Questions for those with ECE 4/6 drop

[Cole Trickle]

Getting all my ducks in a row as I might finally install my 4.5/6 ECE drop on the 1969 over Labor Day weekend.

4.5/6
6 Lug front disc
New MC/Booster

What issues or problems did you have pop up that I should be aware of.

What specialty tools should I make sure I have on hand.

What wasn't usable when you took everything apart that I should considering having JIC. (Ball joints,etc..)

What fabrication was needed?

Will my factory 2 peice drive shaft work?

I don't like surprises. I am handy and have a decent arsenal of tools but I will need this thing to be moving within 2-3 days so I can get the other car in the garage. I haven't picked wheels/Tires yet so I'm hoping I can slowly drive it with the current rolling stock. (15x8 275 tires)

Thanks

Brandin

PS I have read Nates install a bunch of times and will have access to a lap top if needed...lol

[big_al_71]

I would have ready to go inner and out tie rods (in case they are worn) new upper and lower ball joints just in case also. be super careful removing those factory springs. spray paint to touch up anything that looks corroded or discolored. Brake line bending tool just in case you need to bend it. Floor jacks (2) and jack stands.

Very simple!!!

[Jack_71C10]

1) My U bolts didn't want to come out, the nuts came of ok just took alot of work to get them out of the control arms. The old shock mount came out ok I just drilled them out with a 1/4" bit then a 3/8" bit.

2) U bolts require 215 ft/lbs of torque, didn't have a wrench that big so I just used a cheater bar and cranked the hell out of them. You will also need a press to replace ball joints if you are replacing them.

3) I had to order all new rear spring mounts, mine were rusted away and unusable, this held up the whole install for 2 weeks. Also the alignment shop wouldn't do my alignment unless I replaced 1 ball joint and 1 tierod. So I am now waiting on a front end rebuild kit from cpp. They didn't seam that bad when I installed the drop, but there goes another $300.

4) I have a shortbed with a one pice driveshaft so someone else will have to answer that.

5) Im running 15x8 rallys with no rubbing.

Goodluck, I was a good bit of work but difficulty level is pretty low. So you should be able to get it done no problem.

post pics when done.

[2500HD]

Get a friend to help. I just completed this by myself and it takes alot of time alone.

The spindles, rotors, calipers, master cylinder and proportioning valve come bare so be ready to paint. they will rust in a short time if you do not.

Replace the ball joints without question. Is does not make sense to tear it down that far and not replace them.

Rivets suck. two in each upper shock mount and four in each upper ball joint assuming they have never been changed before. Rent a ball joint press for the lowers.

Parts store list: brake cleaner (the bare parts will have a coating on them), brake fluid, paint, ball joints, grease for the new wheel bearings, grease for you grease gun (ball joints) and rent a ball joint press.

Did i tell you rivets suck.

[tubbedII]

I'll say it again, replace the ball joints...it's the better thing to do.

One thing my brother ran into was the wheels were pushed out too far and the fender came down onto the tire requiring a set of new wheels for the front...It had drop springs on it already, so this was just a spindle/disc brake change. I don't know if a 4" in the front will get you low enough for this to be an issue, but something to look at.

[Cole Trickle]

Truck is pretty solid and has alot of new front suspension parts....

I think new ball joints are a good idea.....Any known place have better prices than others?

Keep the info coming.....The only think I don't have is a press

[jondancer]

best place/price for ball joints?

[Swiftshifter68]

Sounds funny but, I found the correct part numbers for everything and then started searchin' on Ebay. I got Moog and TRW pieces for cheap, my outer tie rods were $4.95 and $0.99, shipping was less than the cost of the parts too. New-In-Box, a little dusty but perfect. It beat the hell outta' payin' $500+ for the complete "Frontend kit" from popular suppliers. Now, if I'd just remembered to get the inners 6 years ago...........


---==Temio Williams
Yuba City, CA