Newtype 72 c/10 power/drivetrain HELP

[NewType72]

Well I'm roundin up ideas for my 72 C/10 swb pickup since its current setup is decent I want it to have a little more power and durability all around so that I feel safer on longer trips she's been mostly around town and within 100 miles or so of home.

I'd like to take trips from the Central Valley to let's say Southern California if I wanted to no problems just fire her up an go.
I don't have the major bucks to do an LS1-3 swap not do I have the desire for the LS look as I'm more of a fan of the carb motors (keep classic classic you know)

This truck IS my daily present/future driver so I can't put it down for long at this point and I plan to use it everyday after as I am doing now so it'll need to be very dependable.

I don't need a ton of horsepower but I don't feel like being embarrassed by the local prius's either so I'm wanting a decent SBC 350 with around 300 horsepower.

Of course I can fiddle with that since I want to be somewhere in the ball park of 16-20 mpg that I'm hoping the gearing and 700r4 trans would give me I already jumped 2-4 mpg swapping from 4:11 gears to 3:73's in two different 12 bolt rear ends.

so here's what I have

Current setup:
Motor: 350 SBC with serpentine.
less than 200 HP estimated.
Keyway was layed over on crank has now been jb welded for a full year no problems fortunately.
Very mild cam may be ruined from from rocker arms being too tight on first adjustment (had a bad motor builder).
Edelbrock performer intake with carb (happy with this could upgrade).
Late model serpentine belt setup (very happy with this as well.

Transmission: Th350 automatic Very solid rebuilt three years ago no issues.
Shift kit.

Differential: 12 bolt 3:73 gearing dog legger rear end.
very solid but have my original to rebuild into something newer.
1-piece driveline.

Brakes/suspension: Disc brakes up front with mcgaughys 2.5" drop spindles and stock worn out springs (bouncy).
Drum brakes out back solid but wanting disc (have line on wildwood rotors and calipers).
E-brake cable broke midway never been fixed since I got it as I don't have a use for one other than to keep the truck closer to stock.

Now here's my ideal setup and somewhat of what I think may work from my basic knowledge here in the board.

Dream setup:

Motor: 350 sbc 300 HP on carb style motor edelbrock goodies with serpentine belt setup on front.
New headers (chevelle shorties? Open to better ideas still want them to tuck up a bit).

Transmission: 700r4 overdrive tranny rebuilt innards from a stock case with some tricks to strengthen it (heard they're a bit brittle when HP is added).

Differential: 12 bolt 3:73 Richmond gears with eaton posi.
Shortened 1-piece driveline.

Brakes: Rear brakes upgraded to wilwood calipers and rotors (what do I need for swap or can I just buy a kit?)
Replace front calipers and rotors for wilwood as well.
Wilwood master cylinder and dump brake booster.

Suspension: Bag the truck manually for now until I can afford full switch/tank/compressor air ride for that cushy drive feel

ANY kin of advice or guidance for all that was mentioned would be greatly appreciated I'm looking to do a lot of this at the end of the next two months or so and I want to round up all of what I need so that I can get a head start and not be too rushed on this.

Thank you for reading and any responses in advance -Dylan
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[NewType72]

Any opinions?

[NewType72]

ttt

[cubber]

I think it might be hard to get that kind of mileage (16-20) with a carbed v8. You could get one of those GM Performance crate motors, the 260 hp one is like $1500, and 290hp is like $2000. Both of those would use your intake, carb, and accessories you already have. I would also consider gping to a 3.08 gear (was standard on most v8 auto trans trucks). I have a 3.08 behind my th350 and 383 and its got all the low end I need. Also, if you switch to a 700R4 trans, the first is a little lower than a th350. We put the 260 hp crate in a buddy of mines 72 and it had lots of pep with an Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. I think that bolted to a 700r4 to a 3.08 rear with a locker would be ideal. You would be getting the top end of possible mpg's, and still have something that was fun at red lights!

[GASoline71]

Getting 1hp per cubic inch out of a 350 is EZPZ with the stock bottom end, and flat top pistons. That's doing the rebuild yourself too.

Or one of he crate 260hp or 290hp engines would be a good way to go as well. Plus they have a warranty. 12mpg is pretty realistic with a 350 in a truck with no aerodynamics.

Gary

[NewType72]

Great info on that but it seems like 3.08's are a huge jump from my supposedly 3:73's and when you ad in another gear with the 700r4 would that go even further into more of a tall gear? Or am I backwards on that?

Also I have a motor that shouldn't be too used up that I could save a bit on opposed to buying a whole long block to start with. Do those crate motors automatically get better mileage just from not being used before?
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[NewType72]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Getting 1hp per cubic inch out of a 350 is EZPZ with the stock bottom end, and flat top pistons. That's doing the rebuild yourself too.

Or one of he crate 260hp or 290hp engines would be a good way to go as well. Plus they have a warranty. 12mpg is pretty realistic with a 350 in a truck with no aerodynamics.

Gary

Seems like I get that kind of mileage now with no HP and no overdrive. I'm sure I won't end up 350/350 on the motor so with a taller gearing and that overdrive mileage should increase no?
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[cubber]

The 3.08 is what came factory in a ton of the 90s model trucks with the overdrive trans. I think it will just be tough to get anywhere near 20 mpg with a carbed setup, just because it doesn't vary the fuel feed as much as an electronically controlled setup will do. If you run the 3.08 with a 700R4, you will see better mileage, especially at highway speeds, but you will still be able to roast the tires.

[NewType72]

Hmm I think I need to do that little rotation trick on the rear end I have currently to see what gearing I really have, never had the inspection cover off before on this one. I dont care for roasting the tires as I've realized there's no weight in the rear on these trucks which breaks any chance of winning a dead stop drag anyway. but I'm definitely more for the driving portion since I definitely enjoy that more than racing around course I wont mind having the option.

[cubber]

That's a good idea. Do you know what eng/trans the truck had from the factory?

[NewType72]

no I just removed the rear end it originally had If I were to guess it would have benn 4:11's? it screamed on the freeway at 65 where as the new 12 bolt runs solidly with traffic 65-70 no problem

[cubber]

I've heard that most of the trucks with 3 on the column came with 3.73, 4 spds came with 4.11, and auto came with 3.08. But with custom orders and shade tree mechanics, I guess anything is possble by now, lol.

[NewType72]

How would I be able to know the factory gearing for my truck as far as I know I can only get motor designation off the VIN correct? course my truck has probably been through quite a few different owners at this point in its life.

[NewType72]

Well I've been searching alot today and here is what I have in the area of crate motors, I'm leaning towards just biting the bullet and getting one I'll drive this truck for a long time why put anything thats even semi-tired into it any opinions on these motors here?

I'm liking this right here optimum HP but I'm just curious if it really hold up better than the true blue GM goodwrench engines

http://www.westcoastengines.com/prod...-1-300-hp.html

here's one from GM performance pricier but brand new

http://store.chevroletperformance.co...-12499529--%3E

Another from Crate Engine Depot which will put me into the beginnings of the vortec's

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/57-L...P9443C718.aspx

and of course ones from Summit.

I think I'm getting too many choices now

[cubber]

I like the prices on the first one

[NewType72]

As do I and it is close..

[NewType72]

Leaning towards the GM Crate just to feel all warm and gushy about the newness also hearing that they recommend the 4L60e's trans instead of the 700r4 any BIG difference other than them being mechanical vs. electronic? do the 4L's hold together better than the 700's? Any personal experience here for comparing?

[NewType72]

Alright so I'm definitely going crate motor from GM long block 350/290hp I feel this motor will suit my needs most and leave me the happiest out of all options so with that finalized I will be mating a 700r4 transmission behind it from either bowtie overdrives or a local trans shop that has done our previous transmissions. Going to use their tv made easy kit as Shawno72 suggested and I'm lookin into running a tubular crossmember that way I can run my exhaust higher when I get to that point. Now speaking of exhaust I want to dump my junky Hooker long tube Headers and run something more mid range like chevelle since I hear that they are popular to use because of fitment an performance now what exactly would I be looking for??
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[NewType72]

Hmm these would be REALLY nice Thorleys

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dt...model/chevelle



Or Hedman's

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/he...model/chevelle



Hooker Headers..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...model/chevelle

[cubber]

Hedman part #69010, JEGS

[NewType72]

Those fit the description perfect but as for quality do they hold up? Also is the price low because of them being uncoated? Also a stickler for closely matching headers side to side if there is such a thing. I know I know I'm too picky
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[NewType72]

Ttt

[cubber]

The headers are available with and without coating, they are similar side to side, but with shorty's the can't be identical because of the shifter linkage. They are holding up well so far, Hedman has a good reputation.

[NewType72]

Right I'm only seeing coated so far and I'm debating if I really want shiny under the good but I guess a little couldn't hurt. As far as symmetry these are the closest I've found side to side. I know they can't be exact but good reputation helps. Hedman was another option probably my 2nd if I don't go with thorleys
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[cubber]

i think the thorleys are good, but overpriced. Its all opinion. Get the best you can afford, and most likely you won't regret it.