Sad day...

[Broken_down?]

Well I just happend to look outside today from the kitchen window and my heart sank and I got that upset feeling in my gut. The gutter looks to be rusting Is there anyway to fix this without haveing the gutters removed and rewelded back on? Is there anyway to stop this? I know for gas tanks you can put i think some pour 15 and it will remove rust and reseal. I realize the proper way to fix it to remove and fix, but I don't have the means to weld nor do I know how. Any temp fixes till I get the experience to do so or can afford to pay someone to do it??

[67ChevyRedneck]

The caulking is old and cracked, and water has gotten underneath it. It doesn't look bad at all. A screwdriver to scrape it out, a wire wheel on a drill and/or sandpaper should clean it up, you can por 15 it and put new caulking/sealant in (others can chime in on what's best to use, I can't recall the name of the stuff... 3M something...?)

[dazza]

I agree with Redneck, from the pics it doesn't look too deep or rusted through. Don't think you'll need to have any welding done.

Napa carries a seam sealer that I used on mine, worked great.

[GASoline71]

You should see mine. Yours looks dang near new compared to my '72. Most of the caulk/body sealer crud on mine is gone and the the cab seal is exposed. I need to chip/grind the rest out and reseal and then paint.

You just need to chip/grind the caulk/body sealer out of there and redo it. My local Napa auto parts has the correct body sealer. Not an easy or fun job... but it is doable.

Gary

[clos69]

Originally Posted by dazza

Napa carries a seam sealer that I used on mine, worked great.

Dazza- is there a specific name brand. I am interested,thx

[my67chevytruck]

I agree with what others have said. you can go to Napa ( they carry 3m products), or a local paint supply store. you will want self-leveling seam sealer for the top ( this will lay flat when cured), and heavy-bodied seam sealer (for vertical areas) as you start getting closer to the back (curved area above door) and down the remaining drip rail.

You could always drive by a body shop and ask if you removed the old sealer, and wire wheeled it , what would they charge to apply the seam-sealer

[mrein3]

Jump in your truck and pull back the inner rubber windshield seal. If you don't see any rust or bubbles under the paint, you're good.
Simply do as others said. Remove, wire wheel, treat.
For areas that are surface rusted I like the acid etch available from DuPont and PPG instead of POR-15. The paint companies make an acid that is made to go under their primer and paint products. I've used it and have never yet had surface rust come back when properly treated.

[MAK191]

I think this is the correct one. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-a...7-p-10855.aspx but there are several brands available and some are high build.

[MAK191]

forgot to ad if you use the specialty ones like 3m and SEM you need a special applicator gun

[GASoline71]

I just got the Napa brand in a tube that works in a regular caulk gun. I also used some seam sealer in the areas around the bottom corners of the windshield where the cab comes together there as well. Another good spot to chip all the crud out and reseal. I think that is where a lot of water gets in over the years and rots out the kick panels, and floor.

Great trucks... but if you ask me, a poor design where the cab seams are. Then again, most trucks of that era (no matter the make or model) are put together that way.

Gary

[PanelDeland]

I did just like they suggested then primed and rattle canned over it (since I can't do paint yet).Clean,then use a rust converter, then primer, then the sealer, and then prime again(It seems to let the paint stick to the sealer better) then rattle can it to seal the primer(primer will absorb water).

And I got lots more drip rail then you.It took two tubes to do the sides and I need to do above the rear doors if it ever warms up.

[GASoline71]

Here's some pix of mine... See... yours really isn't all that bad considering the age of these trucks.

Gary

[pat 70/71]

I re did mine. i ground & cleaned all the original caulking out of the drip rails & used mar- glass to fill in the seam & shaped it with my finger. works great its been six years / no problems so far. ( not a pro) prep/spray as usual. best of luck, Pat

[Broken_down?]

Awesome news. We are moving into our new house in less than 30 days so will chip it off asap and real seal. Sad though I need the kick panels too. All in do time I am pickip my battles right now..lol

Thanks guys you all rock!!

[Jacfourteen]

Hey brokendown, I'm in oroville too. Guess I'll know who to pm when I need help! Cool to see someone else in the area, I've seen lots from sac and one from magalia, but none from O-town.

[oldblue1968chevy]

dude mines worse than all of you folks'!!!!

yeah yours looks great id try what these truck educated folks gotta say

[Broken_down?]

Originally Posted by Jacfourteen

Hey brokendown, I'm in oroville too. Guess I'll know who to pm when I need help! Cool to see someone else in the area, I've seen lots from sac and one from magalia, but none from O-town.

LOL! There is never anyone one from our arear. I live in thermalito currently but will be moving right up next to kelly ridge in 24 days! Where you at in oroville? Any close pics of your rig? mine is currently on non-op due to needing a motor. Still looking to score a 327 runner in 67/72 era. Manyy 350's but wanna keep her stock. You gonna go to the feather fiesta days this year? Ever year they have this bad ass strecthed c20 that is orange.

later