Suburban Electric/Start Problems

[bretcopsey]

I have a 1999 2500 4x4 that has had some problems lately. I'll start from the beginning to hopefully help narrow this down. Many months ago I heard a "clicking" under the dash that coincided with the interior light coming on and off. I culdn't immediately figure it out and simply pulled the light fuse. The lights quit coming on but occassionally it would sound like a midget was tapping out morse code under the dash!

A few weeks goes by then I start having starting issues. I ended up replacing the starter solenoid and at the same time I removed a remote start system that had been installed by a PO. I didn't have any of the necessary remotes, documentation etc to use it anyway and figured it could be contributing to the problem. I had hoped that this was the source of the "clicking."

The truck started fine again, and I also had interior lights functioning as they should. But soon after the keyless entry remote no longer worked, and the interior lights didn't function properly-this time not coming on with the door being opened??

Then, I noticed what sounded like an A/C compressor bearing going bad upon initial startup, but not every time. I finally realized that the noise was coming from the starter not disengaging.

Today I replaced the starter. I had a somewhat drained battery so I had it charged-it's only a few months old.

I went to hook everything back up, and decided to try a trick that was mentioned in another post on this board. I connected the positve cable, and connected a test light to the negative cable and negative battery post. The light came on and based upon the other post this is indicative of an open circuit.

I pulled every fuse in the dash, one at a time, and the test light remained on. I then did the same on the under hood fuse panel. Pulling the horn fuse made the test light dim, but it never went completely out. Then all of a sudden I heard that "clicking" again under the dash. I didn't find a midget so I started poking around I found what I am guessing to be the body control computer making the noise. I placed a couple fingers on the side of the "box" and could feel that it was the culprit.

Is this "box" controlled by a relay somewhere, or could the "box" itself be bad???

I'd really appreciate some advice on this!!!

[72Blazer San Jose CA]

The proper way to check battery drain is called parasitic draw. Get volt meter
with 10 amp selection put the the meter leads on meter for amp test.Now hook up meter as you did the test light tom the neg post and other to neg battery cable. Make sure key is out and doors closed. The meter should read
around 1 or 2 amps then drop in steps after a few minutes.Should drop to
.020 mA or less meaning 20/1000 of a amp