Need specific help on gas tank etc.

[1971Stepside]

I am strongly leaning toward the 87 - 90 Jeep Wrangler tank. I do not want to modify my frame rails at all since I am powder coated already. I like the price of this tank over the Boyds tanks or other custom tanks. I think I am fine with a bed fill although I am concerned about the 1" fill tube on these tanks.

I have the non return LQ4. I have searched this forum and read most all the posts on the gas tank swaps. I still don't know what parts I need. It looks like I'm saving money on the tank, but after I buy or modify what it takes am I really saving money?

I need a tank. I need a sender. I need a fuel pump. I need fuel line. What else? Does anyone have specific parts they used in the Wrangler tank that work with their LS motor? Obviously, pictures of this set up in a 67 - 72 would be ideal. Thank you,

[Tork?]

Check out tanks inc. they have rear mount tanks with drop in fuel bucket and the correct sender. You can order line from them too.

[LH Lead-Foot]

I have seen many the place the filler tech in the bed, but had a tank for an 84 El Camino handed to me new. It is side fill and with some experimenting, came up with a side fill on drivers rear quarter using a Volvo lid & grommet fro mid 90's 700 series sedan. I welded to heavy 1" square tubes to gather and the tank sit's flush on the bottom of the frame. Doesn't stick down at all to be seen. 3" sender allowed me to modify sender with ACDelco EP339 and bucket to bottom reference the pump. My 4 year old Dell shorts out, but should get all photos back from during the build, but took more photos to see what it looks like. The bed wall is only 2" thick, so I borrowed the kids 80's S10 cover idea to access fill piping. The lid looks period correct as it is reticular / boxy and almost looks like it belongs. I use an air power flanger to off-set the metal to weld in the filler cap donor. I am sure some questions will come up, but just look at photos and drawings. Yep, prepped for 5.3L LS truck engine and 4L60 and I am using stock metal lines, filters, pump and clamps.

[1971Stepside]

Lead Foot, do you have any pics of your tank mounted in the frame? Good info above.

[1971Stepside]

Check out tanks inc. they have rear mount tanks with drop in fuel bucket and the correct sender. You can order line from them too.

I really like the Tanks Inc universal tank, but it measures 27-3/4" x 17-3/4" x 8-1/2" My frame only allows 17" due the cross members. I cannot move my cross members since it all is powder coated. I never thought finding a tank would be hard or I would have left the rear most member off when powder coating.

[LH Lead-Foot]

The tank's top is flush to the bottom of the frame. I will try to get some more photos. Wish I had the photo's from during the build.
Yeh, They sell tanks that fit within the frame, but there is very little room above.The hand drawing was from memory that shown the cut / notch in the cross-member to clear the vapor well at the top of the tank. It is in these photos. Hey, wait...It got dirty under there. WWWWWHAT!
I just happened to have this new tank given to me by my son at the time.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Volvo filler cover, spring, metal and grommet fits OEM filler perfect, plus it has that cute little drain hole at the bottom...if you spill at little gas.

[RedRider]

Subscribed, considering the wrangler tank as well. I like your approach Lead-Foot

[LH Lead-Foot]

A quick review of my fuel tank install.
The tank was free and new, had the OEM filler neck, heavy wall square tubing sitting in metal scrap bin (Doubled-Up, Welded full length) {Math, 22 gallons at 8 lbs. per gallon = 176 lbs. Plus weight of tank}. Safety first, more strength than needed. Notch into frame cross-member, weld in front & rear, add tank strap hanger fittings from scrap pile...Free!

Three hours in bone yard looking at hundreds of gas covers $8, floor jack to hold tank in position for temp engineering, scrap length of filler neck rubber hose in bottom of tool box, worn clamps cost $3, MIG welder new in 1980, so paid for, air flange tool from Harbor Freight $18...

Fill the tank thru the bed side on the cheap that looks factory...Priceless!
Farm boy does good!

Guys at gas station flock to the truck and ask dozens of questions. It is amazing, but living here in Omaha, there's a lot of farm boys from KS., IA., SD., MO., who work in town.
They all say; "Dad had one, my Uncle or Grandpa had one" Yes the memories flood back for hundreds. I do smile a little to help make their day.

[michael bustamante]

I did the wrangler tank, haven't run it yet but it is installed, you have to use the sender unit from an 87 blazer. bolts right in. theres a lot of side space left over from using the wrangler tank as its only 15 gallons. I also just purchased the fuel line stuff online. also got cheaper fuel line components from e bay and cant use them! there is absolutely no room for the metal braided part. go with summit on these. lesson learned!
you will also HAVE to trim the cross rail on the bed for clearance of the lines to the sender unit. as for the pump, I don't remember the part number but a GM one is probably best. and it sits right in the sender, do a search on this thread as that's where I got all my info. the 1 inch neck, I don't see that being a problem so far except that all the filler necks I find are larger meaning ill have to fab some sort of adaptor to fit a 1 inch fuel line to a larger diameter filler neck

[Flubyu]

Fuel pump is a EP381, and yes-fits perfectly and has same wiring connector as Blazer sender. Anyone have a part # for the connector that plugs into the Blazer sender?

[LH Lead-Foot]

I am slightly confused about which connector you need, but a check using Rock Auto may show it. The ACDeclo.com website has electrical connector search feature, using number of terminals, scroll thru to find the one you need. Are you connecting the vehicles harness to the sender?
Should be square, but newer ones using the MRA type pump assembly update from square 150 metric pack to 280 metric-pack rectangular to handle burn't terminals.
Sorry, I just seen a couple thousand of these over the years and they all melt together in my mind. I remember more about the 76 Kiss concert in KC and the April 77 Star Wars movie I saw without knowing what it was before I walked in.

[Flubyu]

The one on the left in this pic

[dec010974]

hello to all. I used the jeep wrangler tank, with fuel pump EP381, 6AN braided line, fuel sending unit, 6AN weld on bungs, the orginal fuel spout with original fuel hose, and I'm happy I did it. no lsx swap was easier. I took it for a test drive and it performed great. I need more test hours but I couldn't be happier. for all, save your money used it. you'll be happy you did it. ill try to post pics. I was unsuccessful last time. I provided a user, board member with pics but I cant remember who I gave them to.

[dec010974]

it worked more pics.

[dec010974]

excuse my garage. I cant afford to throw anything away until I'm driving this truck, lol.

[cebra]

I have the same setup as dec010974 with the Wrangler tank, the 1" fill hasn't been a problem for me. Definitely slower to fill but not ridiculous. I have a 92-93 S10 sender, looks exactly the same as that 87 Blazer one with threaded ends on the feed/return. Works for EP381 and the C10 fuel gauge. Easy install, cheap, baffled, tucks up nicely, all good in my book.

[1971Stepside]

Does the bed cross member hit your fuel pump/lines? In the pics above it looks like the cross bar would hit (it has been cut out in the pictures). Also, would it be possible to have the neck moved to the top of the tank and enlarged?

[LH Lead-Foot]

Have a small filler tube can result in slower re-fueling as stated, but I find many techs who are building or swapping, just creating something new, do not route hose correctly.
It equipped with a vent tube at the top of the filler neck, it has to be routed up high under the fender to keep raw fuel from entering the canister. I use the purge program only, to capture and use the fumes of fuel that I paid for.

So, look that the photos below. First is routing, second show factory "Over-Fill" protection device also called "roll-Over" valve.
It shows an over-fill protection device inside the tank. Many sell one that can be installed outside the tank if you are building something new. It also helps with filling because a liquid fill the tank, vapor has to go somewhere.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Does the bed cross member hit your fuel pump/lines? In the pics above it looks like the cross bar would hit (it has been cut out in the pictures). Also, would it be possible to have the neck moved to the top of the tank and enlarged?

I cut my crossmember to tuck the tank up further, depends on how low you want your tank to hang (you can put spacers to lower the tank where it bolts up on the 4 corners; side note I ran a single strap across the middle too...probably overkill). My tank is about 1" from the bed floor so even if you welded the neck/vent directly to the top it would drop it down quite a bit. The Wrangler filler neck is tiny and is still about 5" long.

[EagleChief]

Reviving an old thread...

How did you all mount the filler neck, or where did you run it, for your Wrangler tanks? I'm trying to figure that part out and it's holding me up before I get my tank mounted.