trying to hassle with sending it back for warranty.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Louisville,Ky
Posts: 5,811
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
Any valve can freeze if you don't keep water out of the system and run airline anti freeze in the winter months.
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,885
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
Look into Dloe's manual valves. Haven't heard any bad feedback on them, only good reviews.
http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/ind...20130106230440
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Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread '78 Camaro Targa Roof Build '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners, Etc |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Leesburg VA
Posts: 85
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
We agree on that. When ridetech sells a complete kit. It should be a complete kit.
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-- 1968 fleetside - nolimit wide ride front and rear + ridetech |
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#9 |
67-72 parts collector,…
![]() Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mid-MO
Posts: 22,698
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
How would air line antifreeze stay where you want it?
Never heard of using it in an air suspension system. Wouldn't you blow it out when you dumped the bags? Just trying to understand. The key is to have dry air. Whether that means routinely draining your air tank or running some type of air dryer. Either way,... I don't think the air management manufacturer can be held liable for how much water your air compressors generate, how much YOU run the compressors, or how much moisture is in your system. (condensation)
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 Last edited by lolife99; 12-24-2014 at 11:15 PM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lordstown, OH / Wentzville, MO
Posts: 870
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
I have same questions Keith has.
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Springtucky, Oregon
Posts: 265
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
I have the Dloe manual valves and im very happy with them. I've had them for a few years with no issues.
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Springtucky, Oregon
Posts: 265
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
I've been thinking about how to dry the air from the on-board tanks. What i'm going to try is an air conditioner filter dryer. They are really good at removing moisture and particles from gas and liquid. A decent sized filter dryer should work fine for a long time. Unless you are playing with the valves a lot in a moist climate. You could then take it off, bake it in an oven to remove the water then re-install.
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Louisville,Ky
Posts: 5,811
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
Chevydominate they do make water traps for air ride http://www.avsontheweb.com/water-traps/ Most run the line between the compressor to tank with a check valve then water trap.I have seen some run a water trap before the tank and between the tank and valves.I would run just the one between the compressor and tank and the winter months a few oz of airline anti freeze that the semis run it works.
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,967
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
I don't get how a trap between the comp & tank can be effective. The air doesn't have moisture to be removed until it cools & condenses. It's in the tank by then.
Seems 'traps/filters' should be after the tank & before the valves. An automated tank purge like DOT regulated stuff would help alot.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Portland, Maine
Posts: 219
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Re: Ripping out my ridetech ridepro system - going manual via little larrys
The height of the components matters and is a key element of collecting condensation in all compressed air systems on-road or not.
I have my tank as the lowest point in the system with the pumps slightly higher and a water trap between the tank and valves with it's lowest point at the top of the tank. The valves are the highest point in the system and inside the cab. I have yet to get any moisture out of the water trap in about 200 pump cycles and no freezing.
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Daily Driver '66 C10 Fleetside Short Bed - LS swap - 4L80E - Accuair eLevel |
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